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DORDOGNE AND AQUITAINE • MASSIF CENTRAL • PYRÉNÉES LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON • PROVENCE-CÔTE D’AZUR
THE DORDOGNE and the Lot, the fertile valleys in the southwest, are popular holiday spots. They offer a wealth of attractive small hotels and B&Bs in old mills, stables, manors and farmhouses. Further west is Bordeaux, with its incomparable vineyards, and the tree-bordered beaches of the Landes. The Massif Central, arguably the least spoilt part of France, has a range of hotels, from farmsteads and chalets to medieval stone-built inns and elegant restaurants with rooms. Many are very good value for money. To the southeast of the region, in Provence, whitewashed walls and tiled roofs, and shady courtyards with wrought-iron furniture, are typical.
Mas d’Entremont
A cool courtyard lies at the heart of the hotel, a cluster of low, modern buildings. Their red roofs were constructed from old materials, giving them a softer, more rustic look. Wood pillars and beams abound in both the public rooms and the bedrooms, which are furnished with country pieces. Montée d’Avignon, 13090 Aix-en-Provence.
Villa Gallici
From the terrace with its deepcushioned seats shaded by plane trees, to the glamorous bedrooms with fabric-draped beds, the villa is perfect – interior-decorated to the last tieback. Perhaps it’s a little too perfect to put you completely at ease, but the restaurant excels. Avenue de la Violette, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône.
Hôtel des Quatre Dauphins
Painted furniture graces the reception room and simple, tasteful bedrooms in this good-value maison bourgeoise. 54 rue Roux Alphéran, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône
Le Logis du Guetteur
From the outside the 11th-century fort has barely changed; inside, calm modern rooms enjoy incomparable views. Place du Château, 83460 Les Arcs, Var
AJACCIO CORSICA – Hôtel Dolce Vita
The glossy hotel has an acclaimed restaurant specializing in fish, and a glorious covered dining terrace. Route des Sanguinaires, 20000 Ajaccio, Corse-du-Sud.
Le Cottage
Seaside hotel with pleasant garden and pool. Simple bedrooms, most with balconies. 21 rue Arthur Rimbaud, 66703 Argelès-sur-Mer, Pyrénées-Orientales
Les Frênes
Comfort and good taste prevail at Les Frênes with its immaculate shuttered cream façade, tree-fringed pool and pastel-coloured bedrooms. Some are in outbuildings, scattered through the park in which the main house stands four-square. Provençal dishes crowd the menu. 645 avenue des Vertes-Rives, 84140 Avignon- Montfavet, Vaucluse
L’Oustau de Baumanière
The hotel makes the most of its splendid position high in the craggy Alpilles. You can swim with a view in the glorious pool, almost carved out of rock, and eat with one too on the panoramic terrace; the food is first-class. A few of the bedrooms are baronial, all are well-equipped. 13520 Les Baux-de-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône.
Auberge de la Benvengudo
With its shuttered façade almost hidden by creepers, the auberge gives the impression of being much older than its 20-odd years. A large garden and swimming pool, prepossessing bedrooms, and a snug salon make this a most inviting choice. Vallon de l’Arcoule, 13520 Les Baux-de-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône.
Le Chatenet
The Laxtons’ dog may bound out to greet you at this friendly B&B. A fine, low stone manor tucked away from the hurly-burly down a country track off the main riverside road, its interior is graciously but comfortably furnished. In the garden, deckchairs are placed temptingly in shady spots. 24310 Brantôme, Dordogne.
Hôtel Marie d’Agoult
Once home to Franz Liszt’s mistress, now a civilized and secluded retreat. Château d’Arpaillargues, Arpaillargues, 30700 Uzès, Gard.
Hôtel Chilo
A village hotel with views of the countryside that has been in the same family for three generations. Outstanding food; pool. 64130 Barcus, Pyrénées-Atlantiques.
Auberge de Concasty
Cheerful house and lawns on a family farm. Build up an appetite in the pool: Martine Causse’s delicious local dishes are filling. 15600 Boissot, Cantal.
Moulin de l’Abbaye
Its riverside situation makes this delectable former mill a magical place. A superb outlook across the Dronne river to the old town is shared by the flowery terrace and some of the smart, variously styled bedrooms. Housekeeping is flawless, the Michelin-starred food imaginative and the staff courteous. 1 route de Bourdeilles, 24310 Brantôme, Dordogne.
Auberge Relais de la Signoria
Candlelit dinner on the palm-shaded terrace by the seductive pool is one of the joys of staying here, a simple but stylish 17th-century house with an exotic garden. If you can, opt for a room in the main house not the annexe. Route de la Fôret de Bonifato, 20260 Calvi, Haute-Corse.
Manoir de Bellerive
This calm, handsome manor overlooking the Dordogne was renovated by interior designers, who created some striking paint effects and stylish rooms. A magnificent colonnaded entrance has an elegant double staircase. Set in private parkland. Route de Siorac, 24480 Le Buisson-de-Cadouin, Dordogne.
Hostellerie Fénelon
The little hotel, a cluster of red roofs and window boxes in a captivating village, represents excellent value for money. It’s not fancy, but the welcoming hostess, Mme Raynal, offers a warm welcome, good honest cooking and a little swimming pool, at low cost. In good weather, meals can be taken on the dining terrace. Friendly, unobtrusive staff. 46110 Carennac, Lot.
Auberge de l’Aiguebrun
A beautiful, tranquil hotel, full of light and colour, in a green oasis by a waterfall in the river Aiguebrun. First-rate food. Domaine de la Tour, RD 943, 84480 Bonnieux, Vaucluse.
Domaine d’Auriac
Golf, tennis and swimming are a few attractions of this plush country house. Fine dining on a splendid terrace. Route de St-Hilaire, 11009 Carcassonne, Aude.
L’Hostellerie du Prieuré
A chef from Maxim in Paris provides a fine Provençal table at this old hôtel-Dieu which retains all its original details. 84480 Bonnieux, Vaucluse.
Le Clos des Arômes
A 50-year-old hotel jazzed up by the young, hospitable Bonnets. Bedrooms are small but pretty; not all have bathrooms. 10 rue Paul Mouton, 13260 Cassis, Bouches-du-Rhône.
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