Ireland

VISITING IRELAND is not just about historic sights, dramatic scenery, immersing yourself in great literary and musical traditions, or indulging in a pint or two of the Black Stuff (see under Food and Drink). It’s also about meeting the Irish people on their own turf. Their friendly welcome and easy-going way of life may be a well-worn cliché, but as anyone who has visited the Emerald Isle will tell you, it is very much the point of Ireland. An informal atmosphere and personal attention prevail in the plentiful guest-houses, farmhouses and small hotels dotted around Ireland, from traditional cottages in the West, to Georgian townhouses in Dublin.

IRELAND divides approximately into six regions.

Northern Ireland

In recent years ‘The Troubles’ have all but extinguished the Northern Irish overseas tourist economy. In reality, however, you are far safer here than in many other destinations. The countryside is striking: the lunar landscape of the legendary Giant’s Causeway, the nine green Glens of Antrim and the romantic Mountains of Mourne are the area’s three highlights.

Northern Ireland’s three principal cities, Belfast, Londonderry and Armagh (‘the spiritual capital of Ireland’), pack in a wealth of ancient and recent history.

The Northwest and West Ireland

The classic West of Ireland verdant valleys and hillscapes are to be found here, particularly in Counties Sligo, Mayo and Galway and the Connemara region. The lively city of Galway is a delight, as are the timeless Aran Islands. County Clare boasts the awesome Cliffs of Moher and the extraordinary limestone landscape of the Burren. Part of ‘the South’ in name only, dramatic windswept County Donegal is in fact Ireland’s northernmost point.

The Midlands

The least-known and visited part of the country comprises large tracts of farmland and bogland, small county towns and a number of historic sites. Perhaps chief of these is Clonmacnoise, which can claim to be Ireland’s most important monastic remains.

Dublin

Booming and bustling on a tide of high technology and tourism, the capital city has some top-notch hotels; from U2’s post-modern Clarence Hotel to the splendidly oldworld Shelbourne and some beautiful Georgian townhouses with every facility and comfort. You’ll pay a premium for the privilege of staying here, but it’s worthwhile.

The Southeast

Nestled amid the beautiful Wicklow Mountains are two of Ireland’s most memorable sights: the atmospheric ruined monastic settlement of Glendalough, and the gardens of Powerscourt. Counties Wexford and Kilkenny are also known for their medieval monastic settlements and the attractive historic towns of Waterford (world-famous for its glass) and Kilkenny.

The Southwest

The Dingle Peninsula is the greenest part of the Emerald Isle and is rich in ancient sites. Nearby, the equally breathtaking landscapes of the Ring of Kerry attract coach parties by the score. County Cork is the home of the Blarney Stone and the enjoyable little town of Cork.

FOOD AND DRINK

THE TRADITIONAL food of Ireland – simple fish and meat dishes with potatoes and root vegetables – has improved beyond recognition in recent years. The cooking has become lighter, healthier and more cosmopolitan – in fact, ‘New Irish’.

Old favourites include the ubiquitous Irish stew, a casserole of mutton or lamb and vegetables, and coddle, a mix of pork sausages, bacon, potato and onion. Champ is buttery mashed potatoes with scallions (spring onions). The Irish are also justifiably proud of their fish and shellfish. The full Irish breakfast is a national institution. Typically it comprises egg, sausage, bacon, black pudding (made from dried blood), tomatoes and toast. The Irish also eat heartily at lunch and dinner. The best genuine Irish food can be found in pubs. These are also often the most congenial and the cheapest places to eat, but quality can vary enormously.

Few visitors leave Ireland without sampling a drop of smooth, creamy Black Stuff, which is invariably Guinness, a stout or porter-style of beer which derives its distinct flavour and colour from roasted malt and barley and a high hop content. Guinness is always drunk chilled and is allowed to settle for a few minutes. The other national drink is Irish whiskey. This is smoother than Scotch (Scottish whisky) and lacks its smoky flavour. In the pub, asking for a beer by name will get you a pint. If you want a half-pint, ask for a ‘glass’ of your chosen beer.

BOOK WELL in advance for hotels in Dublin yearround and in other heavily visited spots. The rules of the road follow those of Great Britain: drive on the left, give way to the right. Road signs are often in both English and Gaelic, and it may be useful to remember that An Lár means town centre. Note too that old signs in miles and new signs in kilometers may (confusingly) both be in use.

Language in Ireland

Although Ireland is officially bilingual, English is the principal language. However, in the parts of Ireland known as the Gaeltacht (principally along the west coast), Gaelic is still the main language. In the remotest parts of the Gaeltacht, English may not be spoken at all.

Currency in Ireland

Republic of Ireland: from 1 January 2002, the European euro (‘EUR’), made up of 100 cents. Northern Ireland: the British pound.

Shops in Ireland

Generally open 9am–5:30 or 6pm, Mon–Sat. Smaller towns may have an early closing day, many towns have late shopping on Thursday and/or Friday. In towns and cities, supermarkets may open from noon to 6pm on Sundays.

Tipping in Ireland

Ireland is not a tip-conscious society. Where restaurants add a service charge there is no need to tip. Otherwise, round up the bill to around 10 per cent. A helpful taxi-driver will expect 10 per cent, and porters, tour guides and chambermaids are also usually tipped. If you want to show the bartender your appreciation, offer him or her a drink.

Telephoning in Ireland

To make calls inside the Republic of Ireland, dial the whole number, including the initial zero. To call the Irish Republic from the UK, dial 00 353 and omit the first zero; from the US, 011 353.

To call Northern Ireland from the UK, dial the number, including the first zero of the area code; from the US, dial 011 44, omitting the zero of the area code.

Public Holidays in Ireland

Republic of Ireland: 1 January; 17 March (St Patrick’s Day); Easter Monday; first Monday in May (May Holiday); first Monday in June (June Holiday); first Monday in August (August Holiday); last Monday in October; 25 and 26 December.