Hotel Devonshire Arms

This glossy, go-ahead country hotel is owned by the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, and furnished largely with objects from Chatsworth House. There are two dining rooms, the formal Burlington Restaurant and the designer Brasserie. Best of the bedrooms are the themed four-poster rooms in the Old Wing. Bolton Abbey, Skipton, North Yorkshire BD23 6AJ. Map p75 D1

Hotel Simonstone Hall

A former hunting lodge (the American owner still takes it over for private shooting parties) with a welcoming, traditional interior. Slump in the elegant drawing room, fraternize in the Game Tavern, or withdraw to your room. The superior and deluxe ones are magnificent: huge and splendidly furnished. Hawes, North Yorkshire DL8 3LY.

Hazlewood Castle

Once a castle, now a luxury hotel with the latest accoutrements. Paradise Lane, Hazlewood, Tadcaster, North Yorkshire LS24 9NJ.

Hawnby Hotel

‘Village pub’ façade hides an exquisite small hotel, with six bedrooms and an elegant sitting room. Popular with walkers. Hilltop Hawnby, North Yorkshire YO62 5QS.

Hotel Yorke Arms

This creeper-clad former shooting lodge stands on the green in a little Dales hamlet close to Gouthwaite Reservoire – a birdwatchers’ paradise. It is now run by chef Frances Atkins and her husband Gerald. Roaring log fires, snug bedrooms, good food in the candlelit, beamed dining room (dinner included in price of room). Ramsgill-in-Nidderdale, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG3 5RL

Hotel Burgoyne

This outwardly severe stone-walled house makes an excellent base for touring or walking the region. The hotel is smoothly run by owners Derek Hickson and Peter Carwardine, with public rooms that are welcoming yet elegant. The smart bedrooms are peppered with thoughtful extras On the Green, Reeth, Richmond, North Yorkshire DL11 6SN.

Hotel Lastingham Grange

Family-run, child-friendly hotel in delightful village with lovely gardens. Lastingham, York, North Yorkshire YO62 6TH

Hotel Middleham Grange

Impressive bedrooms at this elegant Georgian house, formerly Miller’s House Hotel. Bed and breakfast only. NMarket Place, Middleham, Wensleydale,north Yorkshire DL8 4NR.

Hotel Hall

The Georgian country house, gracious both inside and out, is made extra-special by the vivacious, sympathetic character of its owner. Newton-le-Willows, Bedale, North Yorkshire DL8 1SW

Hotel Holmwood House

Very comfortable B&B about 15 minutes’ walk from the centre of the city. 114 Holgate Rd, York, North Yorkshire YO24 4BB.

Hotel Grange

Handsome Regency townhouse with richly decorated interior and tranquil ambience. Elegant dining room; helpful service 1 Clifton, York, North Yorkshire YO30 6AA.

Hotel Ashfield House

Simple guesthouse tucked behind main village square; large walled garden. 3 Summers Fold, Grassington, Skipton, North Yorkshire BD23 5AE.

Hotel Wrangham House

Former Georgian vicarage. Comfortable sitting room, cosy bar and elegant dining room. Stonegate, Hunmanby, North Yorkshire YO14 0NS. Map p75 E1, p77 F5.

Hotel Sportsman’s Arms

Modest, clean accommodation at this popular Dales village inn. Lively menu in the busy restaurant. Wath-in-Nidderdale, Pately Bridge, North Yorkshire HG3 5PP.

Handsome Georgian house; kind hosts; honest food served in an attractive dining room. Simple accommodation. Crosthwaite, Kendal, Cumbria LA8 8BP

Hotel Wateredge

Of the many places to stay around tourist-ridden Lake Windermere, this is a longstanding favourite. Family-run, with courteous, willing staff, it’s a quiet, traditional holiday inn situated right on the shores of the lake, its core being two fishermen’s cottages. Suites in the annexe. Private jetty. Recently refurbished. Waterhead Bay, Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 0EP.

Hotel Pheasant

The old oak bar, full of dark nooks and crannies, is a gem, little changed from its earliest days. Beyond that are several lounges with generous sitting space. Bedrooms are modern and light, without TV or telephone. The food makes few concessions to fashion – a simple characterful inn, recently refurbished. Bassenthwaite Lake, Cockermouth, Cumbria CA13 9YE.

Hotel White Moss House

Renowned for its cuisine, with pretty bedrooms (two in a secluded cottage). In the Wordsworth family until the 1930s. Rydal Water, Grasmere, Cumbria LA22 9SE.

Hotel Old Dungeon Ghyll

At the heart of the Lake District, a slate-and-stone walkers’ hostelry: simple, somewhat worn, with hearty food. Great Langdale, Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 9JY.

Hotel Number Thirty One

A winning combination of imagination and hands-on professionalism. There are just three rooms: Green (Oriental style), Blue, the largest, with walk-in wardrobe, and Yellow, with half-tester. Philip Parker’s dinners are based on what’s freshest that day. As much as possible – breads, preserves and so on – is home-made. 31 Howard Place, Carlisle, Cumbria CA1 1HR.

Hotel Swinside Lodge

Immaculately decorated and maintained, with attentive service and agreeable personal touches, this typical Victorian lakeland house makes an excellent country hotel. There is exhilarating walking right from the door. On your return, dinner is a no-choice, four-course, mildly adventurous delight. Newlands Valley, Keswick, Cumbria CA12 5UE. Map p77 D5.

Hotel Seatoller House

This is not a run-of-the-mill hotel, but, if you are convivial, it is a delight. Guests eat communally at set times, and, to get the best out of the place, should take part in its social life. A guesthouse for more than 100 years, it has simple bedrooms, a low-ceilinged sitting room, plain country dining room and good food. Seatoller, Borrowdale, Keswick, Cumbria CA12 5XN

Hotel Mil

l A 17th-century former mill cottage in lovely setting, with simple, airy bedrooms and a chintzy sitting room. Vegetarians are well catered for. Mungrisdale, Penrith, Cumbria CA11 0XR

Hotel Wasdale Head

Inn In a site unrivalled even in the Lake District, this robust old inn stands above deep, dramatic Wastwater. There are convivial bars, a comfortable lounge, a panelled dining room decorated with china and pewter. Mixture of simple bedrooms, all with bathrooms, and self-catering apartments. Wasdale Head, Gosforth, Cumbria CA20 1EX.

Hotel Gilpin Lodge

Notable for its high standards and attention to detail, Victorian Gilpin Lodge presents a fresh, white, flower-bedecked exterior. Its immaculate, cosy yet smart interior is embellished with many ornaments and flower arrangements. Some bedrooms have four-posters. Dinner included in price of room. Crook Rd, Windermere, Cumbria LA23 3NE

Hotel Mortal Man

Glorious views of Windermere from this friendly Lakeland inn. The bedrooms are functional; traditional bars, hearty food. Troutbeck, Windermere, Cumbria LA23 1PL.

Hotel Old Vicarage

This Georgian country house is hidden in a large wooded garden, and the owners have invested it with an easy-going atmosphere. The straightforward decoration combines new with old; five of the bedrooms have private terraces. Dinner is a highlight, using local ingredients in fresh and thoughtful ways, Witherslack, nr Grange-over-Sands, Cumbria LA11 6RS.

Hotel Amerdale House

The setting is one of the most seductive in all the Dales: on the fringe of a pretty village, wide meadows in front, high hills behind. This admirable hotel is distinguished by its warm welcome and exceptional cooking (dinner included in price of room). Best bedroom is the top-floor room with four-poster bed. Arncliffe, Littondale, Skipton, North Yorkshire BD23 5QE.

Hotel Old Church

The whitewashed 18th-century house on the shores of Ullswater has been in the care of Kevin Whitemore and his family since the late 1970s. They have created bold interiors, with a confident but harmonious use of colour in the bedrooms, most with lake views. Kevin is the cook, producing satisfying menus. Boating. Watermillock, Penrith, Cumbria CA11 0JN.

Hotel Holbeck Ghyll

The set-back position of this classic Victorian lakeland hotel provides welcome privacy from the bustle of Windermere, as well as grand lake views from the immaculate gardens. Traditional and rather formal in style, with a professional, friendly staff, it has mostly very spacious bedrooms and bathrooms. Holbeck Lane, Windermere, Cumbria LA23 1LU.

ALTHOUGH WALES NOW has its first cutting edge fivestar hotel, on Cardiff’s waterfront, this is a land best suited to the traditional country house establishment: warm, welcoming and above all, restful. Many places take advantage of the superb landscape of Wales, with views across tidal estuaries or of distant mountains. Some of the hotels we list – including a smattering of fine historic mansions – are in rolling border country. Others are along the beautiful coastline; others by the peaks of Snowdonia. Accommodation in Wales ranges from private ancestral homes, with a mere handful of rooms set aside for guests, to sophisticated retreats. Hearty Welsh breakfasts and good local cooking (with Welsh cheese a speciality) are often a feature.

Abersoch Hotels – Hotel Porth Tocyn

For 50 years, the Fletcher-Brewer family have run this excellent family-orientated hotel with magnificent views across Cardigan Bay and Snowdonia. The plain building was fashioned from a group of lead-miners’ cottages. Inside is a series of homely sitting rooms, and simple bedrooms, some interconnecting. Abersoch, Gwynedd LL53 7BU.

Cardiff Hotels – St David’s Spa

This swish waterfront establishment, which features a hydrotherapy centre and spa, is a five-star oasis, particularly for businessmen. The imposing structure is topped by an extraordinary flying tail fin; the interior is suitably nautical, cool and curvacious. Every room has a private bay-view deck. Havannah St, Cardiff CF10 5SD.

Brechfa Hotels – Ty Mawr

Smart farmhouse hotel. Bedrooms overlook garden. Under new management. Brechfa, Carmarthen, Carmarthenshire SA32 7RA.

Crickhowell Hotels – Bear Hotel

Bustling traditional inn situated in the centre of town. Well-run, with good food, comfortable bedrooms and warm atmosphere. High Street, Crickhowell, Powys NP8 1BW.

CAPEL GARMON Hotels – Tan-y-Foel

Beautiful and original country house in the heart of Snowdonia. Award-winning food. Capel Garmon, nr Betws-y-Coed, Llanrwst, Conwy

Fishguard Hotels – Hotel Three Main Street

Excellent, easy-going restaurant which serves light lunches and teas during the day. Three good bedrooms. 3 Main Street, Fishguard, Pembrokeshire SA65 9HG.

Eglwysfach Hotels – Hotel Ynyshir Hall

The house stands in glorious gardens next to the Ynyshir Bird Reserve and Dovey estuary. Its boldly coloured interior is the creation of owner Rob Reen, as are the striking paintings. The zesty Michelin-starred cooking is similarly adventurous. Bedrooms are named and furnished after famous artists. Eglwysfach, Machynlleth, Powys SY20 8TA.

Llandrillo Hotels – Tyddyn Llan

The warm and welcoming ambience is the mark of a country house hotel which gets it just right. Spacious sitting rooms furnished with style; and elegant dining room where imaginative dishes are served. The wellequipped bedrooms are enhanced by original pieces of furniture. Under new management. Llandrillo, Corwen, Denbighshire LL21 0ST.

Garthmyl Hotels – Garthmyl Hall

Designers Tim and Nancy Morrow have brought youthful, affordable flair to this handsome red-brick Georgian house. The velvety drawing room retains its ornate ceiling; there is a cosy library, and the bedrooms are cool, contemporary and perfectly judged. The food is simple but good, the ambience informal. Garthmyl, Montgomery, Powys SY15 6RS

Llandudno Hotels – Hotel Bodysgallen Hall

At the core of this 17th-century Grade I listed house is a 13th-century tower, which should be climbed for the view. There are impressive formal gardens, including a walled rose garden and a knot garden. Inside, the atmosphere is one of traditional and rather formal elegance, with corresponding – pricey – cuisine. Llandudno, Conwy LL30 1RS.

Fishguard Hotels – Hotel Tregynon

Cosy self-catering retreat with 16th-century farmhouse restaurant. Gwaun Valley, Fishguard, Pembrokeshire SA65 9TU

HARLECH Hotels – Hotel Castle Cottage

The plain exterior belies the traditional beamed interior of this friendly little hotel in the shadow of Harlech’s mighty castle. Yllech, Harlech, Gwynedd LL46 2YL.

GANLLWYD Hotels – Hotel Plas Dolmelynllyn

Excellent, easy-going restaurant which serves light lunches and teas during the day. Three good bedrooms. Ganllwyd, Dolgellau, Gwynedd LL40 2HP.

LLANBRYNMAIR Hotels – Hotel Barlings Barn

One large self-catering barn and health complex. Homemade supper dishes available; fabulous enclosed swimming pool. Llanbrynmair, Powys SY19 7DY

Llandudno Hotels – Hotel St Tudno

With 31 years at the helm, the Blands are meticulous in attending to every detail of this Victorian seafront hotel. Period charm is balanced with modern facilities, plus a long list of thoughtful extras which add to the sense of comfort. The food is right on target in the inviting dining room; the staff are young and attentive. Promenade, Llandudno, Conwy LL30 2LP.

Nant Gwynant Hotels – Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel

This charming old coach inn, set high in the heart of Snowdonia, is where Edmund Hillary and his team set up their training base before their attempt on Everest in 1953 – and it’s still run by the same family. Simple, warm and welcoming, with good, plain home cooking. Soak your muscles in the natural pool in the garden after a hard day on the hill, or relax in the sauna. Nant Gwynant, Gwynedd LL55 4NT.

Llansanffraid Glan Conwy Hotels – Hotel Old Rectory

This pretty Georgian rectory has two memorable assets: the glorious sweeping view across the Conwy estuary and the delicious cooking of Wendy Vaughan, supported by her husband’s intelligent wine list. Relax in the elegant wood-panelled sitting room. Oldfashioned bedrooms with grandiose beds. Llansanffraid Glan Conwy, Colwyn Bay, Conwy

Penally Hotels – Hotel Penally Abbey

Smart yet informal hotel in a Gothic-style country house next to a ruined medieval chapel. Commanding views of the Pembrokeshire coast. There’s a comfortable, well-furnished drawing room, a tall, candlelit dining room and a welcoming bar. Some bedrooms are grand; all are freshly decorated. Penally, Tenby, Pembrokeshire SA70 7PY.

LLANDDEINIOLEN Hotels – Hotel Ty’n Rhos

A quiet, traditional, well-run country hotel. New conference centre. Seion, Llanddeiniolen, Caernarfon, Gwynedd LL55 3AE. Map p74 B2

LLANTHONY Hotels – Abbey Hotel

A chance to sleep in a unique piece of history at these ancient Prior’s quarters. Sixty spiral steps lead to the highest bedroom. Llanthony, Abergavenny, Gwent NP7 7NN

LLANGAMMARCH WELLS Hotels – Hotel Lake

A grand country house hotel, with polished service and plenty of activities. Llangammarch Wells, Powys LD4 4BS.

LLYSWEN Hotels – Hotel Llangoed Hall

Luxury hotel in Clough Williams- Ellis mansion created by Laura Ashley’s husband. Llyswen, Brecon, Powys LD3 0YP

Penmaenpool Hotels – Hotel Penmaenuchaf Hall

A sturdy grey stone Victorian manor set in 21 acres of grounds on the south bank of the Mawddach estuary, with wonderful views across Snowdonia. Rose and water gardens add yet more charm. The interior continues to be imposing yet welcoming and standards are exceptionally high. Penmaenpool, Dolgellau, Gwynedd LL40 1YB

Reynoldston Hotels – Fairyhill Hotel

A quiet and civilized retreat in the heart of the Gower Peninsula. Set in vast grounds – much of them still semi-wild – it features a walled garden, orchard, trout stream and lake. A series of spacious public rooms lead to the dining room, where fine food might include Penclawdd cockles, Welsh lamb and laverbread. Reynoldston, Swansea SA3 1BS.

Portmeirion Hotel

‘Magical’ is the most apposite word to describe the hotel at the centre of Clough Williams-Ellis’s enchanting fantasy village. The heady ensemble mixes Wales (bilingual staff and menus, harpist), Capri (Italianate gardens, statues, columns) and Rajasthan (Indian fabrics, paintings, objects). Improving reports of the food. Portmeirion, Gwynedd LL48 6ET.

St Brides Wentlooge Hotels – Hotel West Usk Lighthouse

A B&B to visit for novelty value, and for very good breakfasts. You will have spent the night in a wedge-shaped portion of an unusual 1821 lighthouse. You may also have slept in a waterbed, showered in a red telephone box, had an aromatherapy massage and soaked away your cares in a flotation tank. St Brides Wentlooge, Newport NP1 9SF.

NERCWYS Hotels – Hotel Tower

B&B in historic castellated border house, the ancestral home of the owners. Baronial rooms, and a dining room hook from which the Mayor of Chester was hung in 1465. Mold, Flintshire CH7 4EW.

TALSARNAU Hotels – Maes-y-Neuadd Hotel

600-year-old granite manor house with panelled walls, comfortable public rooms and luxurious bedrooms. Talsarnau, Gwynedd LL47 6YA.

RUTHIN Hotels – Hotel Eyarth Station

A former railway station transformed into a cheerful B&B. Fine views across the valley, and outdoor pool. Llanfair D C, Ruthin, Denbighshire LL15 2EE

Three Cocks Hotel

Characterful inn with a palpable Belgian influence supplied by its Belgian-born owner and her chef husband. Three Cocks, Brecon, Powys LD3 0SL.

Achiltibuie hotels

Hotel Summer Isles

The very remote, cottage-like hotel has a Michelin star for its impressive cookery, which makes much use of fresh local fish; the cheeseboard is justly famous. Only seven of the rooms have a TV. If possible, go for the suite: it has a spiral staircase, huge bathroom and breathtaking views. Achiltibuie, Ullapool, Ross-shire IV26 2YG.

Auchterarde Hotels

Gleneagles Hotel

This spectacular Art Deco hotel was built in the 1920s as the ‘playground of the gods’. Intimate it is not; occupied you will certainly be, with a raft of activities, both leisure and sporting, now on offer (including, of course, the worldclass golf which made the hotel’s name). Suites and ‘Estate Rooms’ are nicest, but very expensive. Auchterarder, Perthshire PH3 1NF.

Ballater Hotels

Darroch Learg Hotel

An imposing Victorian country house hotel, splendidly situated and easy-going. Noted for its inventive food and excellent wines. Braemar Rd, Ballater, Aberdeenshire AB35 5UX.

Bunchrew Hotels

Bunchrew House

A pink sandstone turreted mansion with large, comfortable bedrooms and a rather formal dining room. Bunchrew, Inverness-shire IV3 8TA

Balquhidder Hotels

Monachyle Mhor

17th-century farmhouse by Loch Voil, run with verve by the Lewis family. Balquhidder, Lochearnhead, Perthshire FK19 8PQ.

Isle of Colonsay Hotel

Perfect island life: away from it all in a warmly civilized house serving good fresh food. Cycling, fishing, golf, sailing. Isle of Colonsay, Argyll PA61 7YP

BLAIRGOWRIE Hotels

Hotel Kinloch House

The early Victorian country house, adorned with a neatly trimmed creeper on the outside and pincushion-neat inside, is set in wooded parkland and has a fine walled garden. The atmosphere is quiet, the staff traditionally dressed, the rooms furnished with antiques. Bar for cocktails or a wee dram; conservatory. Blairgowrie, Perthshire PH10 6SG.

COMRIA HOTELS

Royal Hotel

In an endearing village, well placed for touring, this 18th-century former coaching inn became ‘royal’ when Queen Victoria stayed. Today it is a beautifully presented, traditional hotel with an eye for modern tastes and a cool yet homely ambience: heavy iron bedsteads are offset by pale walls and gleaming wooden floors. Melville Square, Comrie, Perthshire PH6 2DN.

COLBOST, ISLE OF SKYE HOTELS

Hotel Three Chimneys

Long-established as one of Skye’s best restaurants – with the emphasis on fish – Three Chimneys can now count itself the island’s most interesting hotel. A new annexe, called the House Over-By, houses six contemporary suites, designed to blend with the magical views across water and mountains. Colbost, Dunvegan, Isle of Skye, IV55 8ZT.

Dunkeld Hotels

Hotel Kinnaird

This Edwardian mansion harks back to a more gracious age, with modern requirements subtly blended in: the dining room is decorated with frescoes, bedrooms are spacious and luxurious. The River Tay (fishing possible) flows through the estate. Also self-catering cottages. Kinnaird Estate, Dunkeld, Perthshire PH8 0LB.

DRUMNADROCHIT Hotels

Hotel Polmaily House

Secluded hotel near Loch Ness; both adults and children are well taken care of. Horse riding; sailing yachts on Loch Ness. Drumnadrochit, Inverness-shire IV63 6TL.

FOrt William Hotels

Hotel Grange

Jessica Lange stayed in this B&B while filming Rob Roy. Maybe she had the Turret Room, but all are charming with lovely loch views. Grange Rd, Fort William, Inverness-shire PH33 6JF.

Eriska Hotels

Isle of Eriska Hotel

Close to Oban and connected to the mainland by a road bridge, Eriska feels a world away, and the family-run baronial house is a pleasant echo of the Victorian age. High tea is served at 6pm in old-fashioned public rooms. The bedrooms are light and mainly spacious. Families can expect a warm welcome. Private golf course. Eriska, Ledaig, Oban, Argyll PA37 1SD.

Glasgow Hotels

Hotel Malmaison

Cosmopolitan chic and value for money are the hallmarks of the Malmaison chain; this one created a very useful address. 278 West George Street, Glasgow G2 4LL.

ISLE ORNSAY Hotels

Hotel Eilean Iarmain

Traditional 19th-century seaside inn with a Gaelic feel. Wonderful views from the comfy bedrooms and public rooms. Sleat, Isle of Skye, Highland IV43 8QR.

Kentallen Hotels

Ardsheal House

Set above Loch Linnhe, with stunning views. Hospitable, slightly old-fashioned; guest rooms are decorated with family antiques. Kentallen of Appin, Argyll PA38 4BX.

Fort William Hotels

Hotel Inverlochy Castle

Set in the foothills of Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain, Inverlochy prompted Queen Victoria to write: ‘I never saw a lovelier or more romantic spot.’ A hotel for 35 years, the Scottish Baronial pile is neither intimidating nor stuffy, but deeply, elegantly luxurious. Superb food; tennis, billiards, fishing. Torlundy, Fort William, Inverness-shire PH33 6SN.

Gullane Hotels

Greywalls Hotel

An obvious choice for golfers, since it overlooks the 10th green of the Muirfield course, this immaculate honey-stoned, crescent-shaped building was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens. The feel is still one of an elegant private house; the panelled library is particularly appealing. Refined dinners and hearty breakfasts. Muirfield, Gullane, East Lothian EH31 2EG.

Glasgow Hotels

One Devonshire Gardens

Even among London’s myriad town house hotels, One Devonshire Gardens would stand out. It comprises four handsome houses on a busy road close to the city centre. Step inside, and the effect is one of richly coloured opulence. Gordon Ramsay recently took over the hotel restaurant. One Devonshire Gardens, Glasgow G12 0UX.

KILCHRENAN Hotels

Hotel Taychreggan

A sophisticated hideaway in a sensational setting on the banks of Loch Awe. Peace and quiet are assured: it’s approached by a seven-mile single-track road. The hotel’s core is an old stone drovers’ inn, with buildings arranged around a central courtyard. Smart decor with rather loud modern art on the walls. Kilchrenan, by Tainuilt, Argyll PA35 1HQ

Hotel Kildrummy Castle

Large Victorian building, set in lovely gardens overlooking a castle ruin. Kildrummy, Alford, Aberdeenshire AB33 8RA.

KIRKUDBRIGHT Hotels

Gladstone House

Excellent B&B in an appealing town. It is decorated with taste and makes a civilized place to stay, with bountiful breakfasts. 48 High St, Kirkcudbright, Dumfries and Galloway DG6 4JX.

Killiecrankie Hotels

Killiecrankie House

A modest Scottish country hotel, perfectly placed for watching out for wildlife, including red squirrels and roe deer. Killiecrankie, by Pitlochry, Perthshire PH16 5LG.

Muir of Ord Hotels

Dower House

An elegant private home noted for its attentive owners and good food. Highfield, Muir of Ord, Ross-shire IV6 7XN.

Maybole Hotels

Culzean Castle

On a windswept clifftop, Robert Adam’s last masterpiece (c.1785). The top floor was given by Scotland to the late ex-US President Eisenhower for his lifetime, and is now a small hotel. It includes a wonderful circular sitting room with views to Arran and Mull of Kintyre. Or you can rent the entire apartment for a private party. Culzean Castle, Maybole, Ayrshire KA19 8LE

PORT APPIN Hotels

Airds Hotel

Airds is an old ferry inn in a pretty waterfront village, with spectacular views across Loch Linnhe to the hills beyond. It’s a sophisticated place, with a flower-filled conservatory and a Michelin-starred kitchen. Dinner included in price. Afternoon tea is served. Under new management. Port Appin, Appin, Argyll PA38 4DF.

Nairn Hotels

Clifton House

Though it’s not unusual to find hotels with a theatrical touch, this hotel is a theatre, staging concerts and recitals in the dining room during winter. The Victorian house is richly furnished, the bedrooms with a mix of antiques and painted pieces. Dinner, bed and breakfast (all included) is the only available package. Viewfield St, Nairn, Nairnshire IV12 4HW.

Portpatrick Hotels

Knockinaam Lodge

This is a most comfortable place to get away from the hurly burly, or perhaps take a break en route to the Stranraer ferry. Set in a remote wooded glen, its lawned garden runs down to a sandy cove. Peace reigns, both in the smart public rooms and the large, dignified bedrooms. Michelin-starred cuisine. Portpatrick, Wigtownshire, Dumfries and Galloway

Pitlochry Hotels

Knockendarroch House

A château-style house run by gracious and welcoming hosts. Set on a plateau above the town, the views are spectacular. Higher Oakfield, Pitlochry, Perthshire PH16 5HT.

Skirling Hotels

Skirling House

A fascinating Arts and Crafts house surrounded by lovely gardens. Superb dinner-party-style food; sympathetic hosts. Skirling, Biggar, Lanarkshire ML12 6HD.

Isle of Skye Hotels

Viewfield House

Distinctive guesthouse, home of the Macdonalds, run on house-party lines and full of colonial memorabilia. Portree, Isle of Skye IV51 9EU.

Kinloch Lodge

Home of Lord and Lady Macdonald; guests stay either in the Lodge or the New House, which is every bit as gracious. Sleat, Isle of Skye IV43 8QY

Isle of Harris Hotels

Scarista House

The manse stands alone on a windswept slope overlooking the Atlantic. The decoration is quite formal, but the atmosphere is relaxed and conversation replaces television. Two of the bedrooms are in a separate single-storey building. A great attraction, as well as the solitude, is the mostly organic food. Scarista, Isle of Harris, Western Isles HS3 3HX.

Tarbert Hotels

Skipness Castle

The ‘castle’ is a fine 13th-century Scottish Norman keep adjoining the beautifully furnished home of Libby and Nick James, which rose, phoenix-like, from the ashes of the original Victorian mansion, severely damaged by fire in 1969. Magical views across Kilbrannan Sound. Excellent seafood in the James’s Seafood Cabin. NSkipness by Tarbert, Argyll

Strachur Hotels

Creggans Inn

On the opposite side of Loch Fyne from the whisky town of Inverary, this historic country hotel is distinguished by its award-winning food and stylishly refurbished rooms, as well as its enthusiast’s wine list and exceptional range of whiskies. Breathtaking scenery, a warm welcome and charming decor. Strachur, Argyll PA27 8BX

SHETLAND ISLANDS Hotels

Burrastow House

A long, single-track road through Burrastow’s spacious grounds ends at a remote spot by a rocky shore. In this isolated setting, the calm, solid stone house exudes a genuinely friendly and welcoming ambience. After a day in the open, everyone appreciates Bo Simmons’s comforting food. Walls, Shetland ZE2 9PD.

SPEAN BRIDGE HOTELS

Corriegour Lodge

Anglers, walkers, climbers, pony trekkers and sailors will love this former hunting lodge with spectacular views over the Loch. Loch Lochy, by Spean Bridge, Inverness-shire PH34 4EB.

UIG ISLE OF LEWIS Hotels

Baile-na-Cille Hotel

The relaxed, beautifully set 18th-century manse makes a special guesthouse. Timsgarry, Uig, Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides HS2 9JD.

Ullapool Hotels

Ceilidh Place

Happy centre of music, song, theatre, food, and more. Beds and bunks. West Argyle St, Ullapool, Ross-shire IV26 2TY

Strontian Hotels

Kilcamb Lodge

Pleasant country house hotel on the shores of Loch Sunart. A welcoming bar and updated dining area sets the tone. Strontian, Argyll PH36 4HY

In the heart of the city, baronial grandeur, modern luxury and fine dining. 1 Princes St, Edinburgh EH2 2EQ.

Hotel Albany

Peaceful Georgian terrace close to Princes Street. Pleasant bedrooms, sparkling bathrooms. 39 Albany St, Edinburgh EH1 3QY.

Hotel Bonham

In the same ownership as the Howard, the townhouse hotel is situated in a leafy side street close to the city centre. It has been equipped for the 21st century, with communications technology installed in the calm, contemporary bedrooms; these also feature original paintings by young Scottish artists. 35 Drumsheugh Gardens, Edinburgh EH3 7RN.

Witchery by the Castle

Vivienne Westwood, Jack Nicholson, Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones have stayed here – so it’s good enough for you. Why the Witchery? – because hundreds of ‘witches’ were burned at the stake nearby. The only thing to burn now will be a hole in your pocket. Award-winning restaurant. Castlehill, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh EH1 2NF.

Hotel Howard

The most luxurious of three Edinburgh hotels in the same stable (see also The Bonham, below left), The Howard is a made up of three richly decorated terraced townhouses. Original features include romantic Italianate frescoes in the breakfast room. All guests are assigned their own personal butler. 34 Great King St, Edinburgh EH3 6QH

YORKSHIRE • LANCASHIRE NORTHUMBERLAND • LAKE DISTRICT

THE LAKE DISTRICT and the Yorkshire Dales are the areas of Northern England which have the largest number of visitors and the greatest concentration of places to stay. Windermere, in particular, offers a bewildering choice; we recommend the best and most secluded. But don’t overlook the rest of this region, which stretches north from the mouth of the River Humber to the Scottish borders: not least Northumberland and the North Yorkshire Moors for their rugged beauty, nor the cathedral cities of Durham and York. Wherever our entries are situated, they range from luxurious hideaways to plain, no-nonsense inns and are often in dramatic settings, perfect for walkers and lovers of the great outdoors.

Hotel Linthwaite House

Glorious lake views and fine grounds. A consummate, pampering hotel. Crook Rd, Bowness-on-Windermere, Cumbria LA23 3JA.

Yorkshire Hotels – Hotel Crathorne Hall

Edwardian stately home, now part of the Hand Picked Hotels group, set in wooded grounds overlooking River Leven. Crathorne, Yarm, North. Yorkshire TS15 0AR.

Foresters Arms

 Atmospheric pub in a stone-built Dales village. Noted for its good food. NCarlton-in-Coverdale, Leyburn, North Yorkshire DL8 4BB

Hotel Lindeth Fell

Large mature gardens glowing with azaleas and rhododendrons in spring, tremendous views, and a warm, courteous welcome from Pat and Diana Kennedy at this comfortable country house. Wood-panelled hall, two sitting rooms, and pleasingly decorated bedrooms. Drinks and tea can be taken on the terrace. Bowness-on-Windermere, Cumbria LA23 3JP .

Hotel Georgian Town House

Town-centre Georgian house decorated with flair (and a profusion of stencils). Breakfasts are taken in the conservatory. 10-11 Crossgate, Durham, Co. Durham DH1 4PS.

Hotel Farlam Hall

Though mainly Victorian, the roots of this elegant Borders house are Elizabethan. Set in rolling countryside, it is beautifully furnished and imbued with a traditional, discreet atmosphere. In the dining room, superb dinners (included in price of room) range from plain country dishes to mild extravagances. Brampton, Cumbria CA8 2NG.

Cumbria Hotels – Hotel Hipping Hall

Guests can eat communally in the splendid beamed Great Hall with minstrels’ gallery. After a day on the fells, sink into sofas around a wood-burning stove at the other end of the Hall. Bedrooms are spacious. Child-friendly. Pets allowed in the cottages. Cowan Bridge, Kirkby Lonsdale, Cumbria LA6 2JJ.

North Yorkshire  Hotels – Star Inn

Michelin-starred restaurant with accommodation across the road in Cross House Lodge and Black Eagle Cottages. Outstanding. Harome, nr Helmsley, North Yorkshire YO62 5JE.

Hotel Headlam Hall

Creeper-covered Jacobean house in formal gardens; popular for functions. Headlam, Gainford, Darlington, Co. Durham DL2 3HA.

Hotel 42

The Calls The converted riverside corn mill is the place to stay in Leeds. Stylishly contemporary, amusingly different, it retains original features such as beams, girders, bare brick walls and the odd hoist. Bedrooms and bathrooms are wellequipped. At weekends, some meals available by means of room service only. 42 The Calls, Leeds, West Yorkshire LS2 7EW.

Hotel Winder Hall

Beautiful manor house with a 17thcentury façade and many period features. Fine bedrooms; good food. Low Lorton, Cockermouth, Cumbria CA13 9UP.

Harrogate Hotels -Hotel Boar’s Head

Opened in the late 1980s by the present residents of Ripley Castle, Sir Thomas and Lady Ingilby, this former inn has elegant, even sumptuous, interiors, augmented by ancestral portraits and ornaments. The candlelit dining room is romantic, and the cooking is taken very seriously. Ripley Castle Estate, Harrogate HG3 3AY.

Romaldkirk Hotels – Hotel Rose and Crown

This thriving former coaching inn, set on the village inn, is noted for the modish English food. Eat in the wood-panelled, candlelit dining room, then withdraw to the rustic bar, with log fires, old photographs and much brass. Courtyard rooms are modern; those in the main building more characterful. Romaldkirk, Barnard Castle, Co. Durham DL12 9EB

Cumbria hotels – Hotel Sharrow Bay

For more than 50 years, Sharrow Bay has been famed for its food, service, luxury and lakeside setting. It claims to have been the world’s first country house hotel, and to have the finest views in the Lake District. Nigel Lightburn, involved with the hotel for more than 30 years, is now in charge. New garden wing recently added. Ullswater, Penrith, Cumbria CA10 2LZ

Hotel Malmaison

The converted warehouse is one in a chain of hotels representing excellent value. Slick rooms are equipped with all the latest requisites. 104 Quayside, Newcastle upon Tyne, Tyne & Wear NE1 3DX.

Hotel Ees Wyke

In a glorious spot above Esthwaite Water; grand views. Old-fashioned in the best sense, and lovingly cared for. Welcoming owners. Near Sawrey, Hawkshead, Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 0JZ

Hotel Inn at Whitewell

Just the right note is struck at this mellow Forest of Bowland inn. The owners ensure a relaxed, unstuffy atmosphere, extending an equally warm welcome to adults, children and pets. The decoration is full of good taste, particularly in the bedrooms – some of which have peat fires. Most have videos, CD players and impressive bathrooms. Fly fishing. Whitewell, Clitheroe, Lancashire BB7 3AT

Hotel Gilpin Lodge

Notable for its high standards and attention to detail, Victorian Gilpin Lodge presents a fresh, white, flower-bedecked exterior. Its immaculate, cosy yet smart interior is embellished with many ornaments and flower arrangements. Some bedrooms have four-posters. Dinner included in price of room. Crook Rd, Windermere, Cumbria LA23 3NE

Hotel River House

Characterful hotel, set beside a tidal estuary. Two hooded 19th-century baths. Skippool Creek, Thornton-le-Fylde, nr Blackpool, Lancashire FY5 5LF.

Hotel Manor House

Late-Victorian house in tranquil position. Elaborate food; long wine list. Northlands, Walkington, East Yorkshire HU17 8RT.

Hotel Storrs Hall

A change of ownership a while back gave a new and opulent lease of life to this spectacularly positioned Georgian pile, built to look like an Italian villa. Beautifully proportioned rooms are filled with antiques, paintings, rare books and model ships. Storrs Park, Bowness-on-Windermere, Cumbria LA23 3LG.

Hotel Middlethorpe Hall

The magnificent William III house, once home of diarist Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, is now part of Historic House Hotels, which transforms important buildings into places to stay. One feels special just walking in, yet the atmosphere is not intimidating. Set in large garden and parkland not far from centre of York. Bishopthorpe Rd, York YO23 2GB

Hotel Samling

Luxurious country house hotel with wonderful views over Lake Windermere. NAmbleside Road, Windermere, Cumbria LA23 1LR.

Hotel Winteringham Fields

A 16th-century manor house, whose owners have created an alluring formula: highly praised food, lovely bedrooms. Winteringham, North Lincolnshire DN15 9PF.

Cumbria hotels – Hotel White Moss House

Renowned for its cuisine, with pretty bedrooms (two in a secluded cottage). In the Wordsworth family until the 1930s. Rydal Water, Grasmere, Cumbria LA22 9SE.

STRETCHING BETWEEN the Thames Valley in the south and a line drawn east-west from the mouth of the Humber river, Central England encompasses idyllic rural landscapes and great cathedral and university cities such as Lincoln, Manchester and Oxford. In the quintessentially English Cotswolds you will find fine places to stay in every category, from meltingly beautiful manor houses to enchanting vine-clad inns; the East Anglian counties of Norfolk and Suffolk also have a wide choice. Elsewhere there are smart townhouse hotels, a smattering of stately homes-turned-hotels and a tempting selection of country houses, located in widely differing yet easily accessible settings, and perfect for a restful few days.

Hotel Fischer’s Baslow Hall

A 1907 mock-Elizabethan house has become a Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms under the aegis of chef Max Fischer and his wife Susan, an excellent hostess. The food is the point of the place (you can eat more simply in Café Max) but the smart bedrooms make a perfectly good overnight base. Calver Rd, Baslow, Derbyshire DE45 1RR.

Hotel Manorhouse

This spacious B&B in a beautiful 15th-century Suffolk longhouse overlooks the village green. It’s an elegant, but down-to-earth place – the half-timbered, colourwashed rooms are filled with antiques, but outside, chickens have the run of the gravelled yard, and provide most of the eggs served at breakfast. Dinner on request; or it’s a short stroll to the village pubs. Beyton, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk IP30 9AF

Hotel Callow Hall

l Above the Dove valley, a Victorian country house and grounds, lovingly restored. Comfortable and well-run, with good food. Mappleton, Ashbourne, Derbyshire DE6 2AA

Hotel Chapel House

A quiet address (church bells excepted) in an old market town. Walled garden, light bedrooms, enjoyable food. Friar’s Gate, Atherstone, Warwickshire CV9 1EY

Hotel Riverside

This stone-built, creeper-clad country house has secluded grounds bordering the River Wye. Accommodation is luxurious. Ashford-in-the-Water, Bakewell, Derbyshire DE45 1QF.

Hotel Cavendish

Owned by the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, and overlooking their estate, Chatsworth. Homely rather than grand. Baslow, Derbyshire DE45 1SP.

Hotel Malt House

In a tiny Cotswold hamlet, comprising little more than church and pub, is this delightful 17th-century stone house. There are low, beamed ceilings and leaded windows overlooking a dream garden. The attractive bedrooms include a garden suite. Under new management. Broad Campden, Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire GL55 6UU.

Hotel Lamb

Most guests agree that the Lamb gets it just right, combining the convivial atmosphere of a cosy traditional pub with the comforts of a hotel. The beamed bedrooms are surprisingly spacious, decorated with floral fabrics and antiques. The daily-changing menus are served in a dining room overlooking a geranium-filled patio. Elsewhere are comfy sofas and log fires. Sheep St, Burford, Oxfordshire OX18 4LR.

Hotel Burford House

This 15th-century Cotswold stone and timbered building positively gleams with care and attention. The smart bedrooms (some with four-posters) are awash with polished furniture, glossy magazines, flowers, teddies, lotions, sachets and the like. Light lunches and teas are served in the adjacent restaurant. 99 High St, Burford, Oxfordshire OX18 4QA.

Hotel Brockencote Hall

Close to the M5/M42 motorways, this lakeside mansion has a fair proportion of business guests, but Anglo-French owners Alison and Joseph Petitjean ensure a discreetly privileged ambience. This is amply reflected in the decoration, which has distinctly French flourishes. Excellent for disabled guests. Chaddesley Corbett, Kidderminster, Worcestershire DY10 4PY.

Hotel Bibury Court

Beautiful, affordable Jacobean mansion in idyllic riverside setting (fishing rods available). Atmospheric, if simple, rooms. Bibury, Gloucestershire GL7 5NT.

Hotel Buckland Manor

One of the Cotswolds’ most exclusive hotels; lavish bedrooms. Buckland, nr Broadway, Worcestershire WR12 7LY.

Hotel Hoste Arms

Buzzing, characterful local inn, sometimes very busy, with attractive bedrooms. The Green, Burnham Market, Norfolk PE31 8HD.

Hotel Ounce House

Meals are taken round a long table in this elegant Victorian house. It’s in the town centre, with a large garden and private parking. Northgate St, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk IP33 1HP.

Hotel on the Park

Despite some twee touches (two teddies centre stage in the dining room, plastic ducks artfully placed in bathrooms), this is a stylish establishment. The spacious bedrooms are embellished by sumptuous fabrics and antiques, although, at the front, traffic noise can destroy the calm so carefully engendered within. 38 Evesham Rd, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL52 2AH. Map

Hotel Cley Mill

Memories of your favourite childrens’ adventure stories crowd in as you climb ever higher in this ‘real’ windmill, finally mounting the ladder to the look-out room. The views over Cley Marshes, a bird-watchers’ paradise, are superb. In the pretty, rustic bedrooms, bathrooms are fitted into the most challenging spaces. Dishes include fresh fish and samphire in season. Cley-next-the-Sea, Holt, Norfolk NR25 7RP

Hotel Cotswold House

Each of the scrupulously detailed bedrooms has a different theme, such as regimental souvenirs in ‘Military’ or lace in ‘Aunt Lizzy’. All have impeccable bathrooms. There is a magnificent spiral staircase, a walled garden and two snazzy dining rooms, one a brasserie. The Square, Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire GL55 6AN

Hotel Corse Lawn House

Should you arrive in a coach and four, you could still drive it down the slipway of this old coaching inn to water the horses and wash the carriage. Instead you will probably be content to enjoy the advantages of this relaxed, long-favourite, recently refurbished country hotel. Bedrooms are large. Corse Lawn, Gloucestershire GL19 4LZ.

Hotel lough

A mellow Elizabethan inn with a glossy interior. Bedrooms (two with four-poster beds) vary in size. Sophisticated cooking. Bourton Rd, Clanfield, Bampton, Oxfordshire OX18 2RB.

Hotel Tudor Farmhouse

Cosy, neat and simple, with fine oak spiral staircase; breakfast a minor feast. Clearwell, Coleford, Gloucestershire GL16 8JS.

Hotel New Inn at Coln

The epitome of a creeper-clad 16th-century Cotswold inn, now smart, glossy, sophisticated and highly successful. Coln St-Aldwyns, Cirencester, Gloucestershire GL7 5AN.

Hotel Cleeve Hill

Bob and Georgie Tracy’s well-kept Edwardian-style B&B has superb views from the spacious bedrooms. Notable breakfasts. Cleeve Hill, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL52 3PR.

Hotel The Manor

House The sleepy village lives up to its name, and this low-key hotel, hidden behind high stone walls beside the church, is easy to miss. It’s a quiet, restrained, relaxing sort of place, of mixed vintage, with a hotch-potch of squashy armchairs in the sitting room, comfortable bedrooms and a traditional English menu. Barsham Rd, Great Snoring, Norfolk NR21 0HP

Hotel Victoria at Holkham

Named after the Empress of India, the Victoria is an eclectic but stylish blend of the colonial and the local. Many of the furnishings have been flown in from Rajasthan, so there’s a strong sense of the exotic. Seriously comfy beds, big, warm duvets and deep baths for a serious soak. Good food, long wine list. Park Road, Holkham, Norfolk NR23 1RG.

Hotel Hambleton Hall

For a sybaritic break in the grandest sort of country hotel, this is a prime contender. A former Victorian shooting lodge, it stands isolated on Rutland Water. It is decorated in glamorous, yet intimate fashion, with stylish bedrooms and a formal dining room serving excellent food. Terrace with views of the lake. Hambleton, Oakham, Rutland LE15 8TH.

Hotel Upper Court

The lovely grounds of this wellloved family home (open to the public under the National Garden Scheme) include a ruined watermill, a lake and a tennis court. The Georgian manor, furnished in country house style, is popular for self-catering house parties; single bookings no longer accepted. Kemerton, Tewkesbury, Gloucestershire GL20 7HY

Hotel Delbury Hall

In lovely countryside and grounds, this gracious Georgian mansion overlooking a lake is also a friendly family home. Diddlebury, Shropshire SY7 9DH.

Hotel Bodkin Lodge

Walk the wildlife trails on the owners’ conservation farm; stay in their light, airy home, with views to Lincoln Cathedral. Grange Farm, Torrington Lane, East Barkwith, Market Rasen, Lincolnshire LN8 5RY.

Hotel George

A spruce 15th-century coaching inn (old beams, open fires), one of the country’s oldest, opposite the abbey in a delightful village. Dorchester-on-Thames, Oxfordshire OX10 7HH.

Hotel Wind in the Willows

Welcoming, family-run establishment. Thoughtful touches in the bedrooms. Peace, quiet and total relaxation. Derbyshire Level, Glossop, Derbyshire SK13 7PT.

Hotel Langar Hall

The owner of this idiosyncratic family-home-turned-hotel, Imogen Skirving, has an eye for beautiful things and a taste for fun. Her apricot-coloured house in the Vale of Belvoir has a homely yet uplifting atmosphere. The rather grand restaurant is adorned with classsical statues; the bedrooms are highly individual. Langar, Nottinghamshire NG13 9HG.

Hotel Great House

This very English building (15th-century, with a Georgian façade) has a French accent, brought to it by its owners, Régis and Martine Crépy, and their largely French staff. The raison d’être is the often very busy restaurant, but the rooms are restful and smart, with surprisingly luxurious marble bathrooms. Market Place, Lavenham, Suffolk CO10 9QZ

Hotel Lavenham Priory

The Grade I listed building is one of the finest in this charming half-timbered town. Owners Tim and Gilli Pitt can offer three delightful bedrooms to guests (dinner by arrangement). Choose between a lit bateau, a four-poster and a Polonaise bed. Downstairs, the sitting room boasts a huge inglenook fireplace. Water St, Lavenham, Suffolk CO10 9RW.

Hotel Grey Cottage

The 175-year-old stone cottage with a 100ft sequoia in the garden stands out for the attention to detail paid by its owner, Rosemary Reeves. From the carefully prepared dinners to the firm beds, reliable hot water, heated towel rails and fresh fruit in the bedrooms, everything reflects her friendly, helpful attitude. Bath Road, Leonard Stanley, Stonehouse, Gloucestershire GL10 3LU

Hotel D’Isney Place

This spruce Georgian house is on a busy street close to Lincoln Cathedral. Though it has a garden, which incorporates a 700-year-old tower, it has no public rooms. Breakfast is delivered to guests in their bedrooms. Rooms vary; the best have carefully co-ordinated fabrics and whirlpool baths. Eastgate, Lincoln LN2 4AA

Hotel Malmaison

This growing chain of city hotels offers notable value for money. The wellequipped rooms are cool and fresh in a modern, rather masculine style. Public facilities include a mini-spa and hi-tech gym, a jazzy bar and a French brasserie. A major new extension is now complete. Piccadilly, Manchester M1 3AQ

Hotel Old Bell

Reputed to be the oldest inn in England, the Old Bell was set up in the 13th century to serve refreshments to visitors to the nearby abbey. It now offers a variety of places to eat, period bedrooms and comfortable lounges – all decorated with antique furniture and specially commissioned paintings. Children very welcome. Abbey Row, Malmesbury, Wiltshire SN16 0AG.

Hotel Melbourn Bury

Lush parkland surrounds this whitewashed and crenellated manor house. Inside are an elegant drawing room and splendid Victorian billiard room, book-lined library and sunny conservatory. Of the three bedrooms, the ‘pink room’ is particularly delightful, with a large bathroom. Communal dining, dinner-party style. Melbourn, Cambridgeshire SG8 6DE

Hotel Old Rectory

The elegant home of Roma Villar, an excellent cook. Beautiful wooded valleys to explore nearby. Hopesay, Craven Arms, Shropshire SY7 8HD.

Hotel Holdfast Cottage

A Victorian farmhouse with the cosy intimacy of a cottage. Lovely garden. Marlbank Rd, Little Malvern, Worcestershire WR13 6NA.

Hotel Penhros Court

A 700-year-old manor farm incorporating a superb medieval cruck hall. Charming bedrooms and inspired organic food. Kington, Herefordshire HR5 3LH.

Number 28

Bedrooms are distributed across three separate period houses at this excellent B&B. A useful base for visiting historic Ludlow. 28 Lower Broad St, Ludlow, Shropshire SY8 1PQ.

Hotel Morston Hall

Dominating the ground floor of this brick and flint Norfolk house is the strikingly decorated restaurant, the establishment’s main attraction and holder of a Michelin star. Enjoy a seasonal dinner (included in price of room) before retiring to one of the (mostly) spacious bedrooms; one is small. Morston, Holt, Norfolk NR25 7AA.

Hotel Old Bank

Metropolitan chic has arrived amongst the dreaming spires in the guise of this classy new hotel done out in cool creams and caramels. Bathrooms are luxurious. The hotel’s centrepiece is the former banking hall – now a buzzing bar and brasserie, The Quod. Sitting room, bar, terrace and private parking. 92-94 High Street, Oxford OX1 4BN.

Hotel Beetle and Wedge

A delight in summer when the Thames-side setting comes into its own – Jerome K. Jerome wrote Three Men in a Boat here. To eat, choose from the brasserie-style Boathouse or the more formal Dining Room; in fine weather the Watergarden is open. Bedrooms are spacious, interesting, and individually furnished. Ferry Lane, Moulsford, Wallingford, Oxfordshire OX10 9JF.

Hotel Old Parsonage

No themed ‘olde worlde’ charm here, despite the great age of the building. The rather small bedrooms are prettily decorated with pale panelling and unfussy chintz, with marble bathrooms (with telephone). The bar/restaurant has a clubby, cosmopolitan feel. A welcoming, laid-back, well-run hotel. 1 Banbury Rd, Oxford OX2 6NN

Hotel Cottage in the Wood

Three buildings, at whose heart is a Georgian dower house. Setting is all. Holywell Rd, Malvern Wells, Worcestershire WR14 4LG.

Hotel Hodgkinson’s

The dull exterior belies a kitsch, amusing interior, filled with eye-catching objects. N 150 South Parade, Matlock Bath, Matlock, Derbyshire DE4 3NR.

Hotel Didsbury Park

Luxurious city chic 15 minutes from the centre of Manchester. 11 Didsbury Park, Didsbury Village, Manchester M20 5LH.

Hotel Pipps Ford

Country guesthouse at its best: home produced bread, honey, vegetables and more in a lovely Tudor house with flowery gardens. Needham Market, Ipswich, Suffolk IP6 8LJ.

Hotel Cardynham House

Californian artist Carol Keyes has endowed a fine 15th-century Cotswold town house with panache. The bedrooms are beautiful (some have efficient showers, not baths) and are superb value. One has a swimming pool in it! Breakfasts include American specialities. Dinner can be taken in her adjoining Thai restaurant. The Cross, Painswick, Stroud, Gloucestershire GL6 6XX. Map

Hotel Greenway

This smart, traditional hotel is impeccably run and set in extensive gardens and parkland, with the Cotswold Hills in the background. The conservatory dining room, in which elaborate dishes are served, opens onto a sunken garden and lily pond, where drinks can be taken in summer. Shurdington, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL51 4UG.

Hotel Lamb Inn

A characterful inn in a charming village – perfection. There are stripped floors and old settles, log fires and a cosy sitting room. Bedrooms are in keeping; two have four-posters. For dinner, choose between pub food in the bar, or more sophisticated dishes in the dining room. Upper High St, Shipton-under-Wychwood, Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire OX7 6DQ.

Hotel Crown

Good advice: eat at the Crown but stay at the Swan (see page 101), both owned by Adnam’s Brewery. If you can’t, fear not: the rooms here, though simple, are pleasing, with well-fitted bathrooms (not all en suite). Downstairs, the brasserie-style bar and popular restaurant add to the informal atmosphere. 90 High St, Southwold, Suffolk, IP18 6DP.

Hotel Hundred House

Georgian house with offbeat decoration – patchwork quilts, gold-painted ceilings and swings in some bedrooms. Norton, nr Shifnal, Shropshire TF11 9EE.

Hotel By Appointment

A flamboyant, colourful restaurant-with-rooms, filled with Victoriana and other objets trouvés. Wonderful breakfasts. 25-29 St George’s St, Norwich, Norfolk NR3 1AB.

Hotel Cotswold House

High standards and attention to detail distinguish this Cotswold stone family home B&B in residential north Oxford. 363 Banbury Rd, Oxford OX2 7PL.

Hotel Swan

The finest of breezy Southwold’s medieval inns has a thoroughly comfortable interior, with checks and chintzes and open fires creating the country house look. The main building is complemented by newer garden rooms. The atmosphere is slightly formal, but staff are friendly and helpful. Market Place, Southwold, Suffolk IP18 6EG.

Hotel Strattons

The Scotts are natural hosts, and have created a very individual hotel from an elegant listed villa, recently adding two smart suites. Their taste is far from minimalist: there are possessions everywhere: cushions, objects, books, pictures. Vanessa’s award-winning cooking is cheerfully served by Les in the cosy basement restaurant. 4 Ash Close, Swaffham, Norfolk PE37 7NH

Hotel Stapleford Park

The stately home experience is taken to extremes here: the finest wines, the most expensive cigars, and bedrooms designed by upmarket companies such as Crabtree & Evelyn and David Hicks. On the sporting front, you can fish, ride, clay pigeon shoot, play golf or practise falconry and archery. Stapleford, Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire LE14 2EF.

Hotel Cliveden

This stately home was the former residence of the Astor family (and became associated in the public mind with the 1960s Profumo scandal). It still exudes a subtle combination of privileged grandeur and faintly louche luxury. The accommodation includes a cottage hideaway perfect for honeymooners. Taplow, Berkshire SL6 0JF.

Hotel Crown Inn

An excellent base for visits to Snape Maltings concert hall, this is a cosy, characterful pub with good food; pretty, beamed bedrooms (one with four-poster), simple bathrooms. Snape, Suffolk IP17 1SL

Hotel Angel

In the heart of the village, a welcoming inn with well-regarded food and bars buzzing with activity. Bedrooms are homely. Polstead Street, Stoke-by-Nayland, Colchester, Essex CO6 4SA

Hotel Drakestone House

For a taste of bygone elegance, try the splendid Edwardian family home of Hugh and Crystal St John-Mildmay. Stinchcombe, Dursley, Gloucestershire GL11 6AS.

Hotel Wyck Hill House

Manor house with superb views over Windrush Valley. Formal restaurant. Burford Rd, Stow-on-the-Wold, Gloucestershire GL54 1HY

Hotel Calcot Manor

Various outbuildings surround this old Cotswold manor. The renovated stables house the superb family rooms, with video, fridge, bunks and baby-listening. Children are especially welcome (there is a playroom supervised by a nanny). Adults enjoy the excellent cooking in the cool Conservatory or the Gumstool Inn. Tetbury, Gloucestershire GL8 8YJ

Hotel Lake Isle

It’s a surprise to find something so rustic and countrified in the middle of a busy High Street, even a pretty one like Uppingham’s. The restaurant-with-rooms is entered through a flowery courtyard. Bedrooms are cosy, and the bar has a log fire on chilly evenings. Fully refurbished by new management. 16 High St East, Uppingham, Rutland LE15 9PZ.

Hotel Owlpen Manor

Only superlatives are used to describe Owlpen Manor, hidden in its own little valley. Once seen, the magical Tudor house is never forgotten. This is luxurious ‘serviced’ self-catering: stay in a delightful cottage, barn or mill. Eat (Saturdays only) in the atmospheric restaurant, the Cyder House. Owlpen, nr Uley, Gloucestershire GL11 5BZ.

Hotel Feathers

This exceptionally civilized hotel is fashioned from four tall 17th-century townhouses. The place is hard to fault: relaxing upstairs drawing room (with library and open fire); beautifully decorated bedrooms; friendly, unobtrusive service; and excellent food in the lively wood-panelled dining room. Market St, Woodstock, Oxfordshire OX20 1SX.

Hotel Caterham House

This centrally located B&B, set in two Georgian houses, is very attractive both inside and out. Stylish and well run. 58 Rother St, Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwickshire CV37 6LT.

Marriott Hanbury Manor Hotel & Country Club

This five-star hotel incorporates modern amenities (health spa, golf) in a grandiose setting. Ware, Hertfordshire SG12 0SD

Hotel Old Vicarage

Immaculately kept small hotel, with mostly large bedrooms and a sunny conservatory. Worfield, Bridgnorth, Shropshire WV15 5JZ

Hotel Ramsholt Arms

Right by the water, this pub makes a perfect base for sailing, birdwatching or riverside treks. Dock Road, Ramsholt, Woodbridge, Suffolk IP12 3AB.

THE DEEP lanes, hidden valleys and sheltered creeks and coves of Cornwall and Devon make magical settings for a range of charming places to stay, from sophisticated seaside hotels to simple farmhouse B&Bs. In Dorset, Somerset and Avon there are a wealth of gracious mansions and manor houses which have been turned into hotels, perfect choices for a weekend treat. In the southeast, Sussex and Kent are favoured with a crop of delightful traditional buildings, some of them medieval, in which to stay. London had spent many years in the doldrums, but the city and its environs now have an impressive range of beautifully run, highly individual hotels. Note, however, that they are expensive and there are as yet few which stand out in the budget category.

Holne Chase

Quiet, restful former hunting lodge inside Dartmoor National Park. Perfect for sporting enthusiasts: fishing and shooting on tap. Ashburton, Devon TQ13 7NS

Blagdon Manor

Small country house hotel, lost in lovely countryside, run on personal yet professional lines. Pretty bedrooms; good food. Ashwater, Devon EX21 5DF.

Amberley Hotels 

Amberley Castle

The real thing, complete with battlements and portcullis in a charming village. Baronial luxury, plus Jacuzzis. Amberley, Arundel, West Sussex BN18 9ND.

Battle Hotels

Little Hemingfold

This rural haven is hidden away amid farm and woodland yet close to many historic places, including the site of the Battle of Hastings. The rambling house is surrounded by gardens and overlooks a trout lake (fishing, rowing). Inside is cosy (log fires) and full of interesting corners, with plain but individual bedrooms; traditional, satisfying cooking. Battle, East Sussex TN33 OTT.

Bathford Hotels

Eagle House

In a fine village near Bath, this gracious Georgian mansion is run as a guesthouse by its professional yet informal owners, the Napiers. The house is decorated without pomp, using an eclectic mix of furniture, and has an elegant drawing room overlooking landscaped gardens and beyond. Children stay free. Church St, Bathford, Somerset BA1 7RS.

 Bigbury-on-Sea Hotels

Burgh Island

Board a wheezing sea tractor to the small island that houses this genuine Art Deco hotel. It has been lovingly restored and is still acting out the Roaring Twenties, when it played host to a string of famous people including Agatha Christie. There is a feast of Art Deco furniture and fittings in every room. Great views. Bigbury-on-Sea, Devon TQ7 4BG.

Dorset Hotels

Bridge House

Originally a 13th-century clergy house, deep in Hardy country with pretty bedrooms and more than adequate food. Beaminster, Dorset DT8 3AY

Beercrocombe Hotels

Frog Street Farm

Hidden, flower-bedecked Somerset longhouse run by friendly farmers and racehorse breeders Veronica and Henry Cole. Log fires, fine Jacobean panelling. Beercrocombe, Taunton, Somerset TA3 6AF

Brighton Hotels

Hotel du Vin

The newest hotel in this stylish micro-chain. Sleekly modern yet warm and intimate. Ship Street, Brighton, West Sussex BN1 1AD.

Priory Steps

A row of 17th-century weavers’ cottages has been sympathetically restored by Carey and Diana Chapman to become both their home and a welcoming small hotel. The bedrooms, carefully decorated with antiques, are surprisingly spacious and light, with sweeping views. Dinner is served at the communal table. Newtown, Bradford-on-Avon, Wiltshire BA15 1NQ.

Gidleigh Park

This luxurious Dartmoor hotel has been run by the Hendersons for the past 25 years, and is still as polished and relaxing as ever. In the oak-panelled sitting room and the bedrooms a feeling of good living and serenity abounds. The superb food (two Michelin stars) is a highlight, as is the wine. Golf, fishing, tennis, croquet. Chagford, Devon TQ13 8HH.

Chagford Hotels

Mason’s Arms

Branscombe is a picturesque Devon seaside village surrounded by steep, wooded hills. It’s a hive of activity for walkers in winter and beachcombers in summer, and the Mason’s Arms makes a perfect base for both camps. The bedrooms are cottagey, with (mainly) ensuite bathrooms. Branscombe, Devon EX12 3DJ.

Chettle Hotels

Hotel Castleman

Chettle is special: the estate village is still owned by one family, the Bourkes, who live in its fine Queen Anne manor house. The former dower house is now a hotel and restaurant, run by Teddy Bourke and Barbara Garnsworthy along informal lines: no frills, but period features and spacious rooms attractively decorated. Chettle, Blandford Forum, Dorset DT11 8DB.

Bovey Tracey Hotels

Bel Alp House

On Dartmoor’s edge, a sedate Edwardian house with glorious seaward views from the terrace across a patchwork of fields. Haytor, Bovey Tracey, Devon TQ13 9XX.

Bradford-on-Avon Hotels

Bradford Old Windmill

Simple, romantic bedrooms, ethnic curiosities and exotic cooking. Masons Lane, Bradford-on-Avon, Wiltshire BA15 1QN.

Hotel Bailiffscourt

An astonishingly realistic 1930s’ re-creation of a medieval manor houses a slightly corporate luxury hotel, handy for Gatwick. Climping, West Sussex BN17 5RW

Lucknam Park

Stately hotel with aristocratic interior, formal dining and a leisure complex. Colerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ.

Ockenden Manor

Superb views of the South Downs can be had from the grounds of this fine 16th-century manor. The hotel is elegantly furnished; creative English food is served in the atmospheric wood-panelled dining room with painted ceiling and stained-glass windows. Rooms are individual and spacious, service is friendly. Ockenden Lane, Cuckfield, West Sussex RH17 5LD.

Summer Lodge

The many devotees of this former dower house in the heart of Dorset love its assets: French windows leading onto flowery gardens; airy bedrooms; good food served in a formal but pretty dining room. Peace, comfort, and a touch of extravagance without intimidation. For exercise there is tennis and croquet. Summer Lane, Evershot, Dorset DT2 0JR

Gravetye Manor

For more than 40 years this serene Elizabethan house has exuded understated luxury – at a price. It is close to London, yet surrounded by natural English gardens and woodland. Standards are unfailingly high, with award-winning cooking and attentive yet unobtrusive service. Vowels Lane, East Grinstead, West Sussex RH19 4LJ.

Fowey Hall

The grandest of a group of hotels designed specifically for families. The facilities for children are endless, yet there is plenty of sophistication for grown-ups too. The setting, overlooking the Fowey estuary and the sea, is an extravagant late 19th-century mansion; modern comforts and leisure activities. Hanson Drive, Fowey, Cornwall PL23 1ET.

Nobody Inn

Quintessential West Country inn with satisfying food and wines; the large rooms are a stroll away in an old house, Town Barton. Doddiscombsleigh, Exeter, Devon EX6 7PS.

Ashwick House

Edwardian house on Exmoor. Galleried hall, traditional dining room, thoughtfully equipped bedrooms. Dulverton, Somerset TA22 9QD.

Casterbridge

Georgian town-centre hotel with bright rooms (some small); generous breakfasts served in pretty conservatory. Good value. 49 High East St, Dorchester, Dorset DT1 1HU.

Griffin Inn

Popular pub and local restaurant with above-average food. Mostly four-posters. Rooms in the Coach House are sought after. Fletching, Uckfield, East Sussex TN22 3NE

Old Parsonage

In a charming village, a gracious Georgian country house run as a B&B by Tony and Mary Dakin. Tall, spacious reception rooms are impressively decorated without being overpowering: antiques, Persian rugs, chandeliers, photographs and lithographs on the walls. There is an airy conservatory, and the fresh bedrooms have large bathrooms. Excellent breakfasts. Church Lane, Frant, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN3 9DX

Langshott Manor Gatwick is only a couple of miles away, and urban sprawl is close at hand, but this brick-and-timber Elizabethan manor remains at peace in its own landscaped grounds. The expense-account luxury includes swish, wellequipped bedrooms and an intimate dining room; the price includes a week’s free airport parking. Langshott, Horley, Surrey RH6 9LN.

Babington House

This contemporary country house hotel offers child-friendly metropolitan chic and unpretentious luxury: cinema, computers, health centre, crêche, tennis, snooker, relaxed but efficient 24-hour service and wonderful bedrooms. In the bathrooms are huge bottles of complimentary lotions – no mean sachets here. Babington, Frome, Somerset BA11 3RW.

Old Rectory Down a winding road in the Somerset countryside, the Old Rectory – a 16thcentury building sensitively preserved and enhanced with modern comforts – is the perfect place to unwind. Dinner, on request, is served at a communal table, from a menu of all-local produce. Cricket Malherbie, Ilminster, Somerset TA19 0PW.

Tregildry

In a magical setting overlooking a romantic Cornish creek, a vividly decorated hotel with breezy Far Eastern feel. Gillan, Manaccan, Helston, Cornwall TR12 6HG.

Horn of Plenty

Secluded, creeper-covered house in a splendid location overlooking the Tamar Valley. Notable restaurant. Gulworthy, Tavistock, Devon PL19 8JD.

Stock Hill House

Victorian manor, set in wooded grounds and decorated in the grandly personal style of its owners. Formal dining. NGillingham, Dorset SP8 5NR.

Homewood Park

Georgian building in awardwinning gardens. Hinton Charterhouse, Bath, Somerset BA2 7TB.

At The Sign of the Angel

The epitome of the medieval English inn – half-timbered, with great log fires in cold weather, beamed ceilings, oak panelling, venerable old beds and gleaming antique furniture. The village is owned and cared for by the National Trust. The pleasures are simple, the setting memorable. 6 Church St, Lacock, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN15 2LB

The Athenaeum Hotel and Apartments

The Athenaeum has a caring reputation, but lone women are made to feel particularly welcome. Most rooms are comfortable rather than luxurious, with standard bathrooms, but each has a CD and video player and a proper bar. There is also a range of serviced apartments, some sumptuous. 116 Piccadilly, London W1J 7BJ.

Landewednack House

This lovely old rectory in a thatched hamlet has a superb headland position. The views across the garden and the church to the sea are heavenly, and the three bedrooms are supremely elegant and luxurious. Guests dine en famille; local seafood dishes, perhaps lobster or crab, are a highlight. Church Cove, The Lizard, Helston, Cornwall TR12 7PQ

Beaufort

Consistently praised and with a high percentage of faithful regulars, this is an exceptional townhouse hotel. It is noted for the friendly attitude of its mainly female staff, the smart, tasteful decor, and the wealth of extras included in the rates (airport limo, cream teas, champagne). In a quiet street near Harrods. 33 Beaufort Gardens, London SW3 1PP.

Arundell Arms

Traditional, characterful sporting inn with 20 miles of fishing on the Tamar river and its four tributaries. Log fires, modish food. Lifton, Devon PL16 0AA.

Chewton Glen

Once inside this superbly run hotel you are enveloped in an exceptional degree of luxury (with a price tag to match). Rooms and suites are correspondingly faultless, and both service and cuisine are of the highest quality. Many guests come for the golf and the superb, sybaritic health club. Christchurch Road, New Milton, Hampshire BH25 6QS.

Shurnhold House

This beautifully proportioned stone-built Jacobean house sits close to a main road on the outskirts of the unremarkable town of Melksham, but is well screened by trees. Inside you will find flagstones, beams, floral fabrics, a room full of books, and spacious bedrooms. Licensed bar. Well placed for touring in several directions. Shurnhold, Melksham, Wiltshire SN12 8DG.

Stanwell House

Decorated with great flair. Attractive bistro and courtyard. 14-15 High St, Lymington, Hampshire SO41 9AA.

Angel

Coaching inn with Georgian façade and plush, warmly decorated Tudor interior. Many rooms have beams. North Street, Midhurst, West Sussex GU29 9DN.

Lea Hill

This superior B&B hotel consists of a dreamy thatched Devon longhouse in an isolated position amidst rolling countryside. Membury, Axminster, Devon EX13 7AQ.

Romney Bay House

This remarkable house was designed by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, creator of Portmeirion . It stands on the edge of Romney Marsh, with wonderful sea views (telescope in the first-floor lookout). The rooms are fresh and individually decorated. Tennis, croquet, golf. Under new management. Coast Road, Littlestone, New Romney, Kent, TN28 8QY

Abbey

This characterful, rather imposing hotel overlooking Penzance harbour and St Michael’s Mount continues to exert its many charms. Set in a building dating back to 1660, the Abbey contains antiques and curios in abundance, yet retains the intimate feel of a private home. Lovely walled garden. Under new management. Abbey St, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 4AR.

The Seafood Restaurant/St Petroc’s Hotel/ Rick Stein’s Café

Choose from one of three places, all friendly and stylish, and all owned by chef Rick Stein. The best rooms (Nos 5 and 6 have estuary views) are above his famous fish restaurant; St Petroc’s is a proper hotel; rooms above the café are the least expensive. Padstow, Cornwall PL28 8BY

Ringlestone Inn

An ‘ale house’ since 1615, Ringlestone Inn is today affably run by Mike Millington Buck and his daughter. They offer comfortable rooms in the converted farmhouse opposite. Hearty pies and English country wines are the specialities of the restaurant, which comprises several intimate dining areas. Ringlestone, Maidstone, Kent ME17 1NX.

Bark House

Interesting newcomer in lovely Exe Valley, simple yet intimate, with innovative food served in the candlelit dining room. Oakfordbridge, nr Bampton, Devon EX16 9HZ.

Old Vicarage

Central but peaceful Tudor-Georgian family-run B&B. Breakfast is a highlight: home-made scones and jams. 66 Church Square, Rye, East Sussex TN31 7HF.

Driftwood Hotel

Stylish yet comfortable haven in whitewashed, refurbished family house. Good restaurant with spectacular views of Cornish coast. Rosevine, nr Portscatho, Cornwall TR2 5EW.

Ennys Beautiful

17thC manor house with grounds that lead to the River Hayle, where you can walk and picnic. Exemplary B&B. Trewhella Lane, St Hilary, Penzance, Cornwall TR20 9BZ.

St Enodoc

This child-friendly seaside holiday hotel, with slate roof and pebbledash walls, is typical of the area, and has splendid views across the Camel estuary. Its breezy interior suits the location perfectly: bright colours, painted furniture, modern art. Golf, surfing, sailing, fishing. Rock, Wadebridge, Cornwall PL27 6LA

Stone House

Peter and Jane Dunn’s ancestral home is a fine 16th-century manor with graceful interior. Of the seven sumptuous bedrooms, two have antique four-posters and huge bathrooms. Jane cooks elegant dinners, and produces picnics for Glyndebourne. Other attractions: log fires, shooting, billiards, woodland walks, croquet. Rushlake Green, Heathfield, East Sussex TN21 9QJ.

Crugsillick Manor

Elegant Queen Anne manor in a sheltered hollow on the lovely Roseland Peninsula. Owners the Barstows treat you as their house guests (communal candlelit dinners) but know when privacy is required. The drawing room has a ceiling moulded by Napoleonic prisoners. Picnic hampers available for lunch. Ruanhighlanes, nr St Mawes, Truro, Cornwall TR2 5LJ.

Jeake’s House

The 17th-century building makes a fitting B&B in picture-perfect Rye: beamed bedrooms, furnished with brass or mahogany bedsteads, lace bedspreads and antiques, look out over rooftops or over Romney Marsh. There is a comfortable book-lined sitting room and bar; breakfast is taken in a galleried former chapel. Mermaid Street, Rye, East Sussex TN31 7ET.

Walletts Court

Handsome old manor. Smart period or more modern bedrooms; pool, spa. Westcliffe, St Margaret’s at Cliffe, Dover, Kent CT15 6EW.

Seaview

Popular seaside hotel and local watering hole, run with care and bonhomie. High St, Seaview, Isle of Wight PO34 5EX.

St Martin’s

Welcoming holiday hotel in a superb, remote location. Modern, built of local stone, with comfortable bedrooms. St Martin’s, Isles of Scilly TR25 0QW.

Innsacre

Peaceful farmhouse set amongst hills and orchards. French country-style bedrooms; secluded terrace; imaginative set dinners. Shipton Gorge, Bridport, Dorset DT6 4LJ

Well House

Victorian hilltop house built by a teaplanter in 1894, obviously with no expense spared. The mood is calm and stylish, although a few more personal touches – such as books and current magazines – would be welcome. What stands out is the food and the impressive wine list. Convenient for the Eden Project. St Keyne, Liskeard, Cornwall PL14 4RN.

Sandgate

This hotel/restaurant stands on land that is as close to France as it is possible to be without actually being there. Ten minutes’ drive from the Channel Tunnel, overlooking the sea, the Sandgate has traditionally been staffed by a charming, mainly French team. Try to get a room with sea view, and book dinner. Under new management. The Esplanade, Sandgate, Folkestone, Kent CT20 3DY.

Tresanton

Owned by Olga Polizzi, daughter of hotelier Lord Forte, this much-vaunted hotel marries cool city sophistication with Cornish character. The cluster of cottages, built on different levels, overlooks the unspoilt town and the sea. Yacht, watersports available. Excellent food and service, but very expensive. 27 Lower Castle Rd, St Mawes, Cornwall TR2 5DR

La Sablonnerie

A long, low, 16th-century farmhouse at the southern tip of traffic-free Sark, this is the Channel Islands’ sweetest hotel, and the one serving the best food. Guests return year after year for utter peace and lovely scenery. There are no phones or TVs in the rooms; instead, each has a vase of flowers and bowl of fruit, and crisp linen on the comfy beds. Little Sark, Sark, Channel Islands GY9 OSD

Plumber Manor

A relaxed restaurant with cosy rooms, in a handsome Jacobean manor. The fish is superb, and the desserts tempting. Sturminster Newton, Dorset DT10 2AF.

Island

Smoothly run hotel on this charming privately owned island. Public rooms have huge picture windows onto the sea. Tresco, Isles of Scilly TR24 0PU.

Castle

Castellated, wisteria-clad site of Judge Jeffreys’ Bloody Assize. Pricey, acclaimed British cooking. Best rooms overlook garden. Castle Green, Taunton, Somerset TA1 1NF

Cridford Inn

Admire a Saxon mosaic in the oldest house in Devon, a cosy thatched inn run by a friendly young pair. Trusham, Teign Valley, Newton Abbot, Devon TQ13 0NR.

Priory Bay

Stylish decor and contemporary cuisine are successfully married with a relaxed ambience to suit both families and romantic couples. The eclectic house embraces many periods, including a Georgian muralled dining room and a French Gothic porch. A highlight is the private beach, with beach bar in summer. Priory Drive, Seaview, Isle of Wight PO34 5BU.

Orestone Manor

Rudyard Kipling lived just up the road from this grand, colonial-style manor house on the English Riviera, high above Lyme Bay. Outside, large conservatory and palm trees on the lawn; inside, Indian fabrics and Oriental prints. New proprietors Rose and Mark Ashton welcome you like old friends. Excellent food. Rockhouse Lane, Maidencombe, Torquay, Devon TQ1 4SX.

Bowlish House

Recently taken over by Darren Carter and Jason Goy, and currently undergoing major restoration work, Bowlish House feels relaxed and homelike, despite the fine Georgian mansion’s august air. The dining room makes a popular local restaurant. The unobtrusive bedrooms have large bathrooms. Wells Road, Shepton Mallet, Somerset BA4 5JD.

Hotel du Vin

A faded but grand hotel became the second Hotel du Vin (see page 92). This one has more space and period features than the first but similarly stylish bedooms and bathrooms. It also has the same friendly, efficient service and buzzing bistro, down to the hop garlands, the sunny food and the world-class sommelier. Crescent Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN1 2LY.

Percy’s

Elegant country hotel occupying a Devon longhouse. Every comfort is provided, in rural surroundings. Coombeshead Estate, Virginstow, Okehampton, Devon EX21 5EA

Priory

Former priory on River Frome. Some bedrooms are in the old boathouse. NChurch Green, Wareham, Dorset BH20 4ND.

Wartling Place

Georgian house in 2 acres of gardens, run as a sophisticated guest-house. Wartling, Herstmonceux, East Sussex BN27 1RY.

Bishopstrow House

Swish Georgian mansion with state-of-the-art health spa and much more. Six fantastic suites, but other rooms are small. Warminster, Wilts BA12 9HH.

Hooke Hall

In the centre of Uckfield, this elegant Queen Anne townhouse makes a smart, yet informal hotel. Public rooms and bedrooms (some named after famous lovers) are decorated with designer fabrics by owner Juliet Percy. Despite the homely atmosphere, there are such unexpected accoutrements as trouser presses. 250 High Street, Uckfield, East Sussex TN22 1EN.

Wykeham Arms

Plain outside, but convivial within. Guests tuck into top-notch pub food, washed down by real ales and an impressive selection of wines. Cosy, low-ceilinged bedrooms upstairs; less characterful but smarter ones in the annexe across the road. 75 Kingsgate Street, Winchester, Hampshire SO23 9PE.

Hotel du Vin

The owners of this extremely popular modern-day hostelry wrought a miracle when they took over a dowdy town centre hotel. Stylish but unpretentious, its heart is the bustling Bistro (be sure to book), serving zesty food and excellent but affordable wines. The elegant bedrooms are sponsored by wine companies. Southgate Street, Winchester, Hampshire SO23 9EF.

George Hotel

The carefully restored former 17th-century governor’s residence sits in the centre of this breezy and historic little harbour town. It has much to recommend it, including a panelled sitting room and elegant bedrooms. The amiable brasserie, where lunch is served all week, is preferable to the sombre dining room. Yarmouth, Isle of Wight PO41 OPE

Hotel Continental

Breezy, youthful, Deco-style hotel, plus six simple, gaily decorated fisherman’s huts for a bit of seaside fun. 29 Beach Walk, Whitstable, Kent CT5 2BP.

Old House

A Georgian house in an ancient market square. Contemporary comfort with award-winning restaurant. The Square, Wickham, Hampshire PO17 5JG. Map p75 D5

Royal Oak

Village pub transformed into a suave, sophisticated and pricey restaurant and buzzing brasserie; attractive bedrooms upstairs. The Square, Yattendon, Tatcham, Berkshire RG18 0UG.

White House

Comfortable house with pretty courtyard garden run for 30 years by the affable Smiths. They have a passion for good food and wine: their list has won awards. 11 Long St, Williton, Somerset TA4 4QW

Consistently praised and with a high percentage of faithful regulars, this is an exceptional townhouse hotel. It is noted for the friendly attitude of its mainly female staff, the smart, tasteful decor, and the wealth of extras included in the rates (airport limo, cream teas, champagne). In a quiet street near Harrods. 33 Beaufort Gardens, London SW3 1PP.

Hotel Cadogan

This quietly old-fashioned hotel on the borders of Chelsea and Knightsbridge is where Oscar Wilde was arrested (room 118). You can stay here, surrounded by photographs of the playwright. (In Paris, at l’Hotel, you can stay in the room in which he died.) Lilly Langtry’s home was also here. Dignified, warm and comforting. 75 Sloane St, London SW1X 9SG.

Hotel Connaught

For service – the type of impeccable, deferential service perfected by Jeeves – look no further. Now almost a living time-warp, this bastion of Britishness continues to turn a haughtily blind eye to the modern world; there are few newfangled frills. Restaurant is managed by top chef Gordon Ramsay. Carlos Place, London W1K 2AL.

Hotel Colonnade

Set amongst the canals and bridges of Little Venice, the Colonnade occupies a pair of Victorian townhouses that once did duty as a maternity hospital (Alan Turing was born here). Sigmund Freud stayed here; you can too, in eclectic but comfortable surroundings. Eat contemporary Mediterranean in the Enigma bar and restaurant. 2 Warrington Crescent, Little Venice, London W9 1ER.

Hotel Covent Garden

If you are at home in a trendy location and starry company, you will delight in this exceptional hotel, smack in the bustling heart of London. The former hospital combines inspired design and the latest technology with panache. Stunning drawing room with honesty bar; smiling young staff. Screening room. 10 Monmouth St, London WC2H 9HB.

Hotel Halkin

Armani-dressed staff deliver seriously good service at this sleek, minimalist yet friendly hotel. Michelin-starred Thai restaurant. 5 Halkin St, London SW1X 7DJ.

Hotel Knightsbridge

Green Comfortable, friendly, no-frills hotel midway between Harrods and Harvey Nics. Excellent full English breakfast. 159 Knightsbridge

Hotel Five Sumner Place

Award-winning, recently renovated, fairly priced South Kensington B&B. 5 Sumner Place, London SW7 3EE.

Hotel Dorchester

Of London’s great hotels, this has the edge, sweeping into the lead after its 1990 refurbishment. The 1930s building, looming over Park Lane like an ocean liner, was designed as the perfect grand hotel, and it is. It encompasses corporate events, film star guests, traditional atmosphere, and sumptuous modern luxury. Park Lane, London W1A 2HJ.

Hotel Franklin

This is a top-notch townhouse hotel by any standards, protective and relaxing, but what sets the Franklin apart is the bedrooms. Some are enormous, or look onto beautifully kept communal gardens, full of white roses in summer. Inside are florals and stripes, flounces and swags and huge beds, some canopied. 28 Egerton Gardens, London SW3 2DB

Dukes Hotel

Discreetly set back in its own gas-lit courtyard, this civilized Edwardian hideaway contrives to be both intimate and animated. This is particularly true of the clubby bar, renowned for its dry Martinis. English country house decoration without excess; charming, helpful staff. Health club and spa. St James’s Place, London SW1A 1NY.

Hotel Gore

With loads of character, including an animated public bar and bistro but a contrastingly quiet sitting room, this makes a delightfully congenial place to stay. Walls are covered in paintings and prints; bedrooms are crammed with antiques and idiosyncracies – ornate beds, a throne loo here, a gallery there. 190 Queen’s Gate, London SW7 5EX.

Hotel London Bridge

Glossy, elegant business and leisure hotel in regenerated area near City. 8-18 London Bridge St, London SE1 9SG.

Hotel Pembridge Court

Two ginger cats, a friendly manager and a mass of framed fans are some of the distinguishing features of this cosy hotel. 34 Pembridge Gardens, London W2 4DX

Hotel Millers

Literally crammed with antiques and collectables, a theatrical, well-run hideaway owned by antiques expert Martin Miller. 111a Westbourne Grove, London W2 4UW.

Hotel Rookery

Created from 18th-century brick buildings and full of clubby period charm. 12 Peter’s Lane, Cowcross St, London EC1M 6DS.

Hotel Hazlitt’s

Visiting authors leave signed copies for literary folk who like their comforts authentic yet stylish. A good Soho base, the three unspoilt Georgian townhouses have retained their sloping floorboards (it can be an uphill walk to bed). They have been decorated with suitable antiques, busts and prints, and Victorian bathroom fittings. 6 Frith Street, London W1D 3JA

Milestone Hotel and Apartments

At once opulent and refreshingly low-key, the Milestone occupies a spectacular position opposite Kensington Palace. An exclusive townhouse hotel with individually themed rooms and suites, it has won several top awards. 1/2 Kensington Court, London W8 5DL

L’Hotel

Baby sister of, and adjacent to, the suave Capital Hotel, this is an upmarket B&B, well situated for shopping sprees at Harrods. Breakfast is taken in the basement restaurant, Le Metro; there is no sitting room or room service. Bedrooms are mostly quite small, but sophisticated and well-equipped. 28 Basil Street, London SW3 1AS.

Hotel Number Sixteen

The elegant South Kensington B&B encompasses four smart terraced houses, and exudes a familial atmosphere of home: richly traditional, harmonious decor, with the bonus of a conservatory and patio garden. Bedrooms are well-proportioned; four have their own terrace. 16 Sumner Place, London SW7 3EG.

Hotel Savoy

Still charismatic, and a byword for luxury and Art Deco elegance. The Savoy Grill has a strong draw for the country’s elite. The Strand, London WC2R 0EU.

Hotel Strand Palace

Opposite the Savoy, and very different; but fresh, pleasant rooms represent very good value. Perfect for theatre visits. Strand, London WC2R 0JJ.

Hotel Tophams Belgravia

Cosy family-owned hotel with plenty of personality. Small rooms. 24-32 Ebury St, London SW1W 0LU.

Hotel Sydney

Spread across a terrace of mid- 19th-century townhouses, a luxury B&B with an international feel. 24-hour room service. 9-11 Sydney St, London SW3 6PU.

Hotel One Aldwych

High-profile contemporary hotel whose dramatic lobby has a bar rather than reception desk centre-stage. The best of the soothing bedrooms is the circular suite overlooking Waterloo Bridge. All are filled with state-of-the-art equipment – and flowers – though the vacuum plumbing can be anything but restful. 1 Aldwych, London WC2B 4RH.

Hotel Portobello

The stylish Notting Hill base appeals to people who appreciate its laid-back approach, eclectic Victoriana furnishings, and airy, 24-hour restaurant/bar. Rooms vary from tiny ‘cabins’ to sybaritic suites (bath in bedroom, mirrors above bed). The best have antique beds and baths – others have showers only. 22 Stanley Gardens, London W11 2NG.

Winchester Hotel

Stands out among budget options for its neat rooms, excellent housekeeping and en suite facilities (shower only). 17 Belgrave Road, London SW1 1RB.

This is a perfect choice for a weekend treat, combining the seclusion of a country house hotel with the attractions of Bath a stroll away. The bedrooms are luxurious yet homely; the sophisticated drawing room is done out in deep reds and ochre yellow. Smooth service and excellent food (Michelin star). Weston Rd, Bath, Somerset BA1 2XT.

Hotel Queensberry

Discreet, quiet and beautifully decorated central Bath haven, with a lift to all levels. Along the characterful maze of corridors are spacious bedrooms with lovely cotton sheets on the (mainly) king-size beds and lavish bathrooms. Two attractive drawing rooms and a popular basement restaurant, the Olive Tree. Russel St, Bath, Somerset BA1 2QF.

Hotel Royal Crescent

Occupying the central section of Bath’s immaculate Georgian Royal Crescent, the hotel operates to the highest standards and is now one of the country’s grandest and most gracious townhouse hotels. It comes complete with secluded garden, pampering health spa, hot air balloon for flights over Bath and river launch. 16 Royal Crescent, Bath, Somerset BA1 2LS.

Hotel Sydney Gardens

This large Italianate house overlooking a small park on the edge of town makes a light, attractive and spacious B&B. Sydney Rd, Bath, Somerset BA2 6NT.