NORTHERN FRANCE HOTELS

NORMANDY • BRITTANY • PICARDY AND PAS-DE-CALAIS PARIS • CHAMPAGNE-ARDENNE • ALSACE-LORRAINE

NORTHERN FRANCE offers travellers an almost infinite array of choices in scenery and accommodation. The region stretches southwards from the plains of Picardy, through the apple orchards, lush countryside and converted mills of Normandy to rugged Brittany, with its austere granite chateaux and perfect seaside hotels for family holidays. Paris, at the heart of Northern France, is one of the most romantic cities in the world. It also boasts a large collection of very chic hotels. Pasde- Calais, the rolling countryside behind the Channel ports of Calais and Boulogne, is ideal for weekend breaks from Britain. Wine lovers with more time to spare can go further east to Champagne.

Château d’Agneaux

The rather austere exterior of this 13th-century château hides a comfortable hotel with attractive but not over-decorated rooms. Try for one in the turret. Though only just outside the town of Saint-Lô, this is a peaceful spot in hilly countryside. The restaurant serves fine food. Avenue Ste-Marie, 50180 St-Lô-Agneaux, Manche

La Chaîne d’Or

An unrivalled position in the shadow of the ghostly ruins of 12th-century Château Gaillard gives this homely 18th-century inn a romantic flavour. Excellent Norman cuisine is served in the charming timbered dining room. Books, paintings, a pretty courtyard and airy elegant bedrooms add to its charms. 25-27 rue Grande, 27700 Les Andelys, Eure.

Hostellerie des Trois Mousquetaires

Grandly furnished family-run hotel in a mock Tudor house. NChâteau du Fort de la Redoute, 62120 Aire-sur-la-Lys, Pas-de-Calais.

Château d’Audrieu

 Ancestral pile of the Livry- Level family, transformed into a Relais et Château with huge rooms and an impressive wine list. 14250 Audrieu, Calvados.

Auberge d’Artzenheim

Brimming with rustic charm, an inn with a cosy beamed restaurant. Summer dining on the flower-filled terrace. 30 rue du Sponeck, 68320 Artzenheim, Haut-Rhin.

Manoir du Lys

A geranium-bedecked hunting lodge with pool and Michelin-starred cuisine. La Croix Gauthier, Route de Juvigny, 61140 Bagnolesde- l’Orne, Orne.

Le Saint Pierre

An inviting stop in a picturepostcard village on the bank of the River Seine, an hour’s drive from Paris. Three of the six stylishly modern bedrooms overlook the river. Close by, a small car ferry saves the long drive to the nearest bridge. Recent change of management; the new chef and owner is M. Dejoy. 4 place du Bateau, 76530 La Bouille, Seine-Maritime

Le Dauphin

This lovingly restored former priory in the centre of Caen, a stone’s throw from William the Conqueror’s castle, has many fine features but one in particular that sets it apart: parking. Run by a lively husband-and-wife team, the atmosphere is welcoming, the rooms comfortable, and the (Norman) cuisine excellent. 29 rue Gémare, 14000 Caen, Calvados.

Château de Brélidy

Don’t be put off by the severe granite walls, which are typical of 16thcentury Breton architecture. Those who venture in will find a welcoming, family-run hotel, with relaxing bedrooms named after flowers. Added attractions are a billiard room, a Jacuzzi beneath an arbour in the garden, and an unspoilt setting. Brélidy, 22140 Bégard, Côtes-d’Armor.

Le Petit Coq aux Champs

 The large thatched house – mostly 19th-century with a modern extension – blends the rustic, chic and eccentric. It is tucked away among the rolling meadows and forests of the Risle valley. All the rooms are differently done out; some have balconies over the garden. Impressive cooking. La Pommeraie Sud, 27500 Campigny, Pont-Audemer, Eure.

Le Conquérant

Abundant ivy softens the grey granite façade of this manor house with a walled garden, fresh new bedrooms and a salon de thé. 16-18 rue St-Thomas Becket, 50760 Barfleur, Manche.

Auberge de l’Abbaye

Polished tiled floors and furniture, high-cholesterol cooking and heaps of atmosphere in a quintessential country inn. Le Bec-Hellouin, 27800 Brionne, Eure.

Hôtel d’Argouges

 Friendly, central yet quiet B&B in an 18th-century mansion with flower garden, dignified sitting room and a period feel. 21 rue St-Patrice, 14400 Bayeux, Calvados

Castel Clara

 Modern but tasteful retreat on this quiet island. Pricey but luxurious. Goulphar, Belle-Ile-en-Mer, 56360 Bangor, Morbihan

Hostellerie du Moulin du Vey

 This creeper-clad former water mill is in a stunning part of the Orne Valley at the heart of La Suisse Normande, within a short drive of Caen. In summer, local dishes are served on a riverbank terrace among the willows; in winter, in a barn of a restaurant. The simple bedrooms are all differently done out. Le Vey, 14570 Clécy, Calvados.

Château de Remaisnil

This lovely 18th-century house was once home to designer Laura Ashley, whose style still dominates the plush bedrooms. Now under new ownership, it reopens 1 July. Despite its vast grounds and rococo interior, it retains a homely feel. Nine cheaper rooms in the coach house will be ready in 2004. Remaisnil, 80600 Doullens, Picardie.

Château de Courcelles

 A 17th-century château where Racine and Napoleon laid their heads. The landscaped garden setting is magical, and the hotel strikes all the right chords: huge bedrooms enlivened by colourful fabrics, friendly staff, haute cuisine presented in an airy dining room, and a cellar of phenomenal champagnes. 02220 Courcelles-sur-Vesle, Aisne.

Domaine St Clair-Le Donjon

Perched on a hill above the cliffs of Etretat, is this ancient castle with historical associations. It has been elegantly converted with ten highly original bedrooms, and ten additional rooms in the newly refurbished 19th-century villa. Views from the romantic mirrored dining room are spectacular. Chemin de St Clair, 76790 Etretat, Seine-Maritime.

Le Clos Fleuri

Near the picturesque island port of Le Palais, simple but chic, with lawns, fresh bedrooms and a delicious daily brunch. Bellevue, Route de Sauzon, Belle-Ile-en-Mer, 56360 Le Palais, Morbihan.

Le Normandie

A good position on the Seine marks out this friendly and well maintained hotel. 19 Quai Guilbaud, 76490 Caudebec-en-Caux, Seine-Maritime.

Domaine de Rochevilaine

Cluster of buildings on rocky headland, filled with Breton antiques. Pointe de Pen Lan-Sud, 56190 Billiers, Morbihan.

Le Moulin de Connelles

Mill enjoying perfect Seine-side setting, mature park and plush interior. 40 route d’Amfreville-sur-les-Monts, 27430 Connelles, Eure.