SOUTHERN SPAIN HOTELS

ANDALUCIA • MURCIA • VALENCIA CANARY ISLANDS • BALEARIC ISLANDS

 JUST A FEW KILOMETRES Jfrom the busy coast of Southern Spain and into the hills of Andalucia, is some of the country’s most beautiful scenery – rolling hills, chestnut forests, olive and citrus groves. In this region, there are a number of handpicked hotels, some occupying historic buildings such as converted convents, others in airy modern houses. The fine cities of the South – Granada, Córdoba and Seville – all have small gems of hotels. Further north, in Alicante, hard by the concrete blocks of the Costa Blanca, is a hotel in Europe’s largest palm grove. In the Balearic and Canary Islands, away from the tourist track, are some of the least spoilt settings for some of the most desirable hotels.

ANTEQUERA

Parador de Antequera A hotel that provides pampering for lovers of modern design, with lush gardens that soften the severe lines of the whitepainted building. The spacious, light interior is decorated in pale shades with a predominance of wood and a welcome scattering of comfy leather chairs. The restaurant offers traditional dishes. N29200 Antequera, Málaga.

ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA

Cortijo Faín Near Arcos de Frontera, a clifftop White Town teetering over the Guadalete valley, this delightful Andalusian manor is set with its gardens in the centre of a huge olive grove. The warmly furnished rooms of varying sizes have iron or brass bedsteads, and the calm public areas and library are dotted with paintings and antiques. Carretera de Algar km 3, 11630 Arcos de la Frontera, Cádiz.

ALCALÁ DE GUADAIRA

Oromana This fine white house on the outskirts of Seville contains lofty communal rooms, a cosy bar and cool, pale bedrooms. Friendly staff. Avenida Portugal s/n, 41500 Alcalá de Guadaira, Seville.

ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA

El Convento Former convent in the heart of historic Arcos. Good regional cooking, fine views of the Guadalete valley. Maldonado 2, 11630 Arcos de la Frontera, Cádiz.

Parador Casa del Corregidor An old magistrate’s house with a spectacular clifftop setting and two terraces that take advantage of the vista. Plaza de España or del Cabildo, 11630 Cádiz.

ARCHENA

Termas Flamboyant plasterwork, domes and arches decorate this comfortable spa hotel. Balneario de Archena, 30600 Archena, Murcia.

Hacienda El Santiscal This delightful restored 15th-century manor house is within sight of the white city of Arcos and has sweeping views out over the Arcos lake and the Santiscal mountains. The impressive list of local outings, activities and expeditions on offer ranges from horse-riding to sherry tasting. Avenida El Santiscal 129, 11630 Arcos de la Frontera

La Palma Romántica For keen stargazers, there’s an observatory at this well-equipped Canary Island hotel, set between mountains and sea. It’s worth negotiating the twisting road to this side of La Palma for the glorious scenery, wildlife and silence. Rooms are large; all have a balcony, and some suites have a jacuzzi. A welcoming place. Las Llanadas s/n, 38726 Barlovento, La Palma.

Hospedería Fuentenueva The building’s colourful history includes years as a women’s prison, then as home to a judge. Now a lively, unconventional hotel, it is managed by a cooperative of five enthusiastic young people. The pleasing rooms retain their Moorish heritage; the public ones are often used for art exhibitions. Paseo Arca del Agua s/n, 23440 Baeza, Jaén.

Molino del Santo Not far from Ronda, where you can watch kestrels soaring below you, is a delightful mill on a scented mountainside. Converted by the English owner-managers, it makes a glorious hideaway. The rooms are simply and comfortably furnished; most have terraces overlooking the beautiful pool. Barriada Estación s/n, 29370 Benaoján, Málaga.

Ses Rotges This captivating pink house is Frenchrun and boasts one of the island’s most highly regarded restaurants. Rafael Blanes 21, 07590 Cala Ratjada, Mallorca.

Hotel Rural Monnaber Nou This country hotel looks out over hillsides. Facilities are first-rate. Possessió Monnaber Nou, 07310 Campanet, Mallorca.

Cala Sant Vicenç A handsome, well-run hotel on the north coast, with two restaurants. Maressers 2, 07469 Cala Sant Vicenç, Mallorca.

Hotel de la Perdiz This beamed hotel has the air of a hunting lodge: hunting trophies, huge hearths and solid furniture. Pretty garden. Carretera N IV, 23200 La Carolina, Jaén.

Scott’s HOTEL The discreet plaque outside this elegant English-owned merchant’s house on the main square only hints at the unobtrusive luxury inside. It’s meticulously decorated and furnished, the flowers are fresh, the beds a dream, and you can always find a quiet corner to yourself. Breakfast is to die for. Children over 12 only. Plaza de la Iglesia 12, 07350 Binissalem, Mallorca.

Hacienda de San Rafael A very special hotel in an old olive mill amid sunflower fields, its white walls clad in bougainvillea. The charming Anglo- Spanish owners have revamped the interior in stunning traditional style. Pool, riding, golf. Some rooms are air-conditioned. Apartado 28, Carretera Nacional IV, 41730 Las Cabezas de San Juan, Seville.

Villa Turística de Bubión Not a hotel but a complex of apartments, the Villa Turística consists of a cluster of low-rise houses built along traditional designs. Apartments are decorated with local textiles and ceramics, and each has a fireplace for chilly evenings. There is also a dining room/bar. Barrio Alto s/n, 18412Bubión, Granada.

Casa de Carmona A 16th-century palace in the heart of town, stylishly and faithfully restored, with opulent public rooms, a porticoed central patio and a delightful enclosed garden. The fabrics in the individual and well-equipped rooms set off the antiques. Outside, a shaded terrace gives a distant view of Seville. Top-class. Plaza de Lasso 1, 41410 Carmona, Seville.

Pensión Castells Friendly pension in a quiet mountain village. Guided walks, satisfying evening meals. San Vicente 18, 03793 Castell de Castells, Alicante.

Hospedería La Cartuja A haven of peace for artists who not only stay in this unusual, restored monastery, but also exhibit their work here. Carretera A-455 km 2.5, 41370 Cazalla de la Sierra, Seville.

Posada del Moro Julia Piñero has lavished love and attention on her appealing hotel, furnishing rooms with carefully chosen pieces and pictures. Paseo del Moro s/n, 41370 Cazalla de la Sierra, Seville.

Casa Convento La Almoraima A 17th-century hunting lodge built by the dukes of Medinaceli, this country house hotel has a fine rural setting. Finca La Almoraima, 11350 Castellar de la Frontera, Cádiz.

Parador Alcazár del Rey Don Pedro The original hilltop Moorish fortress was made into a palace for Don Pedro the Cruel. It is now an unashamedly efficient commercial hotel, making the most of the stupendous view. The large public rooms are decorated with suits of armour and tapestry wallhangings. Alcázar, 41410 Carmona, Seville.

Alfaros HOtel Córdoba was the Moorish capital and this large, well-appointed hotel reflects its mixed heritage in an otherwise modern décor. All its rooms are light and airy, the services are up-todate and efficient, and the swimming pool is wonderful. Don’t miss seeing the Mezquita, the mosque-cathedral, which is simply stunning. Alfaros 18, 14001 Córdoba.

Las Navezuelas In a broad valley in the hills north of Seville is this converted old olive mill, set on a large farm in a UNESCO biosphere reserve. It’s a simple place, with a warm welcome, excellent home cooking and spotless rooms. There are cattle, sheep and goats on the farm, deer and wild boar in the woods and fish in the river. Apartado 14, 41370 Cazalla de la Sierra, Seville.

Amistad Córdoba In the Barrio de la Judería, the old Jewish quarter with a synagogue to rival Toledo’s, an opening in a Moorish wall reveals an excellent modern hotel. The public rooms are deliberately simple, with flashes of local colour. The sizeable bedrooms are more richly furnished and equipped. The service is impeccable. Plaza de Maimónides 3, 14004 Córdoba.

Parador de Cazorla This modern parador in the beautiful wooded landscape of the Sierra de Cazorla is based on a typical Andalusian cortijo. Sierra de Cazorla s/n, 23470 Cazorla, Jaén.

González Hotel In one of the Jewish quarter’s narrow streets, this hotel has a cool marble interior and Moorish arches leading to a pretty flowery patio. Manríquez 3, 14003 Córdoba.

El Conquistador A modern building designed in Moorish style. Bedrooms are elegant; those at the front have views of the Mezquita. Quiet patio. Magistral González Francés 15-17, 14003 Córdoba.

Rosa Parisian Michel Kessous has converted his modest pension into a fine villa with Florentine balconies. Some self-catering bungalows. Congre 3, Las Marinas, 03700 Denia, Alicante.

Parador de Córdoba High above the heat of the city is this parador, built from the ruins of the summer palace built for Abderramán I. This is where Europe’s first palm trees were grown. The building and decor are a fusion of Arabic and Andalusian, the rooms large and airy. The dining room is a showcase for regional dishes and wines. Avenida de la Arruzafa s/n, 14012 Córdoba.

Cortijo Puerto del Negro In the beautiful hills behind the Costa del Sol, this well-run countryhouse hotel provides an oasis away from the bustle. Rooms with terracotta floors and woodpanelled ceilings have appropriately rustic furnishings and restful colour schemes. Meals – Anglo-French affairs – are often served on the creeper-covered terrace. Apartado 25, 29480 Gaucín, Málaga.

La Residencia This creeper-clad 16th-century manor house, set by the unspoilt northwestern coast, is a delight. It’s surrounded by tiered gardens and woodland, and filled with antiques, bright rugs and modern art. The restaurant is one of the island’s best. Rooms vary in size. Own art gallery. Tennis coaching available. Son Canals s/n, 07179 Deiá, Mallorca.

Carmen de Santa Inés A beautiful old Arab house with a lovely patio is the setting for this small but perfectly formed bed and breakfast hotel, in the same ownership as the Palacio de Santa Inés (see page 320). Bedrooms are cool and airy. Those rooms that don’t have views of the Alhambra overlook a varied garden. Placeta de Porras 7, 18010 Granada.

Palau dels Osset y Miró In the remote El Maestrat area, this 17th-century house on the porticoed main square is an oasis of rural comfort. Plaza Mayor 16, 12310 Forcall, Castellón.

Hotel América Home from home with cheerful rooms done out in colourful fabrics. Some overlook the Alhambra gardens, others a pretty patio. Real de la Alhambra 53, 18009 Granada.

Rock Hotel Favoured by glitterati, this colonial-style hotel prides itself on its service. Stupendous views from its perch above the bay. 3 Europa Road, Gibraltar

Reina Cristina Hotel Poet and playwright García Lorca stayed in this refined 19th-century house with a glazed courtyard. Small but relaxing rooms. Tablas 4, 18002 Granada.

Palacio de Santa Inés It is as elegant as its smaller sister, the Carmen de Santa Inés (see page 319), but the ‘palace’ has dark caisson ceilings, a picture-lined gallery and a slightly grander air. There are also some amazing fresco fragments attributed to Alejandro Mayner, a disciple of Rafael. Substantial annexe recently added. Cuesta de Santa Inés 9, 18010 Granada.

Finca Buenvino Many people are drawn back to this family home in the Sierra de Aracena. Here, the air is pervaded with the scent of jasmin in summer and woodsmoke in winter. Rooms are very pretty and individual, there’s crystal and linen at dinner, and a pool with a seemingly endless view. Cottages with pools also available. Los Marines, 21208 Huelva.

Parador San Francisco This immensely popular 14th-century former convent in the Alhambra’s gardens is still a place of tranquillity. This is partly thanks to the superb views over the Generalife, the Albaicín and the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada. Inside, wooden saints stand in alcoves between finely furnished galleries. Book early. Real de la Alhambra, 18009 Granada

El Palacio Hotel At the top of a maze of steep streets lined with bougainvillea-clad houses, this classic mansion with an enclosed courtyard garden has been transformed into a paradise for film buffs. The bar has posters and other movie memorabilia, and every gorgeous room or suite is dedicated to a star – Garbo, Bogart, Monroe, James Dean. Calle de la Conquista 2, 07800 Ibiza.

Los Fenicios Hotel In one of the Costa del Sol’s least built-up resorts, this hotel stands out from the crowd for its unusual architecture and unique lift. Paseo Andrés Segovia, 18697 La Herradura, Granada.

Mamabel’s  Hotel Lovingly run by Isabel Aznar and Jean Marie Rath, both lovers of art and antiquities. Sea views from terraces; delicious food. Embajadores 5, 04638Mojácar, Almería.

Club Puerta del Sol Hotel Sporty types will enjoy the tennis, pool and gym; others will love the views and garden of this chic horseshoe-shaped hotel. Carretera Fuengirola-Mijas, 29650 Mijas, Málaga.

Swiss Hotel Moraira Exclusivity is the byword at this estate of smart villas set back from the sea. Lavish rooms, large pool. Urbanización Club Moraira, 03724, Alicante.

Parador Castillo de Santa Catalina This impressive hill-top fortress, of the same vintage and style as the Alhambra, now looks benignly over a pretty valley filled with olive trees. Most rooms share the view. Some furniture will excite 1960s fans, but there are also paintings and tapestries borrowed from the national collection. Castillo de Santa Catalina, 23001 Jaén.

Parador de Málaga-Gibralfaro The views are the prime asset of this parador, set in the peaceful gardens of the Gibralfaro far above the bustling port and summer heat of the city. Rooms are large and comfortable, with their own balconies. Summer dining is on a terrace and the bar, often busy with locals, serves excellent snacks. Monte de Gibralfaro, 29016 Málaga.

La Bobadilla Hotel Set like an Andalusian village in its own huge grove of olive trees and Spanish oak, this is a gem that sets the standards by which other hotels are measured. Rooms are large, lavish, and rich in marble, silk and wood. Extras include two pools, a Turkish bath, and two fine restaurants supplied from the organic farm. Finca La Bobadilla, 18300 Loja, Granada.

L’Hermitage Hotel In the mountainous interior of the island a 17th-century manor, cloister and new annexe cluster together amid citrus groves to form an appealing hotel. Rooms in the house have bags of character, those in the annexe have modern comforts. There are two snug lounges, a cosy bar, dining room and lovely terrace. Carretera Alaro–Bunyola, 07349 Orient, Mallorca.

Cardenal Ram Hotel Heavy furniture highlights the character of this 16th-century mansion with its gleaming wood floors, beams and stone arches. Cuesta Suñer 1, 12300 Morella, Castellón.

Refugio de Juanar Hotel A comfortable rustic refuge in Marbella’s wild hinterland, this hunting lodge offers snug rooms and robust regional cooking. Sierra Blanca, 29610 Ojén, Málaga.

Arco de San Juan Hotel The award-winning bold interior is tempered by fine antique furniture and a traditional façade. Near the cathedral. Plaza de Ceballos 10, 30003 Murcia.

Taray Hotel Bedrooms here are huge and modestly priced. Lovely garden of olives and orange trees, ideal walking and riding countryside beyond. Carretera Tablate-Albuñol, 18400 Orgiva, Granada.

Palacio Ca Sa Galesa Hotel This small, central 16th-century palacio offers stylish comfort with 20th-century amenities, and views of the bay and cathedral from its terrace. Oriental rugs dress wood floors and the comfy public rooms are set about with antiques. Indoor spa. Free tea is served every afternoon, sherry in the evening. Miramar 8, 07001 Palma de Mallorca.

Son Vida Hotel Ever since this 13th-century castle was turned into a luxury hotel in 1961, it has attracted the rich and famous, from Haile Selassie and Zsa Zsa Gabor to the Spanish royal family. Within the splendid building are all the facilities you would expect and more; outside is a glorious subtropical park and two golf courses. Raixa 2, 07013 Palma de Mallorca.

San Lorenzo Hotel Pass through a wrought-iron gate on an old town street and, with the discovery of this hidden place, leave the cares of the world behind. The rooms are large, light and elegant with stylish bathrooms to match; two have their own roof terrace. A French Art Deco bar and a bougainvillea-hung garden complete the escape. San Lorenzo 14, 07012 Palma de Mallorca.

Hospedería de San Francisco Hotel Bedrooms in this converted 15th-century Franciscan monastery are the former cells. They have few luxuries but plenty of character, bedspreads woven by nuns and hand-painted basins. There is a comfy sitting room, beamed bar and huge dining hall, though the summer venue for meals is the lovely cloister. Avenida Pío XII 35, 14700 Palma del Río, Córdoba.

Born Hotel This old mansion was originally the Marquis of Ferrandell’s town base. Magnificent staircase and chandeliers, palm-planted courtyard. Sant Jaume 3, 07012 Palma de Mallorca.

Formentor Hotel This ritzy hotel is set on a stunning promontory. Own beach and famous buffet lunch. Playas de Formentor, 07470 Port de Pollença, Mallorca.

Balneario Sierra Alhamilla Hotel Roman baths survive at this 18th-century spa hotel. Bedrooms are traditional, with arched ceilings and double doors. The tiled dining room is barrel-vaulted. 04259 Pechina, Almería.

Es Recó de Randa Hotel Old stone house in a peaceful village, now a restaurant with rooms. Ask for a bedroom with a view of the mountains. Font 13, 07629 Randa, Mallorca.

Mas de Pau Hotel A valley of olives and almonds in the Sierra de Aitana is the setting for this rural house. Part of its appeal is a gorgeous pool with glazed roof and wrap-around windows, that allows you to swim and admire the view all year. Staff are attentive and polite, but bedrooms are cramped – especially those on the second floor. Carretera Alcoi-Penáguila km 9, 03815 Penáguila, Alicante.

Monasterio San Miguel Hotel This large Baroque building was built in the 18th century by the Duke of Medinaceli to house the Clarisas Capuchinas order of nuns. It is now a smart, busy hotel with antique art and modern facilities. It is a popular venue for concerts and conferences – the former chapel can seat 600. Virgen de los Milagros 27, 11500 El Puerto de Santa María, Cádiz.

Villa Italia Hotel Built in the 1920s by an eccentric Italian for his lover, Villa Italia is now patronized by a steady stream of glitterati. Marble floors, linen sheets, stucco ceilings, round baths, Roman capitals, personal service and a host of other hand-made details keep them coming. If it’s all too much, retreat to the beautiful garden. Camino Sant Carles 13, 07157 Port d’Andratx, Mallorca.

Parador de Ronda Hotel Ronda is one of Spain’s most spectacularly situated cities and this purpose-built parador has an incomparable spot, teetering precipitously above the Tajo gorge. If you can, book a top-floor suite – they have balconies and spectacular views – and watch the birds at close range. The dining room has a solid reputation. Plaza de España s/n, 29400 Ronda, Málaga.

Husa Reina Victoria Hotel  The Reina Victoria enjoys a clifftop setting with matchless views. Jerez 25, 29400 Ronda, Málaga.

Posada de Palacio Hotel This unconventional, homely B&B occupies a fine house near the sherry bodegas in the old town. Stone-tiled courtyard. Caballeros 11, 11540 Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Cádiz.

Tartaneros Hotel An inviting cafeteria in Art Nouveau style occupies most of the ground floor, while antiques and curiosities furnish the other rooms. Tartaneros 8, 11540 Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Cádiz.

Los Helechos Hotel This early 20th-century Andalusian building has quiet rooms that provide a refuge in a central location. Pool under construction. Plaza Madre de Dios 9.

Hacienda Na Xamena Hotel The focal point of this glamorous clifftop hacienda is its terrace and pool overlooking sea and pine-wooded hills. Inside, dazzling white curved walls are offset with touches of vivid blue, terracotta, stone and wood to create a haven of understated luxury. Na Xamena, 07815 San Miguel, Ibiza.

Hacienda Benazuza El Bullihotel Unlike many other large hotels, this hacienda has not sacrificed its soul. The buildings span diverse cultures and centuries, from the thousand-yearold Arabic enclosing wall to a 16th-century Spanish coat of arms. Public rooms have Moorish ceilings. Three-star Michelin chef in residence. Virgen de las Nieves s/n, 41800 Sanlúcar La Mayor, Seville.

Parador de La Gomera Hotel High above the main town of this volcanic island, where Columbus made his last stop before America, the parador is full of maritime mementoes. The decoration is exemplary: polished wood floors, rugs, potted plants, pitched beamed roofs, and furniture that gleams in the spacious bedrooms. 38800 San Sebastián de La Gomera, Santa Cruz de Tenerife.

Les Terrasses  Hotel A traditional Ibizan house, done out with panache by a Frenchwoman, Françoise Pialoux. The house, bedrooms (in a converted farm building), two pools and gardens are on different levels. Peaceful nooks and crannies give it the intimacy of a private villa. Apartado 1235, Carretera de Santa Eulalia, 07800 Santa Eulalia del Río, Ibiza.

Pikes Ibiza Hotel Its setting amid pine woods draws a smart crowd to this stylish finca. Five-star amenities are combined with informality. Aptdo 104, 07820 Sant Antonio de Portmany, Ibiza

Casa Imperial Hotel Arranged around four peaceful courtyards, Seville’s most palatial mansion hotel has comfortable suites with their own kitchens. Imperial 29, 41003 Seville.

Alfonso XIII Hotel Sumptuous mock Moorish palace. Exotic gardens without, grand rooms and formal service within. San Fernando 2, 41004 Seville.

Casas de la Judería Hotel Suites (some self-catering), separated by courtyards. Pool due in 2004. Callejón Dos Hermanas 7, Plaza de Santa María la Blanca, 41004 Seville.

SEVILLE Doña María Hotel A brand new hotel behind an old façade, with Andalusian decoration, a glorious patio overflowing with plants and a rooftop pool. Don Remondo 19, 41004 Seville.

Los Seises Art Deco motifs inject style into elegant pastel rooms in this 16th-century palace which preserves a Roman mosaic and Arab well. Segovias 6, 41004 Seville.

Murillo Hotel A treasure trove of antiques, from ornate screens to a sedan chair, in a handsome town house at the heart of the Barrio de Santa Cruz. Lope de Rueda 7 & 9, 41004

Finca Ca N’aí Hotel Captivating old Mallorcan house, nestling in a valley scented with the fragrance of oranges. Popular for its first-rate restaurant. Camí Son Sales 50, 07100 Sóller, Mallorca.

El Lodge Hotel After a long day on the piste, you can ski to the door of this modern chalet and relax in a Jacuzzi bath with a view of the surrounding peaks. It is one of Spain’s premier ski hotels, built of Finnish pine, warm and soundproofed, with a comfy sitting room, a bar flaunting ski mementoes and snug log-cabin-style bedrooms. Maribel 8, 18196 Sierra Nevada, Granada.

Finca Listonero Hotel Restaurateurs Graeme Gibson and David Rice run this farmhouse in the hills above the unspoilt Almería coast. It has been stylishly converted and seamlessly extended, and functions along house-party lines. The setting is peaceful but sandy beaches, golf, tennis, riding and walking are all within easy reach. Daily menu of international dishes. Cortijo Grande, 04630 Turre, Almería.

Hurricane Hotel Winds from the Straits of Gibraltar make Tarifa a great spot for windsurfing, the main attraction of this hip, casual place. Enclosed by a wild palm-filled garden, it has a romantic terrace, where dinner is served under Moorish arches. Ask for one of the simple, tasteful rooms on the garden side. Carretera Málaga–Cádiz, 11380 Tarifa, Cádiz.

Palacio de la Rambla Hotel This 16th-century mansion in the centre of town, ancestral home of the Marquesa de la Rambla, makes a unique, historic B&B. At its heart is a beautiful ivy-clad Renaissance patio, around which are the four most interesting bedrooms, furnished with antiques and engravings. Plaza del Marqués 1, 23400 Úbeda, Jaén.