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CENTRAL ITALY
TUSCANY • UMBRIA LE MARCHE • ABRUZZO • LAZIO • SARDINIA
WITH THE CAPITAL , Rome, Wat its core, Central Italy contains a range of beautiful landscapes and towns rich in culture and history, including ancient palaces, churches and towers. Tuscany in particular offers a wealth of memorable hotels, ranging from hilltop hamlets converted for the purposes, to atmospheric pensioni in Florence and Siena. Umbria and the Marche offer some wonderful rural retreats in their gentle, pastoral countryside. The glossy island of Sardinia, included in this section, has plenty of luxury seaside haunts, plus a few simpler alternatives. If Rome is your destination, then the very best of hotels, from inexpensive to top-of-therange, are described here.
Hotel Capo Sud Island complex of little villas in a quiet spot with fine bay views. Rooms are modern and simple, scattered around the grounds. NLacona Elba I, 57031 Capoliveri.
Hotel Villa Ottone
Across the bay from Portoferraio, in leafy grounds close to the sea, is this polished hotel whose main building is an 18th-century villa. NOttone, 57037 Portoferraio, Elba, Livorno.
Hotel Bencistà
The Bencistà was built as a monastery in the 14th century and has polished tile floors, tall windows, gleaming furniture and an air of serenity, yet bills itself modestly as a pensione. Bedrooms have whitewashed walls and solid old furniture; some have glorious views over Florence and the Tuscan hills. A set menu is offered for dinner, which starts promptly at 7.30pm. Via B da Maiano 4, 50014 Fiesole.
Hotel Relais Il Falconiere
Owner Riccardo Baracchi was born in this small villa. His wife, Silvia, is also from the area and is the chef. Their excellent restaurant attracts diners from a wide area – the food really is special. Vaulted bedrooms are traditionally furnished. The pool overlooks a hillside of cypress trees and olives. NLocalità San Martino 370, 52044 Cortona, Arezzo.
VHotel illa San Michele
This villa was designed by Michelangelo, and if the antiques look as though they are from the 17th century that’s because they probably are. Grandeur and authenticity is San Michele’s hallmark. One of the many pleasures is taking breakfast in the loggia, looking across green hillsides to Florence below. Via Doccia 4, 50014 Fiesole.
Hotel Pardini’s Hermitage
Smartly modern island villa with balconied bedrooms, reached from Giglio Porto by boat, car, donkey or an hour’s walk. NCala degli Alberi, 58013 Giglio Porto, Grosseto.
Hotel Villa Montegranelli
A severe exterior contrasts with the light 18th-century style of the spacious public rooms. The villa is popular for functions. NMonteluiano, 06024 Gubbio, Perugia.
Hotel Villa Pasquini
Once the retreat of an aristocratic family, little has changed since the 19th-century. Via Vacchereccia 56, Margine Coperta, 51010 Massa e Cozzile, Pistoia.
Hotel Fattoria di Vibio
All is effortless simplicity and relaxed elegance at this 18th-century farmhouse. NLocalità Buchella-Doglio 9, 06057 Monte Castello di Vibio, Perugia.
Hotel Villa di Monte Solare
The Iannarones run this 18th-century villa hotel along houseparty lines, offering regional cuisine using fresh ingredients. They have restored the formal garden, and another ‘secret’ garden behind it. Some rooms are in the converted farmhouse with its own pool down the hill. Minimum stay three days. NLocalità Fontignano, 06070 Fontignano, Perugia.
Hotel Villa Lucia
Informal yet elegant farmhouse B&B run by Italian-American Lucia Vallera. Shady garden and terrace; small pool. Via dei Bronzoli 1443, 51015 Montevettolini, Pistoia.
Hotel Le Grotte di Boldrino
This former palazzo hewn into Panicale’s walls is small and intimate. The decor juxtaposes new with old. Via Virgilio Ceppari, 06064 Panicale, Perugia.
Hotel Brufani
The Brufani has recently undergone a serious expansion, including 55 new rooms, sauna, pool and gym. Stunning views as before. Piazza Italia 12, 06121 Perugia.
Hotel Villa Pambuffetti
A rose-pink brick villa located between Assisi and Perugia, with views of the Umbrian hills. Owners Alessandra and Mauro Angelucci have preserved the original 1920s’ interiors, decorated with Tiffany lamps and cane chairs; the bathrooms are in authentic period style but with modern plumbing and fittings. Via della Vittoria 20, 06036 Montefalco, Perugia.
Hotel Castello di Gargonza
The village, abandoned earlier this century, has now been turned into a place to stay. It’s not strictly a hotel (most accommodation is in the village houses let by the week), but the place is informal and good value. There are basic rooms for a one-night stop, with breakfast in the old oil-pressing house. NGargonza, 52048 Monte San Savino, Arezzo.
Hotel Palazzo Terranova
An imposing, classically proportioned country house commanding wide views over the Umbrian countryside. Lavishly restored by its English owners, Sarah and Johnny Townsend, with bedrooms named after Verdi operas. The whole house can be taken by one party. Attentive, professional service. NLoc Ronti, 06010 Morra, Perugia.
Hotel Borgo Paraelios
Immaculately executed country club-style hotel. Individually furnished rooms and suites are spread around gardens and courtyards. N02040 Poggio Catino, Rieti.
Hotel Santa Domitilla
On this alluring island, close to Chiaia di Luna beach and the pretty port. Via Panoramica, 04027 Isola di Ponza, Latina.
Hotel Royal Victoria
Original features at this dignified 1840s hotel include exquisite trompe l’oeil drapery. Rooms vary in size and style; all are fairly basic. NLungarno Pacinotti 12, 56126 Pisa.
Hotel La Posta Vecchia
The artworks and antiques in this seaside mansion, lapped by the Tyrrhenian sea, were chosen by former owner John Paul Getty. It is probably Italy’s most remarkable hotel. During building work, the foundations of a Roman villa were discovered; they can now be viewed through glass panels in the floor. N00055 Palo Laziale, Ladispoli.
Hotel Villa Serena
There’s no haughtiness at the villa of the Pinto family – or to give them their full title, the counts Pinto de Franca y Vergaes. The polished interior with its old master paintings exudes simplicity and calm, and good food is served in a down-to-earth atmosphere. Bedrooms range from antique-packed to faded gentility. Via San Nicola 6/3, 61100 Pesaro.
Hotel Villa Vannini
This part of Tuscany has relatively few great places to stay, so this attractive villa is particularly welcome. It is managed by the welcoming Bordonaro family. The excellent cuisine is based on Tuscan specialities; pre-dinner drinks are served on the terrace under cedar trees. Bedrooms are furnished in floral fabrics and with good furniture. Villa di Piteccio 6, 51030 Pistoia.
Hotel Casetta delle Selve Nicla Menchi, the characterful owner of this elevated farmhouse B&B, has created an interior stunningly different from the norm. Great breakfasts. N56010 Pugnano, San Giuliano Terme, Pisa
Alleluja Hotel
The most inviting of the exclusive hotels in this chic yachting-and-boutique town. Via del Porto, 58040 Punta Ala, Grosseto.
Hotel Emilia
At this modest clifftop villa a short drive from the small resort of Portonovo, rooms are angled so that most have a sea view. Inside are some stupendous wall coverings – an illustrious band of 20th-century artists have paid for a stay here by donating a work. The food is very good, with fish a speciality. Via Poggio 149a, 60020 Portonovo, Ancona.
Hotel 2 Pellicano
his terracotta villa by the sea combines the best of a luxury hotel (great service and fine seafood cuisine) with an easygoing atmosphere and contemporary decoration. There’s swimming off the flat rocks, and you don’t have to move from the poolside to choose from a huge array of antipasti. NCala dei Santi, 58, 58018 Porto Ercole, Grosseto.
Hotel Villa Rucellai
Potted lemon trees and clipped topiary characterize this country villa on the outskirts of industrial Prato. It has been in the Rucellai Piqué family since 1740 and is evidently a family home, but guests are free to use the grand hall and sitting room. Breakfast is taken at a communal table. Bedrooms are simple. Via di Canneto 16, 59100 Prato.
Hotel Villa Rigacci
A 15th-century hilltop farmhouse with ivy-covered façade, open fires in winter, and tiled, stone-flagged and archwayed interiors. It makes a great bolthole close to Florence (30km/ 23 miles away). Furniture is highly polished and antique; bedrooms are mostly spacious; and food is a mix of international and Italian cuisine. NVággio 76, 50066 Reggello.
Hotel Punta Rossa
Secluded setting above a rocky shore. Pleasant holiday hotel. Very large suites. Via delle Batterie 37, Quarto Caldo, 04017 San Felice Circeo, Latina
Hotel Villa Vignola
A small seaside hotel in a resort on the Abruzzo coast, with a big commitment to service. The decoration of the white clifftop villa has some Moorish influences though the style of bedrooms is a hybrid of Mediterranean and English country-house styles. The restaurant is strong on fish specialities. NVignola, 66054 Vasto Marina, Chieti.
Hotel Antico Casale
Captivating hotel in the coastal Maremma. Pretty bedrooms, terrace with views over a green, unspoilt valley. Riding offered. NCastagneta, 58054 Scansano, Grosseto.
Hotel Villa Nencini
Old-fashioned stone country hotel on the edge of town. Some rooms are cramped. NBorgo Santo Stefano 55, 56048 Volterra, Pisa.
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