Hotel Il San Pietro

Unabashedly catering for the jetset, the San Pietro is an architectural masterpiece, merging imperceptibly into the cliff face east of Positano. Each individually designed room has a flower-laden terrace, and even the bathrooms have magnificent views. Superb gourmet cuisine completes a sumptuous package. Private beach. Via Laurito 2, 84017 Positano, Salerno.

Hotel Miramare

Set on a steep hill just west of the main beach, a series of old fishermen’s houses now make up this delightful small hotel. All the bedrooms have private, sea-facing terraces and spacious bathrooms. Another terrace has been glassed in, with bougainvillaea hanging from the ceiling, to form a splending breakfast room. Via Trara Genoino 25-27, 84017 Positano, Salerno.

Hotel Le Sirenuse

An 18th-century palazzo still run by its aristocratic owners, the Sirenuse has expanded to include more rooms and a web of private and public terraces, but still manages to retain houseparty charm and exclusivity. Delightful Venetian and Neapolitan furniture complements original ceramics. First-class gourmet cuisine. Via Colombo 30, 84017 Positano, Salerno.

Hotel Palazzo Murat

This haven of tranquillity in the town centre boasts 17th-century decoration and antique furnishings, and a profusion of flowers. Via dei Mulini 23, 84017 Positano, Salerno.

Hotel Villa Maria

A charmingly restored villa with terrace views and shady gardens. Some facilities shared with modern Hotel Giordano next door. Via Santa Chiara 2, 84010 Ravello, Salerno.

Hotel Villa Cimbrone

In a romantic setting, this enchanting 12th-century villa has splendid stone fireplaces and stone floors, and is crammed with knick-knacks, books, oil paintings and antiques. White Gothic doors lead to comfortable, exquisitely decorated bedrooms with the feel of a private house. Via Santa Chiara 26, 84010 Ravello, Salerno.

Hotel Villa Franca

It’s a long, hard climb from the beach back up to the Villa Franca, but it is worth it. Its position gives it stunning views over the town and along the Amalfi Coast. The bedrooms are charming, using traditional painted ceramics alongside crisp blue and white to mirror the sun and Mediterranean beyond. Roof terrace. Via Pasitea 318, 84017 Positano, Salerno.

THERE IS ALMOST no end of opportunities for outdoor activities in the magnificent landscapes of southern Italy. The region as a whole is liberally endowed with wildlife and a rich array of ancient archaeological remains, not least those of the Romans at Pompei and the Greeks in Sicily. The cuisine, too, with its eclectic heritage and diversity of tastes, provides the excuse to dawdle on the coast or in the rustic mountain villages. Though good hotels are not so thick on the ground as in the rest of the country, the choice includes some of the very best, particularly along the stunning Amalfi coast. In contrast is the south’s capital, the anarchic metropolis of Naples, which should not be missed.

Foresteria Baglio della Luna A sturdy medieval tower is at the core of this peaceful country hotel, which offers superb views of Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples. The building has been sympathetically restored to retain much of the original structure; ancient walls surround the garden. Fine food, home-produced wine. Contrada Maddalusa, 92100 Agrigento, Sicilia.

Hotel Luna-Torre Saracena

In the 13th century, St Francis of Assisi chose this glorious spot on the cliff above a Saracen tower for a monastery. His cloister remains, together with some of the medieval buildings, but even the modern additions are charming at this luxurious historic hotel, owned by the same family since 1822. Via P Comite 33, 84011 Amalfi, Salerno.

Hotel Dei Trulli

In pleasant pine-shaded grounds, several conical-roofed trulli are joined to form freestanding apartments with small veranda. Via Cadore 32, 70011 Alberobello, Bari.

Hotel Lidomare

Small B&B hotel on Amalfi’s Piazza del Duomo. Some of the arched, whitewalled bedrooms have views over the sea and Jacuzzis. Largo Ducci Piccolomini 9, 84011 Amalfi, Salerno.

HotelBarbieri

Modern lakeshore hotel with great views of Altomonte, a superb restaurant, new gym and modest but comfortable rooms. Via Italo Barbieri 30, 87042 Altomonte, Cosenza

Grand Hotel San Michele

An imposing villa with huge grounds and several small houses. Kitchen gardens supply the excellent restaurant. Loc. Bosco 8/9, 87022 Cetraro, Cosenza.

Hotel Moderno

Modernity is relative in ancient Erice, but this charming hotel has skillfully blended a 19th-century building with contemporary design and traditional Sicilian crafts. The bedrooms are spacious, the restaurant serves an excellent, wideranging menu and the view from the roof terrace over the tiles is delightful. Via Vittorio Emanuele 63, 91016 Erice, Trapani, Sicilia.

Hotel Elimo

In the centre of the old hill village of Erice, in the same street as the Moderno (see above right), is this picturesque medieval house. It has been brought up to modern standards, with attractive public rooms and individually designed bedrooms, but retains much of its character. Courtyard and roof terrace for idle hours. Via Vittorio Emanuele 75, 91016 Erice, Trapani, Sicilia.

Hotel La Silvana Fasano is a good place from which to explore trulli country, with many examples of the conical-roofed stone houses in the area, and this modern, family-run hotel makes a good base. Many of the spacious, plainly furnished rooms have views; most have a private bathroom. Popular local restaurant. Viale de Pini 87, 72010 Selva di Fasano, Brindisi.

Villa Cenci

Choose between rooms in the cool white villa or those in the traditional trulli. Home-grown vegetables and wine. Via per Ceglie Messapica, 72014 Cisternino, Brindisi

Hotel Masseria Marzalossa Fortified 17th-century farmhouse in olive and citrus groves. Pool, shady courtyards, excellent regional cuisine. Contrada Pezze Vicine 65, 72015 Fasano, Brindisi

Hotel Belvedere

Fabulous views of the Amalfi Coast, and a lift to the seawater pool and beach. Via Smeraldo 19, 84010 Conca dei Marini, Salerno.

Hotel Villa de Pertis

Plain, comfortable and very reasonably priced. Excellent regional food. Walk, cycle, read, think, wind down. Via Ponti 30, 81010 Dragoni, Caserta.

Hotel La Locanda delle Donne Monache

This restored monastery in the centre of the seaside village offers many pleasures, including a charming garden, pool, private beach and a boat. Inside, the foyer’s flamboyance gives way to modern chic in the bedrooms. The restaurant specializes in regional Italian cuisine. Via Carllo Mazzei 4, 85046 Maratea, Potenza.

Hotel Il Melograno

Coolly sophisticated farmhouse hotel, set among olive and lemon groves. Contrada Torricella 345, 70043 Monópoli, Bari.

Hotel Italia

In the heart of the lively old city, a homely, yet immaculate hotel with a delightful garden. Superb value for money. Via Ridola 5, 75100 Matera.

Hotel Santavenere

Splendidly set amid lawns and trees which sweep down to the rocky shore on the edge of Maratea, the low, arcaded Santa Venere exudes an air of quiet sophistication. The spacious, tastefully furnished rooms all have a terrace or balcony with views of this startlingly beautiful, wild stretch of coast. Via Fiumicello di Santa Venere, 85046 Maratea.

Hotel Raya

Modern and stylish, this eye-catching cascade of pink and white bungalows stretches down from the island village to the sea. Inside, ethnic art from Polynesia, Africa and Asia abounds. All rooms have sea views and terraces; the open-air restaurant overlooks the port. No young children. Via San Pietro, 98050 Panarea, Messina.

Romantik Hotel Villa Cheta Elite

This lavish Art Nouveau confection of ochre and cream stucco is perched high on the clifftop, with dizzying views over one of Italy’s most spectacular stretches of coast. Excellent cuisine and carefully chosen antiques and paintings reflect the best of life during the heyday of the Grand Tour. Via Timponi 46, 85041 Acquafredda di Maratea, Potenza.

Hotel Casa Albertina

A popular town-centre hotel, imaginatively decorated with local crafts. Bedrooms have sea views. Half-board in high season. Via della Tavolozza 3, 84017 Positano, Salerno.

Hotel Albania

Stylish modern hotel, ultra-efficient and spotlessly clean, with light and airy rooms and a seafood restaurant. Via S Francesco di Paola 10, 73028 Otranto, Lecce.

Hotel Baia Paraelios

Holiday-camp style, but without the razzmatazz. This attractive, child-friendly hotel on the far southern toe of Italy consists of 72 small bungalows, sprawled across a wooded hill by a picture-postcard bay of white sand and dazzling blue sea. There are three pools, an open-air bar and a seaside terrace dining room. Fornaci, 89861 Parghelia, Catanzaro.

Hotel Palumbo

A lovingly restored 12th-century palazzo, with lavish décor and superb food. Past guests include Wagner, DH Lawrence and JFK. Via San Giovanni del Toro 16, 84010 Ravello.

Hotel Mille Pini

This neat, simple, friendly chalet sits at the foot of the chairlift up to Monte Rotondo, the highest point in the Apennines. Via Pescara 2, 67038 Scanno, L’Aquila.

Hotel Masseria San Domenico

A fortified refugeturned- country house, now a hotel with spa. NLitoranea 379, 72010 Savelletri di Fasano, Brindisi.

Hotel Sierra Silvana

Comfortable country hotel consisting of a cluster of modern buildings around an imposing four-room trulli. Via D Bartolo Boggia 5, 72010 Selva di Fasano, Brindisi.

Hotel San Giorgio

A handsome 17th-century cardinal’s palace, now a family-run village hotel, with fine views and a lively atmosphere. Via Citarelli 8, 89049 Stilo, Reggio di Calabria.

Hotel Villa Brunella

The setting’s the thing here: this attractive modern hotel is built on steep terraced slopes among lemon groves, with fabulous sea views and large grounds. The spacious rooms make the most of the light and views, as do the large dining terrace and the pool. Lots of steps to and from the bedrooms. Via Tragara 24A, 80073 Capri, Napoli.

Hotel Punta Tragara

Smart, cubelike Le Corbusier building hanging dramatically over the cliff. Via Tragara 57, 80073 Capri, Napoli.

Hotel Santa Caterina

Built in 1902, this sumptuous hotel on the coast road just outside Amalfi combines attractive décor with superb views, fine dining and impeccable service. Ask for one of the freestanding villas in the surrounding lemon groves. A private lift leads down the cliff to the pool and beach. Strada Statale Amalfitana 9, 84011 Amalfi, Salerno.

Hotel Luna

This old-fashioned seaside hotel’s many pluses more than make up for the slightly overblown décor. The Luna has what must be one of the best locations on the island, perched on the cliffs of the south coast. Views from the spacious rooms are exhilarating. The pool is large by local standards. Viale Matteotti 3, 80073 Capri, Napoli.

Hotel Della Baia

Antiques and modern furniture are blended with books, plants and flowers to create a homely atmosphere at this modern seafront hotel, run by three sisters. The bedrooms all have balconies and there are lounge chairs on the veranda and lawn for sun worshippers. The home-cooked food is good. Via dell’Erica, 81030 Baia Domizia, Caserta.

Hotel Pensione Quattro Stagione

This flower-filled village house near the Marina Piccola is the closest thing in Capri to a traditional pensione. The rooms are comfortable, the views from the bougainvillea-shaded terrace lovely, and dinner (on request) a lively taste of Italy. Rates are extremely reasonable, so book well ahead. Via Marina Piccola 1, 80073 Capri, Napoli.

Hotel Scalinatella

A profusion of arches and oriental ornamentation gives a Moorish feel to this spotless white hotel where no expense has been spared. Via Tragara 10, 80073 Capri, Napoli.

Hotel Villa Sarah

Small modern hotel, set in its own vineyards and orchard, with well-kept rooms and delightful terraced gardens. Very reasonable prices. Via Tiberio 3/A, 80073 Capri, Napoli.

Hotel CAPRI Villa Krupp

Lenin and Gorky once lived in this serene clifftop villa, which is now a simple, popular, family-run hotel. Bright, spacious rooms. Viale Matteotti 12, 80073 Capri, Napoli.

Hotel La Villarosa

In the centre of the little island town of Ischia, a few steps from the harbour and lido, a jungle of a garden surrounds this low-key spa hotel. Inside, a traditional country house atmosphere prevails, with elegant bedrooms (many with balconies) and antique-furnished salons. Dining terrace with fine rooftop views. Via Giacinto Gigante 5, 80077 Porto d‘Ischia, Napoli.

Hotel Il Monastero

Charming pensione built into the walls of the 14th-century islet castle. Good food, reasonable prices and superb views. Castello Aragonese 3, 80070 Ischia, Napoli.

Hotel Grande Albergo Vesuvio

Elegant 1880s hotel with one of Naple’s finest restaurants and wonderful views of the Castel dell’Oro. Via Partenope 45, 80121 Napoli.

Hotel Santa Lucia

The impeccably upmarket Santa Lucia, set overlooking the bay and the Castel dell’Ovo, is one of the best-known hotels in southern Italy. The public rooms are opulently decorated with frescoes, marble, stucco and antiques; the bedrooms are only marginally less elaborate. The service and cuisine are flawless. Via Partenope 46, 80121 Napoli.

Hotel Miramare

In an Art Nouveau villa, a charming seafront hotel offering small but well-furnished rooms, a roof garden and bar. Via Nazario Sauro 24, 80132 Napoli.

Hotel Paradiso

Good rooms, excellent food, and a stunning location in peaceful Posillipo area, with the whole bay and city spread out at your feet. Via Catullo 11, Posillipo, 80122 Napoli.

Hotel Don Alfonso

The only Michelin three-star in southern Italy, with a few rooms attached. Corso Sant’Agata 11, 80064 Sant’Agata Sui Due Golfi, Napoli.

Hotel Bellevue Syrene

The Syrene opened in 1824 and was a favourite stop of Empress Eugénie of France. It has fabulous views of the bay from its clifftop position, and its many charms include a salon devoted to original Dali paintings, a Pompeii-style dining room, a wisteria arcade, peaceful courtyards, local ceramics and frescoes. Piazza della Vittoria 5, 80067 Sorrento, Napoli.

Hotel La Badia

A friendly family hotel with great charm and views over town, in a converted monastery set among olive and citrus groves. Via Nastro Verde 8, 80067 Sorrento, Napoli.

Hotel Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria

Two elegantly furnished 19th-century villas and a 1920s Swiss chalet. Stunning clifftop terrace and lush gardens. Piazza Tasso 34, 80067 Sorrento, Napoli.

Hotel Capo la Gala

Almost invisible modern hotel, carved from a series of terraces in the cliff-face, with bland rooms but a homely atmosphere. Via Luigi Serio 8, Capo la Gala, 80069 Vico Equense, Napoli.

Gangivecchio Paolo Tornabene has made a peaceful, secluded retreat of this converted 13th-century monastery, now run as a restaurant-with-rooms. Inside are tiled floors, whitewashed walls and beamed ceilings. The classic Sicilian food, using homegrown almonds, vegetables and herbs, is mouthwatering. NC da Gangivecchio, 90024 Gangi, Sicilia.

Hotel Arathena

Rocks Away from the crowds by the sands of the busy resort but right on the rocky seafront, is this friendly family-run hotel. It’s a delightful place, with seafront gardens and large pool with bar, cheerful balconied bedrooms (many with views of Mount Etna) and public rooms bright with ceramics. Via Calcide Eubea 55, 98035 Giardini-Naxos, Sicilia

Hotel Eremo della Giubliana

In tranquil rolling farmland, this 15th-century fortified convent now makes a glamorous hideaway hotel. It has been beautifully modernized yet retains much of its original structure, with splendid archways and pitch and limestone floors. Local produce and wines make up the bulk of the fine menu. Nkm 9, Contrada Giubiliana SP per Marina di Ragusa, 97100 Ragusa, Sicilia.

Hotel Grand Hotel

This is a truly grand hotel, with an imposing circular marble staircase, gracious Art Deco rooms filled with fine art, Murano glass chandeliers and antique furnishings. There is a luxuriant indoor garden, and a roof garden restaurant with fine views of the harbour and the old town. Some bedrooms have sea views. Viale Mazzini 12, 96100 Siracusa, Sicilia.

Hotel Domus Mariae

A former convent in a quiet quarter, still run by Ursuline nuns, with an ornate chapel, modern furnishings and air of calm. Via Vittorio Veneto 76, 96100 Siracusa, Sicilia.

Hotel Villa Belvedere

The simple but stylish Belle Epoque hotel has commanding views of town, sea and mountain. Other pluses are pretty flower gardens, attractive public rooms and a tantalising pool deck surrounded by giant palms. The rooms are clean and bright; some have private terraces. Via Bagnoli Croci 79, 98039 Taormina, Messina, Sicilia.

Hotel San Domenico Palace

In the heart of historic Taormina is this supremely luxurious former monastery. It caters unashamedly to the international jetset, and its beautiful cloisters and rooms are filled with art pieces. Other attractions are and enchanting garden, excellent sea views, and a wonderful restaurant. Piazza San Domenico 5, 98039 Taormina, Sicilia.

 Romantik Hotel Villa Ducale

A ten-minute walk from Taormina leads to this hotel with panoramic views from all rooms. Built by the grandparents of the current owners, it is interestingly furnished, with no two rooms alike. There is even a library for those who want to while away lazy hours on the flower-bedecked terrace. Via Leonardo da Vinci 60, 98039 Taormina, Messina, Sicilia.

Aloof on its rocky promontory, this castellated 19th-century folly has a grand interior and businesslike staff. Request a sea view (which costs extra) to avoid looking out onto Alghero’s apartment blocks. Alghero’s old town is nearby, and handy for morning espresso or cappuccino; breakfast here is not a strong point. NLungomare Valencia 1, 07041 Alghero, Sardinia.

Hotel Su Gologone

This low white villa in the wooded foothills of the Supramonte mountains has guest rooms with whitewashed walls and tiled floors. Despite the large number of rooms, it feels small and personal, and the area is extremely peaceful. Excellent food, such as spit-roasted suckling pig. NOliena, 08025 Nuoro, Sardinia.

Hotel Capo d’Orso

This relaxed hotel is only a short boat ride away from the busy Costa Smeralda, but miles away in spirit. The life of the place revolves around two white slivers of beach, the pool and a series of shaded terraces. Rooms are in a low-rise block unremarkable in style, but each has a balcony or terrace facing the sea. NLocalità Cala Capra, 07020 Palau, Sardinia.

Hotel Balocco

A stylishly rustic modern hotel in lush gardens, close to the chic harbour of Porto Cervo. Via Liscia di Vacca, 07020 Porto Cervo, Sassari, Sardinia.

Hotel Le Ginestre

Little luxury villas among trees and flowering shrubs. Most of the rooms have balconies with sea views. 07020 Porto Cervo, Sassari, Sardinia

Hotel Capriccioli

An affordable villa-type hotel close to a pretty beach. Half-board in high season. Capriccioli, 07020 Porto Cervo, Sassari, Sardinia.

Hotel Sporting

An oasis of luxury in tastefully simple neo-rustic buildings scattered around a promontory. Strong yachting contingent. NOlbia, 07020 Porto Rotondo, Sassari, Sardinia.

Hotel Pitrizza

On a headland surrounded by sapphire water, Pitrizza is a collection of villas, scattered through a garden leading to a small beach and seawater pool. Its strong point is the way it has combined peace and sociability – it’s quiet but there’s also a clubhouse with lively bar/restaurant. NPorto Cervo, 07020 Sardinia.

Hotel Romazzino

One of Europe’s grandest beach hotels, the Romazzino has exclusive use of a white-sand bay. The hotel is on the large side but has the feel of a smaller place; families will feel comfortable. There are Moorish touches to the decoration, and service and food are top class. N07020 Porto Cervo, Costa Smeralda, Sardinia.

Hotel Is Morus Relais

This Mediterranean take on a country-house hotel is in a blissfully quiet corner of the island, far from any resorts. Bedrooms are white and uncluttered; some in the main building have sea views. There are also villas in the wooded garden. The private beach is a few steps away, with crystal-clear water. NSanta Margherita di Pula, 09010 Pula, Sardinia.

Hilltop retreat set in olive groves and vineyards. Excellent two-room suites with mini kitchens and terraces. Sterpeto 42, 06086 Assisi, Perugia.

Hotel L’Orto degli Angeli

Romantic hotel in a fine frescoed nobleman’s town house with a hanging garden at its core. A gem. 06031 Bevagna, Perugia.

Hotel Subasio

Assisi’s grand hotel, somewhat elderly, but splendidly sited near the Basilica. Via Frate Elia 2, 06082 Assisi, Perugia.

Hotel Villa Aureli

Two self-catering apartments for 4-6 people in the magical home of Count Serego Alighieri, little altered since the 1700s. Pool. Via Cirenei 70, 06071 Castel del Piano Umbro, Perugia.

Hotel Poggio d’Asproli

This elegant stonebuilt farmhouse is the home of hotelier and artist Bruno Pagliari. Some of his work, mixed in with antiques, decorates the house. The sitting room has a huge fireplace and inviting sofas, and along one side of the room is a terrace for eating out on or just absorbing the peace. Frazione, Asproli 7, 06059 Todi, Perugia.

Hotel Umbra

Just off Assisi’s main square a row of old houses, some dating back to medieval times, have been connected to create a hotel with the feeling of a private home. There’s a terrace, covered by a pergola, for dining out on. The public rooms are elegant; bedrooms are simpler, and some have lovely countryside views. Via degli Archi 6, 06081 Assisi, Perugia.

Hotel Castello dell’Oscano

Historic castle in an ancient steep pine forest. Some rooms are in the less atmospheric Villa Ada next door. Strada della Frocella 37, 06070 Cenerente, Perugia.

Hotel Casa Giulia

There’s a three-day minimum stay at this red-brick country villa, but that’s no hardship as it’s a good base for Assisi, Perugia, Spoleto and Todi. The owners are welcoming, and their private collection of antique cameras, old toys and objets d’art give a personal touch. Bedrooms are plain but comfortable. Via Corciano 1, 06039 Bovara di Trevi, Perugia.

Hotel Relais il Canalicchio

In the countryside 35km (20 miles) south of Perugia, a hilltop village has been turned into a stylish hotel complete with gym, sauna and billiard room. Grinding stones and local ceramics are much in evidence, and there are antiques too in the public rooms. Some bedrooms have private terrace gardens. Via della Piazza 4, 06050 Canalicchio, Perugia.

Hotel Gattapone

Built in the 1960s by the present owner’s father, this hotel is a mix of knowingly retro pieces and high-tech extras. Regular guests include musicians at the local jazz festival and creative companies running seminars, but the architecture and stunning clifftop location above the village have a wide appeal. Via del Ponte 6, 06049 Spoleto, Perugia.

Hotel Le Tre Vaselle

Wonderful village hotel owned by the winemaking Lungarotti family – sampling their wine at dinner is a must. The sitting rooms are marked by huge fireplaces, stripy furniture, card tables and a grand piano. Rooms are in annexes next to the main building. Breakfast is lavish. Recent addition: an olive oil museum. Via Garibaldi 48, 06089 Torgiano, Perugia.

Hotel La Bastiglia

Smartly restored old mill-house with panoramic views from nearly all its rooms. Some are suites with private terraces. Piazza Valle Gloria 7, 06038 Spello, Perugia.

If you’re exploring the countryside around Siena, this hotel in a small spa town is worth seeking out for its service (friendly and solicitous) and its cuisine. Breakfast on the terrace is particularly good. Another treat is the open-air thermal pool in a quiet corner of the garden. Via Ara Urcea 43, Bagno Vignoni, 53027 San Quirico d’Orcia, Siena.

Hotel Belvedere di San Leonino 15th-century house. Well-equipped rooms, garden, terrace, pool. NLoc. San Leonino 23, 53011 Castellina in Chianti, Siena.

Hotel Relais Borgo San Felice

A hamlet on the wine estate has become a luxurious hotel. NSan Felice, 53019 Castelnuovo Berardenga, Siena.

Hotel Salivolpi

For a farmhouse holiday in Chianti country at a much lower price that many of the nearby ‘hamlet’ hotels, Salivolpi is a sound choice. The guesthouse comprises two low old stone farmhouses and a new bungalow in a large garden on the edge of the village. The neat bedrooms contain huge old carved beds. Via Fiorentina 89, 53011 Castellina in Chianti, Siena.

Hotel Tenuta di Ricavo

A whole hamlet abandoned in the 1950s has now been converted into a hotel that’s owned and run by the Scotoni and Lobrano families. It’s very well done out, with large, whitewashed vaulted rooms and a jumble of old rather than antique furniture. The ‘Black Sheep’ restaurant is popular with non-residents. NLocalità Ricavo, Castellina in Chianti 53011, Siena.

Hotel La Frateria di Padre Eligio

Film-maker Anthony Minghella stayed here to revise a script; others come here on retreat (there are no TVs, radios or newspapers) or simply on honeymoon or holiday. A community of young people runs the place; expect wonderful food and beautifully furnished, candlelit rooms. NConvento di San Francesco, 53040 Cetona, Siena.

Hotel La Chiusa

The restaurant, an old olive oil mill, is the centrepiece, but great care has been given to the bedrooms and suites. Superb bathrooms. Via della Madonnina 88, 53040 Montefollonico, Siena.

Hotel Borgo San Luigi

Farmhouse country hotel in vast, lush grounds. Copious buffets, pool, tennis. NLocalità Strove, Via della Cerreta 7, 53035 Monterriggioni, Siena.

Hotel San Sano

The village’s old watchtower forms the core of this hotel, with bedrooms in the former village houses, each connected by courtyards, passageways and stone steps. The dining room is in the former stables. Guest rooms are rustic in style, but stay the right side of overly countrified, and have modern bathrooms. NSan Sano, 53010 Lecchi in Chianti, Siena.

Hotel MONTICCHIELLO DI PIENZA L’Olmo

Old farmhouse with double room, suites and apartment. Delicious breakfasts. NPodere Ommio 27, 53020 Monticchiello di Pienza, Siena.

Hotel Il Chiostro di Pienza

Half the rooms in this stylishly converted monastery overlook the cloister, the rest have serene hill views. NCorso Rosellino 26, 53026 Pienza, Siena.

Hotel Relais La Suvera

This 16th-century fortified villa once belonged to film-maker Luchino Visconti. Although he may not have had anything to do with the canopied beds and elaborate decorative style worthy of a film set, you feel he would have approved. The place is fun, sybaritic, romantic – and expensive. NPievescola, 53030 Siena.

Hotel Podere Terreno

Old farmhouse guesthouse. Vines, olive groves, great home cooking. Half board. Via Terreno 21, Volpaia, 53017 Radda in Chianti, Siena.

Hotel Relais Fattoria Vignale

This hotel has an appealingly domestic feel, decorated with muted colours, fresh flowers, oil paintings and standard lamps. Breakfast is served on the terrace or in the vaulted breakfast room. The ‘taverna’ on-site does snacks, and there’s a very good restaurant – also called the Vignale – a short walk away. Via Pianigiani 8, 53017 Raddi in Chianti, Siena.

Hotel Il Rosolaccio

A hilltop farmhouse well restored by an English couple, Steven and Natalie Music. Also self-catering apartments. Pool. NSan Benedetto 34, 53037 San Gimignano, Siena.

Hotel L’Antico Pozzo

A 15th-century house in the middle of town, beautifully restored in 1990 and furnished with fine, simple taste. Via San Matteo 85, 53037 San Gimignano, Siena.

Hotel Casale del Cotone

A former hunting lodge 2km (1 mile) north of San Gimignano, this is now a classy farmhouse-style B&B. Bedrooms are airy and refined, furnished with just one or two interesting pieces; the sitting areas and breakfast room are done out in the same mix of rustic and antique style. NLoc. Il Cotone 59 ’Cellole‘, 53037 San Gimignano, Siena

Hotel SAN GIMIGNANO Il Casolare di Libbiano

Country seclusion combined with proximity to San Gimignano and Siena at this tastefully furnished old farmhouse. NLibbiano 3, 53037 San Gimignano, Siena.

Hotel Le Renaie

Modest sister hotel to the nearby Villa San Paolo, with lower prices. Peaceful location, pool and access to San Paolo’s tennis courts. NPancole, 53037 San Gimignano, Siena.

Hotel Villa San Paolo

A hillside villa with terraced gardens, tennis courts, pool and intimate lounges. NStrada per Certaldo, 53037 San Gimignano, Siena.

Hotel Villa Scacciapensieri

This villa lies just north of the city, close enough to hear church bells tolling. The bedrooms are a mix of styles: some suites are full of antiques, others have painted country furniture. Breakfast and dinner are served outdoors. The Nardi family are very helpful hosts. N Via di Scacciapensieri 10, 53100 Siena.

Hotel Locanda dell’Amorosa

A working farm is the setting for this upmarket inn. Bedrooms, in the main house and in stone outbuildings on the estate, are simple, with whitewashed walls, tiled floors, and gleaming bathrooms. Dinner is served in the old stable block and food is a modern rendition of traditional Tuscan specialities. N53048 Sinalunga, Siena.

Hotel Certosa di Maggiano

A former Carthusian monastery on the outskirts of Siena now makes a restfully pampering hotel. The elegant cloisters date from the 14th century. Excellent modern cuisine is served in vaulted arcades round the central courtyard, in a ceramic-packed room inside, or next to the swimming pool. NStrada di Certosa 82, 53100 Siena.

Hotel Relais Club Le Anfore

Tastefully decorated old farmhouse guesthouse in unspoilt countryside. Spacious bedrooms; pool, tennis, riding. Via di Chiusi 30, 53047 Sarteano, Siena.

Hotel Palazzo Ravizza

A charming family run pensione in the best tradition. Rooms have lovely views over the Tuscan landscape. Pretty dining room. NPian dei Mantellini 34, 53100 Siena.

Hotel Borgo Pretale

A group of grey stone houses clustered round a massive watchtower, artfully transformed into a stylish hotel. NPretale, 53018 Sovicille, Siena.

Hotel Relais Borgo di Toiano

Hamlet-turned-hotel, its terraces dotted with roses. Restful and uncluttered interiors; some rooms with view; pool. NToiano, 53018 Sovicille, Siena.

Country estate with a simple but stylish 17th-century farmhouse at its heart. Many guests come for the horse riding. Inside, bedrooms are rustic, with equestrian prints, worn terracotta floors and whitewashed walls; one of the nicest is in the old dovecot. Meals are communal, eaten round a long larchwood table. San Filippo, 50021 Barberino Val d’Elsa, Firenze.

Hotel Osteria del Vicario

The approach through modern Certaldo is discouraging, but press on to the old town and this simple, well-priced inn. Via Rivellino 3, 50052 Certaldo Alto, Firenze.

Hotel Annalena

A traditional pensione with solid comforts and a huge drawing room. Bedrooms vary in size; acceptable bathrooms. Via Romana 34, 50125 Firenze.

Hotel Grand

 Early 1900s palazzo whose winter garden lobby is especially evocative. Bedrooms, frescoed with Renaissance scenes, have all modern luxury. Piazza Ognissanti 1, 50123 Firenze.

Hotel Royal

This B&B hotel is cool and elegant, and its large, peaceful garden and parking spaces are a huge plus. Bedrooms are functional; some are small. Good value for money. Via delle Ruote 52, 50123 Firenze.

Hotel Tornabuoni Beacci

On the elegant prime shopping street, a long-established pensione with old-world atmosphere. Rooftop terrace. Via de Tornabuoni 3, 50123 Firenze.

Hotel Excelsior

Florence’s grandest hotel is made from two 19th-century houses that stand next to the River Arno. Its fabulous interiors abound in oil paintings, marble staircases, statues and stained glass windows. The rooms are spacious and old-fashioned in style; many have good views over the river. Close to the train station. Piazza d’Ognissanti 1, 50123 Firenze.

Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

 This house just behind the archaeological museum was a brothel in Medici times, and subsequently a convent. The Antuono family has lived here since the 1920s, and now runs the first-rate hotel. There are many special touches, from frescoed rooms to phones in the bathrooms. Via Laura 50, 50121 Firenze.

Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti

This vaulted hotel is airy and calm, and is set in a traffic-free square by the Ospedale degli Innocenti. The decoration is spare and elegant, with carved wooden bedheads and a few well-chosen pieces of furniture. The place is popular with visiting art historians so book well in advance. Breakfast is very good. Piazza della SS Annunziata 3, 50122 Firenze.

Hotel Porta Rossa

Italy’s second oldest hotel, dating from 1386, is a purposeful, bustling and civilized place. Leather couches and stained glass decorate the vaulted reception area. Bedrooms are comparatively plain but are large; it’s worth asking for the tower suite with its views over town. Best of all is the hotel’s central location, close to Piazza della Signoria. Via Porta Rossa 19, 50123 Firenze.

Hotel Torre di Bellosguardo

This 16th-century villa with tower rests on a hill overlooking the city, just south of the Porta Romana. It aims to be a home from home and what makes the place special is the affable owner Giovanni Franchetti. Bedrooms are large and solidly furnished. There is a minimum two-night stay at weekends. Via Roti Michelozzi 2, 50124 Firenze.

Hotel Villa Cora

A pleasure palace on the outskirts of Florence, this Renaissance-style 19th-century mansion was once the home of Baron Oppenheim and later Napoleon’s wife Empress Eugenia. The formal interior includes ceilings encrusted with stucco, Murano glass chandeliers and regally draped beds. Viale Niccolò Machiavelli 18, 50125 Firenze.

Hotel Salvadonica

Olive oil and wine are still produced on this large farm estate. The guest rooms are in a couple of huge farmhouses; there are also ten apartments in the grounds. It’s an easy drive into Florence; there are many alternative distractions on site, including horseriding, billiards, tennis and football. Via Grevigiana 82, 50024 Mercatale Val di Pesa, Firenze

Hotel Villa le Barone

This 16th-century villa in the countryside south of Florence is run along the lines of a house party, with honesty bar and a ‘reception’ in the form of a visitor’s book. Rooms have the feeling of a private home furnished with personal effects. There are two sitting rooms and a pool with a view to lounge by. Via San Leolino 19, 50020 Panzano in Chianti, Firenze.

Hotel Villa Campestri

This square Renaissance villa on a hillside south of Vicchio is one of the area’s few good places to stay. Bedrooms are grand; some are in the main house, others in a farmhouse next door. Public rooms mix tapestries with Art Nouveau stained glass. Via di Campestri 19, 50039 Vicchio di Mugello, Firenze.

Hotel Paggeria Medicea Terracotta pantiles, cool arcades and a formal garden characterize this hotel in a village near Florence. Created from the servant’s wing of a 16th-century Medici villa, it is imbued with an understated elegance. Dinner is served on a terrace overlooking vineyards; food is Tuscan with a Renaissance flavour. Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII, 59015 Artimino, Firenze.

Originally a monastery, now a small, lavishly furnished hotel in the residential district of Parioli with an acclaimed restaurant. Via de Notaris 5, 00197, Roma.

Hotel De Consoli

A slick city hotel, perfectly placed for visiting the Vatican or for shopping in Via Cola di Rienzo. Whirlpool baths help restore tired bones. Via Varrone 2/d, 00193 Rome.

Hotel Condotti

The comfy sofas in the glossy foyer are the only place to lounge. There is a frescoed breakfast room. Bedrooms are harmonious. Via Mario De’Fiori 37, 00187 Roma.

Hotel Raphael

Cloaked in ivy, and set back from Piazza Navona, with a startlingly theatrical foyer behind its discreet façade. Lovely roof terrace. NLargo Febo 2, 00186 Roma.

Hotel Hassler

Above the Spanish Steps, with fabulous views from the rooftop, restaurant and gym. Host to Europe’s glitterati in its dolce vita days. Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6, 00187 Roma.

Hotel Eden

Extensively refurbished in1994, Eden is unashamedly status-conscious, flaunting its designer labels and its famous guests – among them have been actors Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman. Decoration is a mix of neutral shades, oil paintings and openfires. The Michelin-starred terrace restaurant looks out over Rome’s rooftops. Via Ludovisi 49, 00187 Roma.

Hotel Empire Palace

Smart new executive hotel, opened in September 1999 in a 19th-century palace which was built as the Roman residence of the aristocratic Venetian Mocenigo family. The contemporary decoration combines Venetian elements with an astral theme, such as a night sky painted on the lobby ceiling. Via Aureliana 39, 00187 Roma.

Hotel Villa del Parco

In a peaceful area a 20-minute bus ride from the centre of Rome. Inside, all is elegant and tranquil. Bedrooms vary in size. N Via Nomentana 110, 00161 Roma.

Hotel D’Inghilterra

This used to be the guest accommodation for the Torlonia palace and a regal air survives, with antique mirrors and classically decorated rooms. It’s in a great spot close to the Spanish Steps and Trevi fountain. Some of the more expensive rooms have their own terrace. Rates do not include breakfast. Via Bocca di Leone 14, 00187 Roma.

Hotel Sole al Pantheon

In an unbeatable location opposite the Pantheon, this ancient building has been a hotel since 1467. It is distinctively and imaginatively decorated, with white leather seating and tiled floors lending a glamorous tone to the public areas. The bedrooms are all different. Bar and a leafy enclosed terrace. Piazza della Rotonda 63, 00186 Roma.

Hotel Majestic

A beautiful wrought iron ‘cage’ lift and many mirrors and fittings survive from the 1880s when this classic, old-world hotel was built. There are bougaiVillaea and olive trees in pots on the terraces, eight sizes of bed, a formal restaurant and a late-night brasserie with live jazz. Double-glazing keeps traffic noise to a minimum. Via Veneto 50, 00187 Roma.

Hotel Adriano

Restaurant-with-rooms next to Hadrian’s Villa. Elegant dining room; swanky bedrooms. Pretty garden and lovely adjacent park. Villa Adriana 194, 00010 Tivoli, Roma.hotel cicerone roma

TUSCANY • UMBRIA LE MARCHE • ABRUZZO • LAZIO • SARDINIA

WITH THE CAPITAL , Rome, Wat its core, Central Italy contains a range of beautiful landscapes and towns rich in culture and history, including ancient palaces, churches and towers. Tuscany in particular offers a wealth of memorable hotels, ranging from hilltop hamlets converted for the purposes, to atmospheric pensioni in Florence and Siena. Umbria and the Marche offer some wonderful rural retreats in their gentle, pastoral countryside. The glossy island of Sardinia, included in this section, has plenty of luxury seaside haunts, plus a few simpler alternatives. If Rome is your destination, then the very best of hotels, from inexpensive to top-of-therange, are described here.

Hotel Capo Sud Island complex of little villas in a quiet spot with fine bay views. Rooms are modern and simple, scattered around the grounds. NLacona Elba I, 57031 Capoliveri.

Hotel Villa Ottone

Across the bay from Portoferraio, in leafy grounds close to the sea, is this polished hotel whose main building is an 18th-century villa. NOttone, 57037 Portoferraio, Elba, Livorno.

Hotel Bencistà

The Bencistà was built as a monastery in the 14th century and has polished tile floors, tall windows, gleaming furniture and an air of serenity, yet bills itself modestly as a pensione. Bedrooms have whitewashed walls and solid old furniture; some have glorious views over Florence and the Tuscan hills. A set menu is offered for dinner, which starts promptly at 7.30pm. Via B da Maiano 4, 50014 Fiesole.

Hotel Relais Il Falconiere

Owner Riccardo Baracchi was born in this small villa. His wife, Silvia, is also from the area and is the chef. Their excellent restaurant attracts diners from a wide area – the food really is special. Vaulted bedrooms are traditionally furnished. The pool overlooks a hillside of cypress trees and olives. NLocalità San Martino 370, 52044 Cortona, Arezzo.

VHotel illa San Michele

This villa was designed by Michelangelo, and if the antiques look as though they are from the 17th century that’s because they probably are. Grandeur and authenticity is San Michele’s hallmark. One of the many pleasures is taking breakfast in the loggia, looking across green hillsides to Florence below. Via Doccia 4, 50014 Fiesole.

Hotel Pardini’s Hermitage

Smartly modern island villa with balconied bedrooms, reached from Giglio Porto by boat, car, donkey or an hour’s walk. NCala degli Alberi, 58013 Giglio Porto, Grosseto.

Hotel Villa Montegranelli

A severe exterior contrasts with the light 18th-century style of the spacious public rooms. The villa is popular for functions. NMonteluiano, 06024 Gubbio, Perugia.

Hotel Villa Pasquini

Once the retreat of an aristocratic family, little has changed since the 19th-century. Via Vacchereccia 56, Margine Coperta, 51010 Massa e Cozzile, Pistoia.

Hotel Fattoria di Vibio

All is effortless simplicity and relaxed elegance at this 18th-century farmhouse. NLocalità Buchella-Doglio 9, 06057 Monte Castello di Vibio, Perugia.

Hotel Villa di Monte Solare

The Iannarones run this 18th-century villa hotel along houseparty lines, offering regional cuisine using fresh ingredients. They have restored the formal garden, and another ‘secret’ garden behind it. Some rooms are in the converted farmhouse with its own pool down the hill. Minimum stay three days. NLocalità Fontignano, 06070 Fontignano, Perugia.

Hotel Villa Lucia

 Informal yet elegant farmhouse B&B run by Italian-American Lucia Vallera. Shady garden and terrace; small pool. Via dei Bronzoli 1443, 51015 Montevettolini, Pistoia.

Hotel Le Grotte di Boldrino

This former palazzo hewn into Panicale’s walls is small and intimate. The decor juxtaposes new with old. Via Virgilio Ceppari, 06064 Panicale, Perugia.

Hotel Brufani

The Brufani has recently undergone a serious expansion, including 55 new rooms, sauna, pool and gym. Stunning views as before. Piazza Italia 12, 06121 Perugia.

Hotel Villa Pambuffetti

A rose-pink brick villa located between Assisi and Perugia, with views of the Umbrian hills. Owners Alessandra and Mauro Angelucci have preserved the original 1920s’ interiors, decorated with Tiffany lamps and cane chairs; the bathrooms are in authentic period style but with modern plumbing and fittings. Via della Vittoria 20, 06036 Montefalco, Perugia.

Hotel Castello di Gargonza

The village, abandoned earlier this century, has now been turned into a place to stay. It’s not strictly a hotel (most accommodation is in the village houses let by the week), but the place is informal and good value. There are basic rooms for a one-night stop, with breakfast in the old oil-pressing house. NGargonza, 52048 Monte San Savino, Arezzo.

Hotel Palazzo Terranova

An imposing, classically proportioned country house commanding wide views over the Umbrian countryside. Lavishly restored by its English owners, Sarah and Johnny Townsend, with bedrooms named after Verdi operas. The whole house can be taken by one party. Attentive, professional service. NLoc Ronti, 06010 Morra, Perugia.

Hotel Borgo Paraelios

Immaculately executed country club-style hotel. Individually furnished rooms and suites are spread around gardens and courtyards. N02040 Poggio Catino, Rieti.

Hotel Santa Domitilla

On this alluring island, close to Chiaia di Luna beach and the pretty port. Via Panoramica, 04027 Isola di Ponza, Latina.

Hotel Royal Victoria

Original features at this dignified 1840s hotel include exquisite trompe l’oeil drapery. Rooms vary in size and style; all are fairly basic. NLungarno Pacinotti 12, 56126 Pisa.

Hotel La Posta Vecchia

The artworks and antiques in this seaside mansion, lapped by the Tyrrhenian sea, were chosen by former owner John Paul Getty. It is probably Italy’s most remarkable hotel. During building work, the foundations of a Roman villa were discovered; they can now be viewed through glass panels in the floor. N00055 Palo Laziale, Ladispoli.

Hotel Villa Serena

There’s no haughtiness at the villa of the Pinto family – or to give them their full title, the counts Pinto de Franca y Vergaes. The polished interior with its old master paintings exudes simplicity and calm, and good food is served in a down-to-earth atmosphere. Bedrooms range from antique-packed to faded gentility. Via San Nicola 6/3, 61100 Pesaro.

Hotel Villa Vannini

This part of Tuscany has relatively few great places to stay, so this attractive villa is particularly welcome. It is managed by the welcoming Bordonaro family. The excellent cuisine is based on Tuscan specialities; pre-dinner drinks are served on the terrace under cedar trees. Bedrooms are furnished in floral fabrics and with good furniture. Villa di Piteccio 6, 51030 Pistoia.

Hotel Casetta delle Selve Nicla Menchi, the characterful owner of this elevated farmhouse B&B, has created an interior stunningly different from the norm. Great breakfasts. N56010 Pugnano, San Giuliano Terme, Pisa

Alleluja Hotel

The most inviting of the exclusive hotels in this chic yachting-and-boutique town. Via del Porto, 58040 Punta Ala, Grosseto.

Hotel Emilia

At this modest clifftop villa a short drive from the small resort of Portonovo, rooms are angled so that most have a sea view. Inside are some stupendous wall coverings – an illustrious band of 20th-century artists have paid for a stay here by donating a work. The food is very good, with fish a speciality. Via Poggio 149a, 60020 Portonovo, Ancona.

Hotel 2 Pellicano

his terracotta villa by the sea combines the best of a luxury hotel (great service and fine seafood cuisine) with an easygoing atmosphere and contemporary decoration. There’s swimming off the flat rocks, and you don’t have to move from the poolside to choose from a huge array of antipasti. NCala dei Santi, 58, 58018 Porto Ercole, Grosseto.

Hotel Villa Rucellai

Potted lemon trees and clipped topiary characterize this country villa on the outskirts of industrial Prato. It has been in the Rucellai Piqué family since 1740 and is evidently a family home, but guests are free to use the grand hall and sitting room. Breakfast is taken at a communal table. Bedrooms are simple. Via di Canneto 16, 59100 Prato.

Hotel Villa Rigacci

 A 15th-century hilltop farmhouse with ivy-covered façade, open fires in winter, and tiled, stone-flagged and archwayed interiors. It makes a great bolthole close to Florence (30km/ 23 miles away). Furniture is highly polished and antique; bedrooms are mostly spacious; and food is a mix of international and Italian cuisine. NVággio 76, 50066 Reggello.

Hotel Punta Rossa

 Secluded setting above a rocky shore. Pleasant holiday hotel. Very large suites. Via delle Batterie 37, Quarto Caldo, 04017 San Felice Circeo, Latina

Hotel Villa Vignola

 A small seaside hotel in a resort on the Abruzzo coast, with a big commitment to service. The decoration of the white clifftop villa has some Moorish influences though the style of bedrooms is a hybrid of Mediterranean and English country-house styles. The restaurant is strong on fish specialities. NVignola, 66054 Vasto Marina, Chieti.

Hotel Antico Casale

 Captivating hotel in the coastal Maremma. Pretty bedrooms, terrace with views over a green, unspoilt valley. Riding offered. NCastagneta, 58054 Scansano, Grosseto.

Hotel Villa Nencini

Old-fashioned stone country hotel on the edge of town. Some rooms are cramped. NBorgo Santo Stefano 55, 56048 Volterra, Pisa.