CENTRAL FRANCE HOTELS

LOIRE VALLEY • POITOU-CHARENTES • LIMOUSIN • AUVERGNE BOURGOGNE • FRANCHE-COMTÉ • RHÔNE-ALPES

THE CHATEAU-HOTEL comes into its own in the Loire Valley. Although it is possible to stay in castles all over Europe, there is a special charm about sleeping in a fairytale French Renaissance chateau with its turrets, steep roofs, dormer windows, formal garden and park. But there are chateau-hotels in other regions of Central France, such as the Limousin and Périgord.

Many are old, solid bourgeois residences, flat-fronted, shuttered mansions with mansard roofs. There are also converted mills, and country and village inns full of character. To the east, in the upland regions of the Jura and Alp mountains, chalet-style hotels with steeply sloping roofs, shutters and wooden balconies, are prevalent.

Villa Louise

On the edge of a village that is a Mecca for lovers of white wine, is this low 17thcentury house. Inside, original timberwork and fireplaces are offset with an avant-garde interior and Art Deco furnishings. The tasteful bedrooms have swish bathrooms; breakfast is a feast of cheese, eggs and fruit. 9 rue Franche, 21420 Aloxe-Corton, Côte-d’Or.

Parc des Maréchaux

The best bedrooms are those looking on to the park from which the hotel takes its name, though all are spacious, in restful colours and furnished traditionally with wooden beds and antique chests. A large, dignified townhouse, it makes an exceedingly upmarket yet value-for-money B&B. 6 avenue Foch, 89000 Auxerre, Yonne.

Château de Pray

The 13th-century fortress is well placed to visit some of the great chateaux. Splendid vantage point above the Loire. 37400 Amboise, Indre-et-Loire.

L’Abbaye

Idiosyncratic abbey hotel in a suburb, with a stunning vaulted restaurant. 15 chemin de l’Abbaye, 74940 Annecy-le-Vieux, Haute- Savoie.

Le Relais du Lyon d’Or

In a contender for the prettiest village in France, a former royal tythe depot with terracotta floors and wooden beams. 4 rue d’Enfer, 86260 Angles sur l’Anglin, Vienne.

Château de Bagnols

Restored medieval fortress with sumptuous, frescoed rooms. Devotées claim it’s worth every centime. Outdoor pool. 69620 Bagnols, Rhône.

Château de Vault de Lugny

From the moment you arrive at the iron gates of this elegant home, you feel like a guest at an exclusive house party. Peacocks wander on the lawn along the drive, and at the front door a butler relieves you of your bags. The decoration is tasteful and not too grand; guests dine at one single long table. 11 rue du Château, 89200 Avallon, Yonne.

Château de Noirieux

On the western reaches of the Loire château trail, this 17th-century manor house with 1920s additions eclipses all the local competition. Service is courteous with just the right amount of pampering. Rooms have stunning antiques, and the garden is shady and well-kept. 26 route du Moulin, 49125 Briollay, Maine et Loire.

Auberge du Moulin de Chaméron

A mixture of water-mill museum and restaurant in deep country. In summer, meals can be taken on the terrace by the mill stream. A swimming pool and wooded gardens amply make up for the comfortable but dull rooms in modern buildings across the garden. Bannegon, 18210 Charenton-du-Cher, Cher.

Hostellerie du Château de Bellecroix

A former command post of the Knights of Malta, this turreted, creeper-clad castle was built in the 12th century with 18th-century additions. Annexe rooms are larger than those in the chateau, though the ones in the turrets are fun. Route Nationale 6, 71150 Chagny, Saône-et-Loire.

L’Abbaye

The former Augustine convent, set by an old bridge across the Loire, now makes a fine hotel. Period rooms and fine cuisine. 2 quai de l’Abbaye, 45190 Beaugency, Loiret.

L’Hermitage

Owner-chef Claude Sureau runs a superior Logis de France, a small manor in a mature garden with a pavilion for summer dining. 36500 Buzançais, Indre.

Château de Challanges

The setting for this late 18th-century mansion is a park of lawns and paths, minutes from the historic city. Rue des Templiers, Challanges, 21200 Beaune, Côte-d’Or.

Hôtel Lameloise

One of the great restaurants (three Michelin stars) in a calm, shuttered house. 36 place d’Armes, 71150 Chagny, Saône-et-Loire.

Le Hameau Albert 1er

This refined reincarnation of the old Railway Hotel is now run by its founder’s grandson. The most luxurious rooms are in Les Fermes, converted farm buildings with their own restaurant. Pierre Carrier’s sublime cooking richly deserves its two Michelin stars. BP 55-119 impasse du Montenvers, 74402 Chamonix, Haute Savoie.

Château des Briottières

English parkland surrounds the de Valbray’s gracious family seat. The present young owners have opened their doors to guests, who find public rooms, furnished with family antiques and portraits, plus harmonious bedrooms. The de Valbrays join their guests for a pre-prandial drink. Mainly regional cuisine. 49330 Champigné, Maine-et-Loire.

Hôtel du Jeu de Paume

Parisian style arrives in the Alps with the opening of the sister hotel of the Ile St-Louis Jeu de Paume. It follows the lines of a classic chalet, with wood dominating inside and out. In winter the hotel lays on a car to take guests to the ski lifts. Dinner on their return is superb. 705 route du Chapeau, Le Lavancher, 74400 Chamonix, Haute-Savoie.

Moulin d’Hauterive

Rustic chic, bright, romantic bedrooms and the inventive cooking of owner Mme Moille make a stay at this large converted mill an unusual blend of rural seclusion and good living. In the large lawn behind are a little pool and tennis courts – and there’s even a heliport. Chaublanc, 71350 St-Gervais-en-Vallière, Saone et Loire.

Château de la Vérie

The beaches are just a short drive away from this lavishly furnished chateau. Route de St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, 85300 Challans, Vendée.

Hôtel de l’Ecluse

A row of cottages on a canal – contains seven colourful, modestly priced bedrooms, a country-style dining room and bar. 2 Chemin de Ronde, 89160 Chassignelles, Yonne.

Auberge du Bois Prin

Classic-style chalet, impeccably run. Great views and food. 69 chemin de l’Hermine, Les Moussoux, 74400 Chamonix, Haute-Savoie.

Hostellerie du Château

A 15th-century former presbytery in a medieval village. Quiet rooms. Châteauneuf, 21320 Pouilly-en-Auxois, Côte-d’Or.

La Croix Blanche de Sologne

The simple logis has a 200-year-old tradition of employing female chefs, and they have acquired a lofty reputation for their mainly Périgordian cuisine. The building dates back to 1424 and its rustic style is fitting: rooms are full of country antiques. 5 place de l’Eglise, 41600 Chaumont-sur-Tharonne, Loir-et-Cher

Hôtel Restaurant de Bourgogne

This 19thcentury town hotel has a very French provincial air about it, and delightfully old-fashioned bedrooms are arranged around a calm courtyard garden. The restaurant specializes in Burgundian dishes. Recent change of ownership; now in the hands of the Colin family. Place de l’Abbaye, 71250 Cluny, Saône-et-Loire.

Hôtel Diderot

This white-shuttered town house in a pleasant courtyard is run as a down-to-earth B&B. Some of the spotless, no-frills bedrooms have beams and fine views; some lead on to a terrace. Breakfasts are scrumptious, due to the hotel’s wonderful supply of home-made jams. Now under new management. 4 rue Buffon, 37500 Chinon, Indre-et-Loire.

Auberge des Chasseurs

This attractive converted farmhouse, situated at the foot of the Jura mountains, has been in the family of its owner, Dominique Lamy, since the mid-19th century. A Swedish decorator has freshened the interiors with a touch of Scandinavian paint magic. Satisfying food; pool; terrace; fine views over Lake Geneva to Mont Blanc. Naz Dessus, 01170 Echenevex, Ain.

Château du Breuil

Polished antiques in pale rooms and a sumptuous salon characterize this 18th-century chateau; vast parkland. Route de Fougères-sur-Bièvre, 41700 Cheverny, Loir-et-Cher.

Hostellerie Le Marais St-Jean

The Giradons’ farmhouse combines character with creature comforts; simple food and hordes of fans. Chonas-l’Amballan, 38121 Reventin-Vaugris, Isère.

Domaine de Clairefontaine

Simple rooms and a Michelin star for Philippe Giradon’s cuisine. Chonas-l’Amballan, 38121 Reventin-Vaugris, Isère.

Hôtellerie Beau Rivage

On the bank, or rivage, of the Rhône river; many rooms share the view. Friendly staff and Michelin-starred food. 2 rue du Beau Rivage, 69420 Condrieu, Rhône.

La Verniaz et ses Chalets

Nestled between Lake Geneva and the mountains in a mature tree- and flower-filled garden, an appealing hotel has been created from a clutch of old Alpine buildings. The dining room is dominated by a huge wood fire, over which meat and fish are cooked. Navenue D’Abondance, Neuvecelle-Eglise, 74500 Evian, Haute-Savoie.

Chalets Hôtel de la Croix-Fry

Enthusiasts return year after year, as a spell in this archetypal mountain chalet, built of dark wood, its terrace a sea of flowers, is a truly relaxing experience. The interior is simple and rustic, and it’s no hardship that a minimum of three nights is required. Route du Col de la Croix-Fry, 74230 Manigod, Thônes, Haute Savoie.

Château de Gilly

For Burgundy buffs, this stunning 14th-century Cistercian monastery in the heart of the Grands Crus will have irresistible appeal. Beautifully tended formal gardens set off the architecture, and the pale stone-vaulted dining room makes a magnificent setting for the gastronomic regional meals. Gilly-les-Cîteaux, 21640 Vougeot, Côte d’Or.

Hôtellerie du Val d’Or

This early 19th-century coaching inn in the wine village of Mercurey makes a pleasant contrast with the many formal and extremely expensive establishments of the region. Devotees come here to savour Jean- Claude Cogny’s Michelin-starred cooking; many return to stay in the neatly decorated bedrooms. 140 Grande Rue, 71640 Mercurey, Saône-et-Loire.

Hôtel Le Manassès

Strictly for lovers of Burgundy: the hotel is in a vineyard and there’s a wine museum in a barn. Bedrooms are modern, public rooms are furnished with antiques. 21220 Curtil-Vergy, Côte d’Or.

Hôtel Taillard

This hotel in the Jura, close to the Swiss border, is efficiently run. Comfy rooms, pretty garden, breakfast terrace. 25470 Goumois, Doubs.

Hôtel du Rivage

The hotel is contemporary and stylish, but the real draw is Christian Gaillard’s cuisine. Rooms at the front have the view. 1 Quai de Nice, 45500 Gien, Loiret.

Château d’Igé

The medieval castle comes close to perfection, with ivy-clad turrets and a flower garden. A huge hearth warms diners. 71960 Igé, Saône-et-Loire.

Les Magnolias

This old winegrower’s house in peaceful surroundings has been converted into a B&B with great flair and is owned by a genial half- English man. Antiques pepper communal rooms and bedrooms; the ones in the eaves, with dormer windows, are most appealing. On fine days the substantial breakfasts can be eaten in a courtyard. 8 rue Pierre Joigneaux, 21190 Meursault, Côte-d’Or.

Hostellerie Château Ste-Catherine

At the end of a long drive through verdant gardens, stands a severe-looking stone manor house built around 1800 for the Empress Joséphine. First impressions are not reinforced by the warmth and charm of the interior, where walls are hung with tapestries and fires blaze in the hearths. Route de Marthon, 16220 Montbron, Charente.

Domaine de la Tortinière

Its hillside position in vast grounds lends this fairytale castle panoramas over the Indre valley. Built in 1861 in Renaissance style, it is smartly furnished, and offers an impressive array of activities including boating, tennis and mountain biking. Route de Ballan-Miré – Les Gués de Veigné, 37250 Montbazon-en-Touraine, Indre-et-Loire.

Château-Hôtel de Nieuil François I’s former hunting lodge is a Renaissance castle with turrets, formal garden and magnificent rooms. But its charm lies in the warmth of the owners. The exuberant Monsieur Bodinaud manages a collection of fine cognacs. Madame used to be the chef, but has recently handed over that role. Route de Fontafie, 16270 Nieuil, Charente.

La Côte St-Jacques

On the banks of the Yonne river avant-garde decor is coupled with tip-top cuisine – three Michelin stars. 14 fbg de Paris, 89304 Joigny, Yonne.

Villa Florentine

A luxurious mix of Renaissance style with contemporary Italian design. 25 montée St-Barthélémy, 69005 Lyon, Rhône.

La Tour Rose

In old Lyon, a restaurant with amazing rooms, each one reflecting a different period in the history of silk. 22 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon, Rhône.

Chalet du Mont d’Arbois

Old pine furniture, log fires and fresh bedrooms in a traditional chalet. 447 chemin de la Rocaille, 74120 Megève, Haute-Savoie.

Château de Noizay

Formal French gardens stretch away from this substantial 16th-century chateau. Inside, sturdy wooden stairs lead from the black and white tiled hall to the bedrooms, many of them furnished with four poster beds. The food and local Vouvray wines are excellent. Route de Chançay, 37210 Noizay, Indre-et-Loire.

Moulin de la Gorce

Two main reasons for a visit to this flour mill are the peace it enjoys and the food it produces. Built in the 1500s in an enviable position by a lake, it is now run by pastry chefs. Decoration varies: some country, some period, but the chintzy bedrooms look a touch out of place. Exceptional cuisine. 87800 La Roche-l’Abeille, Haute-Vienne.

La Huchette

The Gualdieri family have restored and enlarged this old inn and smartened it up considerably in the process. The bold decoration includes a colourful mural of country scenes in the beamed dining room, which specializes in regional dishes. The best and quietest bedrooms are those facing the large garden. 01750 Replonges, Ain.

Château de la Vallée Bleue

The Gasquets have owned and run this mini chateau since 1985, and more committed hoteliers would be hard to find. Flowers brighten the rooms; on chilly days a log fire blazes in the hall; service is caring; and an easy air pervades the hotel. Route de Verneuil, St-Chartier, 36400 La Châtre, Indre.

Le Fer à Cheval

Hansel and Gretel wood chalet with gleaming furniture and fresh fabrics. 36 route du Crêt-d’Arbois, 74120 Megève, Haute- Savoie.

Hôtel les Charmes

Secluded grounds with tall trees surround this civilized 18th-century maison bourgeoise. The pool is a plus. 10 place du Murger, 21190 Meursault, Côte-d’Or.

Château de la Menaudière

A small, beautifully furnished chateau with a snug bar, pretty courtyard and lawns, and a warm heart. 41401 Montrichard, Loir-et-Cher.

Château de la Beuvrière

Dedicated châteauhoppers can enjoy a night in the genuine medieval article without having to dip too far into their pockets. On a huge estate in the Cher valley, it has been carefully renovated, its lovely rooms full of family furniture. The pool is rather too close to the house – but that’s just a quibble. St-Hilaire-de-Court, 18100 Vierzon, Cher.

La Chapelle-St-Martin

The trim and tidy manor house stands proud within its equally trim and tidy grounds with small lake and mature trees. Inside is decorated to the hilt, mixing antiques, modern conveniences and rich fabrics; bedrooms are equally impressive. Yet the ambience is relaxed. Fine swimming pool, tennis courts. St-Martin-du-Fault, 87510 Nieul, Haute-Vienne.

Le Logis Saint-Martin

Once you’re ensconced in this pretty hotel, surrounded by woods, it seems impossible that the A10 motorway is so close. Built in the 17th century of pale stone, it has a tower converted into a smart split-level suite. Bertrand Heintz is a welcoming host, and the classic cuisine uses only organic produce. Chemin de Pissot, 79400 St-Maixent-L’Ecole, Deux-Sèvres.

Château de Rochecotte

A vast park and formal garden enclose the grand family-run stately home; inside gorgeous furnishings enhance the classical rooms. Yet it retains the feel of a private home – the family could not be more welcoming nor the staff more attentive. Madame Pasquier serves consistently elegant cuisine. St-Patrice, 37130 Langeais, Indre-et-Loire.

Domaine des Hauts de Loire

Characterful 19thcentury hunting lodge. Michelin-starred cuisine. Route de Herbault, 41150 Onzain, Loir-et-Cher.

La Reconce

Handsome village hotel next door to La Poste restaurant, both admirably run by Denise and Jean-Noel Dauvergne. Le Bourg, 71600 Poisson, Saône-et-Loire.

Ostellerie du Vieux Pérouges

In the centre of the medieval town. Excellent traditional cooking; bedrooms are in four separate houses. Place du Tilleul, 01800 Pérouges, Meximieux, Ain.

Grand Hôtel du Lion d’Or

Gastronomic food in a flamboyant villa in this undiscovered town. 69 rue Georges Clémenceau, 41200 Romorantin- Lanthenay, Loir-et-Cher.

La Tonnellerie

The internal garden of this 19th-century wine-merchant’s house is glorious in summer, when tables are set out beneath the chestnuts. The modern regional cuisine is always a draw. The hotel is kept in pristine order by the delightful Marie-Christine Pouey; among the pretty floral bedrooms are four apartment suites. 12 rue des Eaux, Tavers, 45190 Beaugency, Loiret.

La Demeure de Chavoire

For total peace and tranquillity, look no further than this hotel on the shores of Lake Annecy. It forges a winning combination of classic elegance and modern luxury, with artistic decoration and romantic bedrooms named after local writers and beauty spots. 71 route d’Annecy-Chavoire, 74290 Veyrier-du-Lac, Haute-Savoie.

Château Belmont

A refined 19th-cenury villa in Touraine stone. Sitting in a wicker chair inside the colonnade, sipping a cocktail and savouring the landscaped garden is just one of its treats. Luxurious bedrooms and delectable food at the Jean Bardet restaurant are others. The hotel is only 2km (about 1 mile) from the city centre. 57 rue Groison, 37100 Tours, Indre-et-Loire.

Le Pontot

The only hotel within the town walls of old Vézelay, this special B&B occupies an ancient, sprawling house, fortified and rebuilt over the centuries. Bedrooms range from ones with stone floors, rafters and rustic furniture to a suite in Louis XVI style. In autumn, breakfast is served in front of a splendid log fire; in summer, in the pretty walled garden. Place du Pontot, 89450 Vézelay, Yonne.

Reynaud

Fine restaurant with rooms, the accent is on fish and home-grown vegetables. Glorious terrace beside the Rhône river. 82 avenue du President Roosevelt, 26600 Tainl’Hermitage, Drôme.

Au Gay Séjour

A simple white and wood chalet with spectacular alpine views and hearty food. Le Tertenoz de Seythenex, 74210 Faverges, Haute-Savoie.

Auberge du Père Bise

Swanky inn on the lake, run by mère et fille Bise, exalted for their cuisine. Route du Port, 74290 Talloires, Haute-Savoie.

Résidence de Rohan

Snug among the pines typical of this coast, a relaxed seaside B&B occupies a handsome white house. Outdoor pool. Parc des Fées, 17640 Vaux-sur-Mer, Charente-Maritime.