Turkey, the earthly location of epics such as The Aeneid, is at once foreign and enticing. It’s decidedly more popular these days, but fear not, the islands hold great deals.
The largest of the Princes Islands, Büyükada measures only two and a half miles by half a mile. Once a place of cushy exile, the island group garners its name from the princes and emperors forced to live there during the Byzantine period — notably Emperor Romanos IV Diogenes in 1071. Even now, life on Büyükada rolls by at a relaxed pace — often by bicycle or horse-drawn carriage — and the feeling is especially palpable at the Splendid Palace Hotel. Built in 1908, the hotel is itself a magnifi cent old relic located in the main village.
Large, domed and indeed splendid, it has 70 rooms and four suites, an outdoor pool and a restaurant in which you can order kebabs. Walk the hotel’s marble fl oors, paying close attention to the old photographs, and look out at the Sea of Marmara from your small terrace, letting your Turkish coffee warm your hands. Rates from $90, including breakfast. splendidhotel.net
Heybeli Ada, the second largest of the Princes, has recently been the topic of much-heated discussion regarding the opening of a Greek Orthodox seminary. There was once such a seminary on the island housed in modern buildings around the remains of a Byzantine monastery. You’d never guess, however, that anything on this petite island could ever be under debate: Cheery restaurants and cafés line the waterfront near the pier; people shop at open-air markets, and street vendors peddle their wares. The Merit Halki Palace — circa mid-1850s — sits like a grand old dame just a short walk from the oceanside. With brightly colored trim on the outside and extravagant décor within, it will surely appeal to anyone with a love of fi ner things, and yet won’t empty your pockets. Rates from $130. merithotels.com
We move away now from the land of the Princes to Sövalye Island, near the port town of Fethiye on Turkey’s Lycian coast. Sövalye has pine forests surrounding hiking trails, the ruins of a castle built by the Knights of St. John and many sandy coves. Run by the Aydins, Ece Boutique Hotel feels just like a family home. Each room has a sea view so, during the day, leave your windows open for the fresh breeze. In the evening, dine on the hotel’s terrace under grape vines and bougainvillea. Handan and Erdogan, the owners, are passionate about their little pansiyon and island, so ask for recommendations. You must paddle one of their canoes around the island. On a day when the waves are calm and the ocean clear, you will be able to see underwater ruins that date back to the late Roman period. Rates from $140, including breakfast. sovalyeisland.com
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