Hotel Auberge de Cassagne

Bungalow bedrooms in spruce grounds are done out in exuberant Provençal style. The auberge itself is a mellow old house and its location a leafy suburb. Chef Philippe Boucher is a protégé of the renowned Paul Bocuse, with his own reputation and Michelin star. 84130 Le Pontet-Avignon, Vaucluse.

Le Maquis

It started life some 50 years ago as a beach café; today it’s a fashionable hotel with elegant rooms, its own beach, two swimming pools (one indoors, one out) and a tennis court which is floodlit at night. The rooms are luxurious and face the sea, and some have their own terraces. 20166 Porticcio, Corse-du-Sud .

Hotel Mas du Langoustier

Set on this unspoilt island, with no cars, the hotel is surrounded by its own extensive pine woods. Their scent wafts up to the original mas and modern building opposite, which houses the best of the bedrooms. There are two restaurants serving first-class food. 83400 Porquerolles, Var.

Hotel Les Loges de l’Aubergade

In a region not noted for its gastronomy, august cook Michel Trama offers outstanding food, wine and cigars in the ancient home of the Counts of Toulouse. Set around a patio, with a swimming pool at its centre, the modern rooms are done up with style. 52 rue Royale, 47270 Puymirol, Lot-et-Garonne.

Hotel La Petite Auberge

A cosy farmhouse run by English in French style. Large grounds and swimming pool. 24500 Razac d’Eymet, Dordogne .

Hotel Les Vieilles Tours

A medieval gentilhommerie with a snug salon in the turret and large, pleasing bedrooms. Lunch on request. Lafage, 46500 Rocamadour, Lot.

Hotel Château de Rochegude

A lavish Relais et Châteaux in a 12th-century fortress: palatial rooms, gourmet cuisine and fine wines. 26790 Rochegude, Drôme.

Hotel Domaine de la Rhue

A skilful conversion of a 19th-century stable block has created a calm B&B with handsome evidence of its origins and flexible accommodation. Some of the country-style bedrooms have kitchenettes and their own garden entrances, making them ideal for families. La Rhue, 46500 Rocamadour, Lot.

Hotel La Pélissaria

A 13th-century house clinging to a hillside in a captivating medieval village. The eccentric layout means that, from streetlevel, stairs lead down to the light bedrooms, many with terrific views over the Lot river. The hotel no longer has a restaurant, but there are several in the village. St-Cirq-Lapopie, 46330 Cabrerets, Lot.

Hotel Auberge et Clos des Cimes

The raison d’être of this unique hotel in an aptly named Auvergne village is its restaurant. Masterminded by talented chef Règis Marcon, it has won plaudits far and wide. His passion for mushrooms is evident in the names of the daringly decorated bedrooms, all boasting spectacular views. 43290 Le Village St-Bonnet-le-Froid, Haute-Loire.

Hôtel Arcé

The Arcé family have been in charge here for five generations, and it is their hospitality that gives the hotel its special charm. In a pretty Basque village at the foot of the Pyrenees, it boasts a fabulous riverside location and a glorious dining terrace shaded by leafy chestnut trees. 64430 St-Etienne-de-Baïgorry, Pyrénées-Atlantiques

Hotel Auberge du Colombier

The charm of this low-built white mas lies in its heavenly large garden of tall trees and a pool. 06330 Roquefort-les-Pins, Alpes-Maritimes.

Hotel L’Abbaye

Walls and floors of delicate local stone throughout this enchanting hotel set in lush gardens, with a pool and tidy bedrooms. 24220 St-Cyprien, Dordogne.

Hotel Mas de Garrigon

Modern hotel, built in Provençal style, run on house party lines. Route de St-Saturnin d’Apt, Roussillon, 84220 Gordes, Vaucluse.

Hotel Le Logis des Remparts

Sit beneath a parasol or swim in the pool in the peaceful garden of this ancient stone-built house, now a cosy B&B. 18 rue Guadet, 33330 St-Emilion, Gironde.

Hôtel du Midi-Papillon

Fans of this old rural posting inn have grown so numerous that bookings must be made months in advance. The welcoming Papillons continue a tradition of innkeeping of 150 years’ standing. The food, all home-grown, home-reared or home-baked, is irresistible; prices are low. 12230 St-Jean-du-Bruel, Aveyron

Hotel La Grande Bastide

The restoration of this country house combines new design with original materials such as local wood and stone. The 14 pastel-painted bedrooms are jazzed up with flamboyant Provençal prints. An alluring B&B where guests feel at home. 1350 route de la Colle, 06570 St-Paul-de-Vence, Alpes- Maritimes.

Hostellerie de la Maronne

Beyond a garden of lawns and trees lies the empty rolling countryside of the Auvergne, making this smartly decorated, grey-stone Relais du Silence a true haven. Madame De Cock’s ambitious menu is accompanied by a tantalizing wine list. Le Theil, 15140 St-Martin-Valmeroux, Cantal.

Hotel Le Hameau

A path bordered by orange trees leads to this attractive white 1920s villa with red-tiled roofs. The scented garden of flowers and shrubs is the scene of unmissable breakfasts. Bedrooms are in rustic Provençal style; many have terraces or balconies. New owners have taken over from the Huvelins. 528 route de la Colle, 06570 St-Paul-de-Vence, Alpes- Maritimes.

Hotel Auberge du Poids Public

Michelin-starred restaurant in a village inn, with sublime food, rustic dining room and comfortable rooms. 31540 St-Félix-Lauragais, Haute-Garonne.

Hotel Le Parc Victoria

The 19th-century villa is a model of style and correct housekeeping. 5 rue Cepé, 64500 St-Jean-de-Luz, Pyrénées- Atlantiques.

Hotel Les Orangers

At the edge of the village, overlooking orange groves, is this chic, flowerfilled Provençal farmhouse; impeccably kept. Chemin des Fumerates, 06570 St-Paul-de-Vence, Alpes- Maritimes

Hotel La Colombe d’Or

Elegantly rustic, with garden, pool and a marvellous art collection. Place de Gaulle, 06570 St-Paul-de-Vence, Alpes- Maritimes

Hotel Château des Alpilles

Nothing jars in this refined 19th-century manor house of pale stone, where bay trees flank the front door. The antique-laden salons feature moulded ceilings and mosaic floors; the Provençal bedrooms are spacious. Food can be eaten by the pool in summer. Route Départmentale 31, 13210 St-Rémy-de-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône.

Hotel Mas de la Fouque

The exclusive Spanish-style ranch has an idyllic location beside a lagoon, where guests can glimpse flamingoes, egrets or the famous white horses of the Camargue. It’s smart and luxurious yet family-run and friendly. Route du Petit Rhône, 13460 Les Stes-Mariesde- la-Mer, Bouches-du-Rhône

Hostellerie St-Jacques

A cheerful ivy-clad village inn, whose exterior gives little hint of what lies beyond: beautiful gardens, sloping down to a pretty pool. The airy bedrooms and large summery bar/dining room have been decorated with care. The cooking doesn’t disappoint. In summer, breakfast can be taken in the garden. 24470 St-Saud-Lacoussière, Dordogne.

Hotel L’Abbaye de Ste-Croix

The highlight at this 12th-century former monastery is the Michelinstarred food, eaten in a charming, rustic dining room. The former cells house the bedrooms, but there’s nothing Spartan about them now. A huge open fireplace warms the vaulted sitting room. Route du Val-de-Cuech, 13300 Salon-de-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône.

Hotel Domaine de Valmouriane

A farmhouse and lovely garden, stylishly converted to plush hotel. Petite Route des Baux, 13210 St-Rémy-de-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône.

Hotel La Ponche

In the old town, an arty yet chic hotel in daring colours, where the seafood is superb. Overlooks a small fishing port and beach. 3 rue des Remparts, 83990 St-Tropez, Var.

Hôtel Carayon

People flock from far and wide to sample Pierre Carayon’s excellent cuisine. The riverside hotel offers great value for money. Place du Fort, 12380 St-Sernin-sur-Rance, Aveyron

Hostellerie du Levezou

A warm welcome and fine food await visitors to this 14th-century castle, set in a picturesque hill village. Rue du Château, 12410 Salles-Curan, Aveyron.

Hôtel Arraya

Set on the main square of an archetypal Basque village, the 16th-century house was once a hostel for pilgrims to Santiago. It has an austere and off-putting façade, but inside lies an inn of great character and charm. Every corner and room is filled with polished pieces of fine local furniture. Adventurous cooking is a bonus. 64310 Sare, Pyrénées-Atlantiques.

Hôtel des Deux Rocs

A model hotel: an 18th-century house with blue shutters and a civilized air in a ravishing medieval village. The decor varies between the traditional in the public rooms and the dashing in the bedrooms. Breakfast in the cobbled square is a real treat. Recently taken over by French/English couple Bruno and Judy Germanaz. Place Font d’Amont, 83440 Seillans, Var

Hôtel de la Reine Sancie

A spectacular position on medieval arches above the Gave d’Oloron river makes this hotel exquisitely romantic. Rooms are pleasing and light, and a relaxed air prevails. To cap it all, the terrace is floodlit at night. The hotel is under the new ownership of two Irish brothers. Rue du Pont de la Légende, 64390 Sauveterre-de- Béarn, Pyrénées-Atlantiques.

Château de Boussac

A chateau with all the accoutrements – moat, lake, park and magnificent rooms filled with Louis XV furniture – but none of the formality. Despite the grand setting, the charming Marquis and Marquise de Longueil welcome guests like old friends. The delectable dinners are eaten en famille. Target, 03140 Chantelle, Allier.

Hostellerie de Meysset

Pine woods surround this long white house in the heart of Périgord Noir. Not surprisingly, the food is regional. 62 Route Argentouleau, 24200 Sarlat, Dordogne.

La Bergerie

A pristine whitewashed house with trim grounds and a restful air; it’s no hardship that the set dinner is obligatory. Avenue du Lac, 40140 Soustons, Landes

Auberge de Cabasse

In rugged country, an appealing Swiss-run inn with its own vineyard. Route de Sablet, 84110 Séguret, Vaucluse.

Les Demeures du Ranquet

The farmhouse restaurant, set in oak woods, is first class. The ten bedrooms are lush. Route de St-Hippolyte, Tornac, 30140 Anduze, Gard

Le Vieux Logis

Wine and pigs once filled the dining room of this complex of farm buildings – a far cry from today’s epitome of country chic, even though it has been home to the Giraudel- Destords for 400 years. Four-poster beds grace the rooms, antiques fill the salon’s every nook, and superb classic-modern cuisine is on offer. 24510 Trémolat, Dordogne.

Hotel Pic

Despite the illustrious reputation of the restaurant, there isn’t a hint of snobbery here. And though the great former owner Jacques Pic is dead, his daughter continues to create original dishes in their classic setting, as well as managing the more modest L’Auberge du Pin. Bedrooms are stunning. 285 avenue Victor-Hugo, 26001 Valence, Drôme.

Château de Trigance

You have to scale 100 rocky steps to gain access to this fabulous 11thcentury castle, perched on a limestone peak. Owned by the Thomases for more than 30 years, it is a painstaking re-creation of the Middle Ages, with stone-vaulted dining room and canopied beds. Breakfast is taken on the battlements. 83840 Trigance, Var.

Château du Domaine St-Martin

A stone’s throw from the Matisse chapel, this former Templar stronghold is one of France’s most expensive hotels. Bills will be extremely large, but devotees claim its sumptuous luxury and faultless service are worth it. Avenue des Templiers, 06140 Vence, Alpes-Maritimes.

L’Auberge St-Pierre

The 16th-century building is a manor rather than an inn, with rooms that have a medieval flavour. Food is fresh from the farm. Tourtour, 83690 Salernes, Var.

Hostellerie Le Beffroi

Old stone, beams and gleaming tiles abound in two hilltop houses. Rue de l’Evêché Haute Ville, 84110 Vaison-la-Romaine, Vaucluse.

La Source Bleue

Cluster of old paper mills on the willow-fringed Lot makes a charming, restful, rustic retreat. Moulin de Leygues, Touzac, 46700 Puy-l’Evêque, Lot.

Le Manoir du Raveyron

This rustic village inn offers simple accommodation, a warm welcome and excellent food at a very reasonable price. rue Henri Barbuse, 07150 Vallon-Pont-d’Arc, Ardèche.

La Roseraie

A garden of palms, oleander and orange trees envelops this B&B, a belle époque villa of palest pink. Inside it has a lived-in feel, with walls covered in straw hats, dried flowers and old photos. One reader wrote to us of a disappointing experience here, but now under new management; further reports, please. Avenue Henri Giraud, 06140 Vence, Alpes-Maritimes.

Château de Ricard

An immaculate country house with manicured gardens, where even the ivy covering the façade looks perfect. Welcome extras include a library, billiard room and laundry. Interior decoration is the owners’ forte, borne out by the chic rooms. A delicious dinner is served four nights a week. Route de Beaumont, 47210 Villeréal, Lot-et-Garonne.

Hôtel Chantoiseau

In the craggy landscape of the Cévennes, this 17th-century former post house boasts the most exciting restaurant for miles; here, mouthwatering Michelin-starred specialities are created by chef Patrick Pagès. Bedrooms are comfortable and well-kept if a trifle small, with splendid views. 48220 Vialas, Lozère.

Château de Trancis

The miniature Italianate chateau looks as if it has been transported from the banks of the Loire river, but in fact dates only from the 20th century. The interior has been fabulously furnished with antiques and rugs strewn on the polished floors. A charming Dutch couple run the place along house-party lines. 15210 Ydes, Cantal.

Auberge la Fontaine

A classy restaurant with a bistro and five elegantly ‘rustic’ apartments. Place de la Fontaine, Vénasque, 84210 Carpentras, Vaucluse.

La Magnaneraie

Food is among the best of the region at this four star hotel with swimming pool. 37 rue Camp de Bataille, 30401 Villeneuve-les-Avignon, Gard.

Hôtel de l’Atelier

Built in the 16th century for a cardinal, a haven of calm with a delightful shady courtyard just outside the city centre. 5 rue de la Foire, 30400 Villeneuve-les-Avignon, Gard.

Auberge La Tomette

A cheerful village inn among chestnut groves. Rustic panelled dining room, spotless bedrooms. Pool, garden. 15220 Vitrac, Cantal

The present owner’s great-grandfather built the house in the 19th century on the ruins of an earlier mill. Visitors today find a reflective place, a rambling country house filled with old paintings, antiques and four-poster beds. Enveloping the building is a garden of rivers and tall trees. And all this at modest cost. Castelpers, 12170 Lédergues, Aveyron.

La Terrasse au Soleil

This luxurious ranch-like manor has an individual style and intimacy that is reflected in its warm colour schemes. The restaurant has a reputation for serious food, but serves brasserie-style lunches too. Bedrooms are in annexes, some with verandas. Route de Fontfrède, 66400 Céret, Pyrénées-Orientales.

Le Vieux Castillon

Spectacular views across rolling, vineyard-dotted plains meet you at almost every turn in this pocket of mellow medieval houses at the heart of a pretty hill village. They have been ingeniously transformed to create a gem of a hotel. Standard rooms can be cramped; it’s worth paying the extra to go upmarket. 30210 Castillon-du-Gard, Gard.

Le Moulin du Roc

This former walnut mill has a heavenly setting on the banks of the Dronne river, encircled by a fertile garden. The interior is a delightful clutter of carved furniture, sumptuous fabrics, huge pictures and mill paraphernalia. The kitchen prepares delicate regional food. 24530 Champagnac-de-Belair, Dordogne.

Le Mas Trilles

A delightful 17th-century former farmhouse with pool in a verdant landscape. Rooms are big and stylish but not elaborate. Le Pont de Reynès, 66400 Céret, Pyrénées-Orientales.

Lehen Tokia

1920s Basque villa. Art Deco decor. Swimming pool, garden and fine sea view. Chemin Achotarreta, 64500 Ciboure, St-Jean-de-Luz, Pyrénées-Atlantiques.

La Bonne Etape

Imaginative cuisine in a hushed setting with a pool. The rooms are stunning. Chemin du Lac, 04160 Château-Arnoux, Alpes-de- Haute-Provence.

Hôtel Casa Païral

An exotic enclosed garden lies at the heart of this alluring old Catalan-style B&B. Empasse des Palmiers, 66190 Collioure, Pyrénées- Orientales.

Manoir d’Hautegente

This 13th-century manor has been through several incarnations: first it was a forge, then a mill, before becoming a private house. The hotel’s charm is that it keeps the feel of home intact with fresh-coloured, antique-filled rooms. The menu features homeproduced foie gras. Coly, 24120 Terrasson, Dordogne.

Hôtel des Trois Lys

The elegance of this whiteshuttered honey-stone house extends from the outside in. An immense stone staircase leads to the bedrooms, some of which are huge and wood-panelled, with deep-pile carpet and pristine bathrooms. There is a pool at the back and a restaurant, Le Dauphin, next door. 38 rue Gambetta, 32100 Condom, Gers.

Le Chalet

The chalet-style logis, deep in the Bourdonnais countryside, is an unsophisticated, traditional place: rooms are colourful and jolly rather than stylish. But for simple pleasures, the place is idyllic. In the wooded grounds are a pool and a large pond where guests can fish, and the little raised dining terrace has fine rural views. 03000 Coulandon, Allier.

La Vieille Fontaine

Built within the walls of a ruined castle in the medieval village of Cornillon, this hotel is the baby of the Audiberts. He is patron and talented chef; she is in charge of decoration. Her style is Provençal and unfussy, with touches of panache like the outside staircase encased in glass. Steep steps lead through terraced gardens to a hilltop pool. 30630 Cornillon, Gard.

Grand-Hôtel Sainte-Foy

Partly timbered 17thcentury inn. Large bedrooms, with views either over the abbey church, or the garden. 12320 St-Cyprien-sur-Dourdou, Conques, Aveyron.

Auberge sans Frontière

The simple village inn in sleepy Dégagnac offers superb value for its hearty cuisine and trim bedrooms. The dining room also serves as a bar and sitting room. Le Bourg, 46340 Dégagnac, Lot.

Le Grand Ecuyer

Michelin-starred cuisine, courtesy of pastry cook Yves Thuriès, in an old hunting lodge in this perfect medieval village. 79 Grand Rue Raimond VII, 81170 Cordes-sur-Ciel, Tarn.

Hôtel de l’Esplanade

A breathtaking position on a cliff-edge above the Dordogne, superb food and pretty rooms. 24250 Domme, Dordogne.

Hostellerie de Crillon-le-Brave

A substantial former vicarage of ochre stone, set on a hilltop in Italianate gardens, houses a hotel that is luxurious and well run without losing its character. Inside, worn flagged floors, stone walls, rustic furniture, old books and comfy sofas. Place de l’Eglise, 84410 Crillon-le-Brave, Vaucluse.

Les Prés d’Eugénie

In a refined spa town, this B&B, part of a small empire owned by Michel Guérard, is run with warmth and flair by his wife Christine. Rooms in the 18th-century former nunnery are all beautifully furnished. Meals are taken across the garden in the renowned Les Prés d’Eugénie restaurant. 40320 Eugénie-les-Bains, Landes.

Cuq-en-Terrasses

This charming hotel, an abandoned presbytery until its conversion in 1990 by two London designers, is set in a fertile pocket of country known locally as Le Pays de Cocagne – the land of plenty – and its location offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Clean, fresh, colourful decor. Wonderful food. Cuq Le Château, 81470 Cuq-Toulza, Tarn.

La Daille

British ex-pats Derek and Barbara Brown have been in charge this red-roofed farmhouse in rolling grounds for nearly 30 years. There used to be a restaurant here; now it’s a congenial B&B, but their weekend afternoon teas have become a local institution. The bedrooms are in a separate, modern building; there is a minimum stay of three days. 24250 Florimont-Gaumiers, Dordogne.

Auberge Provençale

Owner/chef Didier Pézeril creates culinary works of art in his characterful inn. The bedrooms are sweet and simple. Place de la Mairie, 13810 Eygalières.

Hostellerie Mas dou Pastré

Exquisite Provençal furnishings in a mas looking out to the Alpilles. Light lunches on a terrace; pool in the garden. Route d’Organ, 13810 Eygalières, Bouches-du-Rhône.

Moulin de la Beune

An oasis of calm at the heart of the tourist trail, with bright bedrooms and a Périgordian restaurant in the garden. 24620 Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, Dordogne.

Le Centenaire

Glossy Relais et Château with a lovely pool, a gym and surprisingly low prices. 2 av du Cingle, 24620 Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, Dordogne.

THE DORDOGNE and the Lot, the fertile valleys in the southwest, are popular holiday spots. They offer a wealth of attractive small hotels and B&Bs in old mills, stables, manors and farmhouses. Further west is Bordeaux, with its incomparable vineyards, and the tree-bordered beaches of the Landes. The Massif Central, arguably the least spoilt part of France, has a range of hotels, from farmsteads and chalets to medieval stone-built inns and elegant restaurants with rooms. Many are very good value for money. To the southeast of the region, in Provence, whitewashed walls and tiled roofs, and shady courtyards with wrought-iron furniture, are typical.

Mas d’Entremont

A cool courtyard lies at the heart of the hotel, a cluster of low, modern buildings. Their red roofs were constructed from old materials, giving them a softer, more rustic look. Wood pillars and beams abound in both the public rooms and the bedrooms, which are furnished with country pieces. Montée d’Avignon, 13090 Aix-en-Provence.

Villa Gallici

From the terrace with its deepcushioned seats shaded by plane trees, to the glamorous bedrooms with fabric-draped beds, the villa is perfect – interior-decorated to the last tieback. Perhaps it’s a little too perfect to put you completely at ease, but the restaurant excels. Avenue de la Violette, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône.

Hôtel des Quatre Dauphins

Painted furniture graces the reception room and simple, tasteful bedrooms in this good-value maison bourgeoise. 54 rue Roux Alphéran, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône

Le Logis du Guetteur

From the outside the 11th-century fort has barely changed; inside, calm modern rooms enjoy incomparable views. Place du Château, 83460 Les Arcs, Var

AJACCIO  CORSICA – Hôtel Dolce Vita

The glossy hotel has an acclaimed restaurant specializing in fish, and a glorious covered dining terrace. Route des Sanguinaires, 20000 Ajaccio, Corse-du-Sud.

Le Cottage

Seaside hotel with pleasant garden and pool. Simple bedrooms, most with balconies. 21 rue Arthur Rimbaud, 66703 Argelès-sur-Mer, Pyrénées-Orientales

Les Frênes

Comfort and good taste prevail at Les Frênes with its immaculate shuttered cream façade, tree-fringed pool and pastel-coloured bedrooms. Some are in outbuildings, scattered through the park in which the main house stands four-square. Provençal dishes crowd the menu. 645 avenue des Vertes-Rives, 84140 Avignon- Montfavet, Vaucluse

L’Oustau de Baumanière

The hotel makes the most of its splendid position high in the craggy Alpilles. You can swim with a view in the glorious pool, almost carved out of rock, and eat with one too on the panoramic terrace; the food is first-class. A few of the bedrooms are baronial, all are well-equipped. 13520 Les Baux-de-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône.

Auberge de la Benvengudo

With its shuttered façade almost hidden by creepers, the auberge gives the impression of being much older than its 20-odd years. A large garden and swimming pool, prepossessing bedrooms, and a snug salon make this a most inviting choice. Vallon de l’Arcoule, 13520 Les Baux-de-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône.

Le Chatenet

The Laxtons’ dog may bound out to greet you at this friendly B&B. A fine, low stone manor tucked away from the hurly-burly down a country track off the main riverside road, its interior is graciously but comfortably furnished. In the garden, deckchairs are placed temptingly in shady spots. 24310 Brantôme, Dordogne.

Hôtel Marie d’Agoult

Once home to Franz Liszt’s mistress, now a civilized and secluded retreat. Château d’Arpaillargues, Arpaillargues, 30700 Uzès, Gard.

Hôtel Chilo

A village hotel with views of the countryside that has been in the same family for three generations. Outstanding food; pool. 64130 Barcus, Pyrénées-Atlantiques.

Auberge de Concasty

Cheerful house and lawns on a family farm. Build up an appetite in the pool: Martine Causse’s delicious local dishes are filling. 15600 Boissot, Cantal.

Moulin de l’Abbaye

Its riverside situation makes this delectable former mill a magical place. A superb outlook across the Dronne river to the old town is shared by the flowery terrace and some of the smart, variously styled bedrooms. Housekeeping is flawless, the Michelin-starred food imaginative and the staff courteous. 1 route de Bourdeilles, 24310 Brantôme, Dordogne.

Auberge Relais de la Signoria

Candlelit dinner on the palm-shaded terrace by the seductive pool is one of the joys of staying here, a simple but stylish 17th-century house with an exotic garden. If you can, opt for a room in the main house not the annexe. Route de la Fôret de Bonifato, 20260 Calvi, Haute-Corse.

Manoir de Bellerive

This calm, handsome manor overlooking the Dordogne was renovated by interior designers, who created some striking paint effects and stylish rooms. A magnificent colonnaded entrance has an elegant double staircase. Set in private parkland. Route de Siorac, 24480 Le Buisson-de-Cadouin, Dordogne.

Hostellerie Fénelon

The little hotel, a cluster of red roofs and window boxes in a captivating village, represents excellent value for money. It’s not fancy, but the welcoming hostess, Mme Raynal, offers a warm welcome, good honest cooking and a little swimming pool, at low cost. In good weather, meals can be taken on the dining terrace. Friendly, unobtrusive staff. 46110 Carennac, Lot.

Auberge de l’Aiguebrun

A beautiful, tranquil hotel, full of light and colour, in a green oasis by a waterfall in the river Aiguebrun. First-rate food. Domaine de la Tour, RD 943, 84480 Bonnieux, Vaucluse.

Domaine d’Auriac

Golf, tennis and swimming are a few attractions of this plush country house. Fine dining on a splendid terrace. Route de St-Hilaire, 11009 Carcassonne, Aude.

L’Hostellerie du Prieuré

A chef from Maxim in Paris provides a fine Provençal table at this old hôtel-Dieu which retains all its original details. 84480 Bonnieux, Vaucluse.

Le Clos des Arômes

A 50-year-old hotel jazzed up by the young, hospitable Bonnets. Bedrooms are small but pretty; not all have bathrooms. 10 rue Paul Mouton, 13260 Cassis, Bouches-du-Rhône.

THE CHATEAU-HOTEL comes into its own in the Loire Valley. Although it is possible to stay in castles all over Europe, there is a special charm about sleeping in a fairytale French Renaissance chateau with its turrets, steep roofs, dormer windows, formal garden and park. But there are chateau-hotels in other regions of Central France, such as the Limousin and Périgord.

Many are old, solid bourgeois residences, flat-fronted, shuttered mansions with mansard roofs. There are also converted mills, and country and village inns full of character. To the east, in the upland regions of the Jura and Alp mountains, chalet-style hotels with steeply sloping roofs, shutters and wooden balconies, are prevalent.

Villa Louise

On the edge of a village that is a Mecca for lovers of white wine, is this low 17thcentury house. Inside, original timberwork and fireplaces are offset with an avant-garde interior and Art Deco furnishings. The tasteful bedrooms have swish bathrooms; breakfast is a feast of cheese, eggs and fruit. 9 rue Franche, 21420 Aloxe-Corton, Côte-d’Or.

Parc des Maréchaux

The best bedrooms are those looking on to the park from which the hotel takes its name, though all are spacious, in restful colours and furnished traditionally with wooden beds and antique chests. A large, dignified townhouse, it makes an exceedingly upmarket yet value-for-money B&B. 6 avenue Foch, 89000 Auxerre, Yonne.

Château de Pray

The 13th-century fortress is well placed to visit some of the great chateaux. Splendid vantage point above the Loire. 37400 Amboise, Indre-et-Loire.

L’Abbaye

Idiosyncratic abbey hotel in a suburb, with a stunning vaulted restaurant. 15 chemin de l’Abbaye, 74940 Annecy-le-Vieux, Haute- Savoie.

Le Relais du Lyon d’Or

In a contender for the prettiest village in France, a former royal tythe depot with terracotta floors and wooden beams. 4 rue d’Enfer, 86260 Angles sur l’Anglin, Vienne.

Château de Bagnols

Restored medieval fortress with sumptuous, frescoed rooms. Devotées claim it’s worth every centime. Outdoor pool. 69620 Bagnols, Rhône.

Château de Vault de Lugny

From the moment you arrive at the iron gates of this elegant home, you feel like a guest at an exclusive house party. Peacocks wander on the lawn along the drive, and at the front door a butler relieves you of your bags. The decoration is tasteful and not too grand; guests dine at one single long table. 11 rue du Château, 89200 Avallon, Yonne.

Château de Noirieux

On the western reaches of the Loire château trail, this 17th-century manor house with 1920s additions eclipses all the local competition. Service is courteous with just the right amount of pampering. Rooms have stunning antiques, and the garden is shady and well-kept. 26 route du Moulin, 49125 Briollay, Maine et Loire.

Auberge du Moulin de Chaméron

A mixture of water-mill museum and restaurant in deep country. In summer, meals can be taken on the terrace by the mill stream. A swimming pool and wooded gardens amply make up for the comfortable but dull rooms in modern buildings across the garden. Bannegon, 18210 Charenton-du-Cher, Cher.

Hostellerie du Château de Bellecroix

A former command post of the Knights of Malta, this turreted, creeper-clad castle was built in the 12th century with 18th-century additions. Annexe rooms are larger than those in the chateau, though the ones in the turrets are fun. Route Nationale 6, 71150 Chagny, Saône-et-Loire.

L’Abbaye

The former Augustine convent, set by an old bridge across the Loire, now makes a fine hotel. Period rooms and fine cuisine. 2 quai de l’Abbaye, 45190 Beaugency, Loiret.

L’Hermitage

Owner-chef Claude Sureau runs a superior Logis de France, a small manor in a mature garden with a pavilion for summer dining. 36500 Buzançais, Indre.

Château de Challanges

The setting for this late 18th-century mansion is a park of lawns and paths, minutes from the historic city. Rue des Templiers, Challanges, 21200 Beaune, Côte-d’Or.

Hôtel Lameloise

One of the great restaurants (three Michelin stars) in a calm, shuttered house. 36 place d’Armes, 71150 Chagny, Saône-et-Loire.

Le Hameau Albert 1er

This refined reincarnation of the old Railway Hotel is now run by its founder’s grandson. The most luxurious rooms are in Les Fermes, converted farm buildings with their own restaurant. Pierre Carrier’s sublime cooking richly deserves its two Michelin stars. BP 55-119 impasse du Montenvers, 74402 Chamonix, Haute Savoie.

Château des Briottières

English parkland surrounds the de Valbray’s gracious family seat. The present young owners have opened their doors to guests, who find public rooms, furnished with family antiques and portraits, plus harmonious bedrooms. The de Valbrays join their guests for a pre-prandial drink. Mainly regional cuisine. 49330 Champigné, Maine-et-Loire.

Hôtel du Jeu de Paume

Parisian style arrives in the Alps with the opening of the sister hotel of the Ile St-Louis Jeu de Paume. It follows the lines of a classic chalet, with wood dominating inside and out. In winter the hotel lays on a car to take guests to the ski lifts. Dinner on their return is superb. 705 route du Chapeau, Le Lavancher, 74400 Chamonix, Haute-Savoie.

Moulin d’Hauterive

Rustic chic, bright, romantic bedrooms and the inventive cooking of owner Mme Moille make a stay at this large converted mill an unusual blend of rural seclusion and good living. In the large lawn behind are a little pool and tennis courts – and there’s even a heliport. Chaublanc, 71350 St-Gervais-en-Vallière, Saone et Loire.

Château de la Vérie

The beaches are just a short drive away from this lavishly furnished chateau. Route de St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, 85300 Challans, Vendée.

Hôtel de l’Ecluse

A row of cottages on a canal – contains seven colourful, modestly priced bedrooms, a country-style dining room and bar. 2 Chemin de Ronde, 89160 Chassignelles, Yonne.

Auberge du Bois Prin

Classic-style chalet, impeccably run. Great views and food. 69 chemin de l’Hermine, Les Moussoux, 74400 Chamonix, Haute-Savoie.

Hostellerie du Château

A 15th-century former presbytery in a medieval village. Quiet rooms. Châteauneuf, 21320 Pouilly-en-Auxois, Côte-d’Or.

La Croix Blanche de Sologne

The simple logis has a 200-year-old tradition of employing female chefs, and they have acquired a lofty reputation for their mainly Périgordian cuisine. The building dates back to 1424 and its rustic style is fitting: rooms are full of country antiques. 5 place de l’Eglise, 41600 Chaumont-sur-Tharonne, Loir-et-Cher

Hôtel Restaurant de Bourgogne

This 19thcentury town hotel has a very French provincial air about it, and delightfully old-fashioned bedrooms are arranged around a calm courtyard garden. The restaurant specializes in Burgundian dishes. Recent change of ownership; now in the hands of the Colin family. Place de l’Abbaye, 71250 Cluny, Saône-et-Loire.

Hôtel Diderot

This white-shuttered town house in a pleasant courtyard is run as a down-to-earth B&B. Some of the spotless, no-frills bedrooms have beams and fine views; some lead on to a terrace. Breakfasts are scrumptious, due to the hotel’s wonderful supply of home-made jams. Now under new management. 4 rue Buffon, 37500 Chinon, Indre-et-Loire.

Auberge des Chasseurs

This attractive converted farmhouse, situated at the foot of the Jura mountains, has been in the family of its owner, Dominique Lamy, since the mid-19th century. A Swedish decorator has freshened the interiors with a touch of Scandinavian paint magic. Satisfying food; pool; terrace; fine views over Lake Geneva to Mont Blanc. Naz Dessus, 01170 Echenevex, Ain.

Château du Breuil

Polished antiques in pale rooms and a sumptuous salon characterize this 18th-century chateau; vast parkland. Route de Fougères-sur-Bièvre, 41700 Cheverny, Loir-et-Cher.

Hostellerie Le Marais St-Jean

The Giradons’ farmhouse combines character with creature comforts; simple food and hordes of fans. Chonas-l’Amballan, 38121 Reventin-Vaugris, Isère.

Domaine de Clairefontaine

Simple rooms and a Michelin star for Philippe Giradon’s cuisine. Chonas-l’Amballan, 38121 Reventin-Vaugris, Isère.

Hôtellerie Beau Rivage

On the bank, or rivage, of the Rhône river; many rooms share the view. Friendly staff and Michelin-starred food. 2 rue du Beau Rivage, 69420 Condrieu, Rhône.

La Verniaz et ses Chalets

Nestled between Lake Geneva and the mountains in a mature tree- and flower-filled garden, an appealing hotel has been created from a clutch of old Alpine buildings. The dining room is dominated by a huge wood fire, over which meat and fish are cooked. Navenue D’Abondance, Neuvecelle-Eglise, 74500 Evian, Haute-Savoie.

Chalets Hôtel de la Croix-Fry

Enthusiasts return year after year, as a spell in this archetypal mountain chalet, built of dark wood, its terrace a sea of flowers, is a truly relaxing experience. The interior is simple and rustic, and it’s no hardship that a minimum of three nights is required. Route du Col de la Croix-Fry, 74230 Manigod, Thônes, Haute Savoie.

Château de Gilly

For Burgundy buffs, this stunning 14th-century Cistercian monastery in the heart of the Grands Crus will have irresistible appeal. Beautifully tended formal gardens set off the architecture, and the pale stone-vaulted dining room makes a magnificent setting for the gastronomic regional meals. Gilly-les-Cîteaux, 21640 Vougeot, Côte d’Or.

Hôtellerie du Val d’Or

This early 19th-century coaching inn in the wine village of Mercurey makes a pleasant contrast with the many formal and extremely expensive establishments of the region. Devotees come here to savour Jean- Claude Cogny’s Michelin-starred cooking; many return to stay in the neatly decorated bedrooms. 140 Grande Rue, 71640 Mercurey, Saône-et-Loire.

Hôtel Le Manassès

Strictly for lovers of Burgundy: the hotel is in a vineyard and there’s a wine museum in a barn. Bedrooms are modern, public rooms are furnished with antiques. 21220 Curtil-Vergy, Côte d’Or.

Hôtel Taillard

This hotel in the Jura, close to the Swiss border, is efficiently run. Comfy rooms, pretty garden, breakfast terrace. 25470 Goumois, Doubs.

Hôtel du Rivage

The hotel is contemporary and stylish, but the real draw is Christian Gaillard’s cuisine. Rooms at the front have the view. 1 Quai de Nice, 45500 Gien, Loiret.

Château d’Igé

The medieval castle comes close to perfection, with ivy-clad turrets and a flower garden. A huge hearth warms diners. 71960 Igé, Saône-et-Loire.

Les Magnolias

This old winegrower’s house in peaceful surroundings has been converted into a B&B with great flair and is owned by a genial half- English man. Antiques pepper communal rooms and bedrooms; the ones in the eaves, with dormer windows, are most appealing. On fine days the substantial breakfasts can be eaten in a courtyard. 8 rue Pierre Joigneaux, 21190 Meursault, Côte-d’Or.

Hostellerie Château Ste-Catherine

At the end of a long drive through verdant gardens, stands a severe-looking stone manor house built around 1800 for the Empress Joséphine. First impressions are not reinforced by the warmth and charm of the interior, where walls are hung with tapestries and fires blaze in the hearths. Route de Marthon, 16220 Montbron, Charente.

Domaine de la Tortinière

Its hillside position in vast grounds lends this fairytale castle panoramas over the Indre valley. Built in 1861 in Renaissance style, it is smartly furnished, and offers an impressive array of activities including boating, tennis and mountain biking. Route de Ballan-Miré – Les Gués de Veigné, 37250 Montbazon-en-Touraine, Indre-et-Loire.

Château-Hôtel de Nieuil François I’s former hunting lodge is a Renaissance castle with turrets, formal garden and magnificent rooms. But its charm lies in the warmth of the owners. The exuberant Monsieur Bodinaud manages a collection of fine cognacs. Madame used to be the chef, but has recently handed over that role. Route de Fontafie, 16270 Nieuil, Charente.

La Côte St-Jacques

On the banks of the Yonne river avant-garde decor is coupled with tip-top cuisine – three Michelin stars. 14 fbg de Paris, 89304 Joigny, Yonne.

Villa Florentine

A luxurious mix of Renaissance style with contemporary Italian design. 25 montée St-Barthélémy, 69005 Lyon, Rhône.

La Tour Rose

In old Lyon, a restaurant with amazing rooms, each one reflecting a different period in the history of silk. 22 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon, Rhône.

Chalet du Mont d’Arbois

Old pine furniture, log fires and fresh bedrooms in a traditional chalet. 447 chemin de la Rocaille, 74120 Megève, Haute-Savoie.

Château de Noizay

Formal French gardens stretch away from this substantial 16th-century chateau. Inside, sturdy wooden stairs lead from the black and white tiled hall to the bedrooms, many of them furnished with four poster beds. The food and local Vouvray wines are excellent. Route de Chançay, 37210 Noizay, Indre-et-Loire.

Moulin de la Gorce

Two main reasons for a visit to this flour mill are the peace it enjoys and the food it produces. Built in the 1500s in an enviable position by a lake, it is now run by pastry chefs. Decoration varies: some country, some period, but the chintzy bedrooms look a touch out of place. Exceptional cuisine. 87800 La Roche-l’Abeille, Haute-Vienne.

La Huchette

The Gualdieri family have restored and enlarged this old inn and smartened it up considerably in the process. The bold decoration includes a colourful mural of country scenes in the beamed dining room, which specializes in regional dishes. The best and quietest bedrooms are those facing the large garden. 01750 Replonges, Ain.

Château de la Vallée Bleue

The Gasquets have owned and run this mini chateau since 1985, and more committed hoteliers would be hard to find. Flowers brighten the rooms; on chilly days a log fire blazes in the hall; service is caring; and an easy air pervades the hotel. Route de Verneuil, St-Chartier, 36400 La Châtre, Indre.

Le Fer à Cheval

Hansel and Gretel wood chalet with gleaming furniture and fresh fabrics. 36 route du Crêt-d’Arbois, 74120 Megève, Haute- Savoie.

Hôtel les Charmes

Secluded grounds with tall trees surround this civilized 18th-century maison bourgeoise. The pool is a plus. 10 place du Murger, 21190 Meursault, Côte-d’Or.

Château de la Menaudière

A small, beautifully furnished chateau with a snug bar, pretty courtyard and lawns, and a warm heart. 41401 Montrichard, Loir-et-Cher.

Château de la Beuvrière

Dedicated châteauhoppers can enjoy a night in the genuine medieval article without having to dip too far into their pockets. On a huge estate in the Cher valley, it has been carefully renovated, its lovely rooms full of family furniture. The pool is rather too close to the house – but that’s just a quibble. St-Hilaire-de-Court, 18100 Vierzon, Cher.

La Chapelle-St-Martin

The trim and tidy manor house stands proud within its equally trim and tidy grounds with small lake and mature trees. Inside is decorated to the hilt, mixing antiques, modern conveniences and rich fabrics; bedrooms are equally impressive. Yet the ambience is relaxed. Fine swimming pool, tennis courts. St-Martin-du-Fault, 87510 Nieul, Haute-Vienne.

Le Logis Saint-Martin

Once you’re ensconced in this pretty hotel, surrounded by woods, it seems impossible that the A10 motorway is so close. Built in the 17th century of pale stone, it has a tower converted into a smart split-level suite. Bertrand Heintz is a welcoming host, and the classic cuisine uses only organic produce. Chemin de Pissot, 79400 St-Maixent-L’Ecole, Deux-Sèvres.

Château de Rochecotte

A vast park and formal garden enclose the grand family-run stately home; inside gorgeous furnishings enhance the classical rooms. Yet it retains the feel of a private home – the family could not be more welcoming nor the staff more attentive. Madame Pasquier serves consistently elegant cuisine. St-Patrice, 37130 Langeais, Indre-et-Loire.

Domaine des Hauts de Loire

Characterful 19thcentury hunting lodge. Michelin-starred cuisine. Route de Herbault, 41150 Onzain, Loir-et-Cher.

La Reconce

Handsome village hotel next door to La Poste restaurant, both admirably run by Denise and Jean-Noel Dauvergne. Le Bourg, 71600 Poisson, Saône-et-Loire.

Ostellerie du Vieux Pérouges

In the centre of the medieval town. Excellent traditional cooking; bedrooms are in four separate houses. Place du Tilleul, 01800 Pérouges, Meximieux, Ain.

Grand Hôtel du Lion d’Or

Gastronomic food in a flamboyant villa in this undiscovered town. 69 rue Georges Clémenceau, 41200 Romorantin- Lanthenay, Loir-et-Cher.

La Tonnellerie

The internal garden of this 19th-century wine-merchant’s house is glorious in summer, when tables are set out beneath the chestnuts. The modern regional cuisine is always a draw. The hotel is kept in pristine order by the delightful Marie-Christine Pouey; among the pretty floral bedrooms are four apartment suites. 12 rue des Eaux, Tavers, 45190 Beaugency, Loiret.

La Demeure de Chavoire

For total peace and tranquillity, look no further than this hotel on the shores of Lake Annecy. It forges a winning combination of classic elegance and modern luxury, with artistic decoration and romantic bedrooms named after local writers and beauty spots. 71 route d’Annecy-Chavoire, 74290 Veyrier-du-Lac, Haute-Savoie.

Château Belmont

A refined 19th-cenury villa in Touraine stone. Sitting in a wicker chair inside the colonnade, sipping a cocktail and savouring the landscaped garden is just one of its treats. Luxurious bedrooms and delectable food at the Jean Bardet restaurant are others. The hotel is only 2km (about 1 mile) from the city centre. 57 rue Groison, 37100 Tours, Indre-et-Loire.

Le Pontot

The only hotel within the town walls of old Vézelay, this special B&B occupies an ancient, sprawling house, fortified and rebuilt over the centuries. Bedrooms range from ones with stone floors, rafters and rustic furniture to a suite in Louis XVI style. In autumn, breakfast is served in front of a splendid log fire; in summer, in the pretty walled garden. Place du Pontot, 89450 Vézelay, Yonne.

Reynaud

Fine restaurant with rooms, the accent is on fish and home-grown vegetables. Glorious terrace beside the Rhône river. 82 avenue du President Roosevelt, 26600 Tainl’Hermitage, Drôme.

Au Gay Séjour

A simple white and wood chalet with spectacular alpine views and hearty food. Le Tertenoz de Seythenex, 74210 Faverges, Haute-Savoie.

Auberge du Père Bise

Swanky inn on the lake, run by mère et fille Bise, exalted for their cuisine. Route du Port, 74290 Talloires, Haute-Savoie.

Résidence de Rohan

Snug among the pines typical of this coast, a relaxed seaside B&B occupies a handsome white house. Outdoor pool. Parc des Fées, 17640 Vaux-sur-Mer, Charente-Maritime.

Corneille Faultless housekeeping and gastronomic menus at this seaside villa. 4 rue G Clémenceau, 35800 Dinard, Ille-et-Vilaine.

DAMPIERRE – Auberge du Château

Purpose-built in 1650 in rural surroundings just 30 minutes’ drive from Paris. Low rafters and undulating floors. 1 Grande Rue, 78720 Dampierre, Yvelines.

CRÉPON – Ferme de la Rançonnière

Tapestries and fine furniture are scattered about this fortified old farmhouse. Huge breakfasts of eggs and cream. Route d’Arromanches, 14480 Crépon, Calvados.

Hôtel Cléry

The team at this small 18th-century chateau are dedicated, enthusiastic and welcoming. A tree-lined drive leads up to the elegant white façade but, despite the splendid Louis XV wrought-iron staircase, there is no formality in the pale, simply furnished interior. Some of the bedrooms are in annexes. rue du Chateau, 62360 Hesdin-l’Abbé, Pas-de-Calais.

Château de Locguénolé

A vast lawn extends from the château down to the Blavet estuary, popular for sailing, and the park hugs 2km (1 mile) of coast. Inside, wood-panelled rooms are filled with tapestries and antiques. Sweat off a fine seafood dinner in the Turkish bath. Route de Port-Louis en Kervignac, 56700 Hennebont, Morbihan.

HESDIN-L’ABBÉ – Château de la Râpée

The decoration inside this 19th-century Gothic mansion is slightly eccentric (lots of antlers, carpets as wallcoverings), and public rooms can be a bit dark. But the location is tranquil, with fine country views, bedrooms are light and spacious and there are grounds to wander round. Serious classic regional cooking.

Hostellerie du Moulin

A half-timbered flour mill with cob walls and tremendous character, where the original workings are still operational and provide a focal point in the rustic sitting room. It enjoys a perfect setting too, beside the millstream set in fields. Pretty bedrooms with low rafters are tucked away in nooks and crannies. 2 rue du Moulin, 77940 Flagy, Seine-et-Marne.

LOUVIERS – Hôtel La Haye-le-Comte

Keep fit with tennis, pétanque, croquet, golf and mountain bikes. 4 route de La Haye-le-Comte, 27400 Louviers, Eure.

LAPOUTROIE – Les Alisiers

Great views from this modest farmhouse. Small but snug bedrooms. The kitchen specializes in Alsatian dishes. 5 Faudé, 68650 Lapoutroie, Haut-Rhin.

KAYSERSBERG – Hôtel Résidence Chambard

Ancient buildings with upmarket restaurant and pleasant rooms. 13 rue de Général de Gaulle, 68240 Kaysersberg, Haut-Rhin.

ETRÉAUPONT – Le Clos du Montvinage

Cheerful and spacious hotel located in the town, with pleasant, well-equipped bedrooms. 8 rue Albert Ledant, 02580 Etréaupont, Aisne.

Hôtel des Berges

One of the most highly regarded restaurants in the country, L’Auberge de l’Ill, has a number of select and beautifully furnished rooms, with a lush garden on the banks of the River Ill. It is run with verve by several generations of the Haeberlin family. 4 rue de Collonges, 68970 Illhaeusern, Haut-Rhin.

Manoir de Kertalg

Forest walks, tennis, fly fishing, riding and sandy beaches are all within easy reach of this miniature chateau. It has all the qualifications: stone-built, with steep slate roofs and dormer windows, and set in a vast park. Decoration is refined, and, though it’s officially a B&B, you can book a seafood supper. Route de Riec-sur-Belon, 29350 Moëlan-sur-Mer, Finistère.

Le Manoir du Butin

This classic 18th-century half-timbered Norman manor is outside town, in shady grounds within spitting distance of the sea. The rustic, heavily beamed interior is warm and comfy, especially on chilly evenings when the fires are lit. Great regional cuisine and a large selection of Calvados vieux. Phare du Butin, 14600 Honfleur, Calvados.

La Chaumière

Just outside the colourful little port, this timbered farmhouse is typical of the region. Set amid orchards, it is now a Relais et Château hotel boasting sea views, a friendly staff, well-decorated bedrooms, and good honest Norman cooking. In the same ownership is the nearby La Ferme Saint-Siméon. Route du Littoral, Vasouy, 14600 Honfleur, Calvados.

Les Moulins du Duc

This converted mill is set in manicured gardens amongst the wooded hills of Finistère, just above the lowest tidal reaches of the Belon. The mill itself is a restaurant offering very serious food – particularly seafood, owing to the location near the coast. Accommodation is in comfortable cottages dotted around the grounds. 29350 Moëlan-sur-Mer, Finistère.

Château de Montreuil

The kind of luxury you would expect of a Relais et Châteaux is presented here with real flair, from captivating bedrooms – each one different – and elegant public rooms to the private English gardens. The cooking uses garden vegetables and herbs. 4 Chaussée des Capucins, 62170 Montreuil-sur-Mer, Pas-de-Calais.

Auberge de la Grenouillère

Nicknamed ‘the Froggery’ by its fans (the walls are lined with froggy caricatures), a Michelin-starred riverside restaurant with rooms. The food, served on the outdoor terrace in good weather, is excellent and good value. Enchanting farmhouse rooms. La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, 62170 Montreuil-sur- Mer, Pas-de-Calais.

Le Repaire de Kerroc’h

This quayside house built in 1793 has a romantic past, having once belonged to a pirate. Bedrooms differ in style. Old ones have a faded elegance, new ones are decorated in bright vivid colours. All are comfortable. 29 Quai Morand, Port de Plaisance, 22500 Paimpol, Côtes-d’Armor.

Château d’Adoménil

Moated château with turrets and hall, where a convivial air prevails. Rehainvillier, 54300 Lunéville, Meurthe-et- Moselle.

Auberge St-Pierre

On the mount’s main street, you’ll find home cooking and pleasing rooms. BP 16, Grande Rue, 50170 Le Mont-St-Michel, Manche.

Le Cerf

Picture-postcard-pretty inn, known for gastronomic Alsatian food. Modest rooms. 30 rue du Général-de-Gaulle, 67520 Marlenheim, Bas-Rhin.

Château de Brécourt

Splendid Louis XIII château, complete with moat and wooded park, boasting frescoed ceilings and fine furniture. Douains, 27120 Pacy-sur-Eure, Eure.

Le Manoir du Sphinx

The cliffside garden of this lofty hotel leads down to the rocky shore. 67 chemin de la Messe, 22700 Perros-Guirec, Côtes d’Armor.

Les Ajoncs d’Or

Cottagey, granite-built logis that seems frozen in time. Good Breton country fare. Kerbachique, 56340 Plouharnel, Morbihan.

Château de la Motte Beaumanoir

It’s only a B&B, but this 15th-century château with lake and landscaped garden is a great place for a break. 35720 Pleugueneuc, Ille-et-Vilaine.

Belle-Isle-sur-Risle

With a large island garden, it’s hard to imagine a more romantic setting for this late 19th-century mansion. 112 route de Rouen, 27500 Pont-Audemer, Eure.

La Chenevière

In summer the lawns are dotted with sun loungers, and tables and chairs, shaded by parasols, are set out on the terrace. But this refined Norman mansion will not only appeal to hedonists; the airy rooms are aesthetically pleasing too. Everywhere you look are paintings, architectural prints, ancient seals or objets d’art. Escures-Commes, 14520 Port-en-Bessin, Calvados.

Château des Crayères

A champagne buff’s paradise: the park of this graceful Louis XVI mansion is bordered by the cellars of all the great vineyards. Decoration of the grand interior is skilfull and sympathetic, retaining a sweeping staircase, marble columns and wood panelling. 64 bd Henry-Vasnier, 51100 Reims, Marne.

Château de Quineville

The thought of an oldstyle French provincial hotel in a drab seaside resort at the northern end of Utah Beach may not set your pulse racing, but the Château de Quineville – a fine 18th-century building set in 12 hectares of land – is quaint and charming. Golf, riding, tennis and sailing are all nearby. 50310 Quineville-Plage, Manche.

Auberge Bretonne

Home-grown fruit and vegetables feature large in Jacques Thorel’s cooking, which has earned two Michelin stars for this Breton-style Relais et Chateaux inn. The cellar is equally impressive. Tasteful bedrooms. You must book months ahead. 2 place Duguesclin, 56130 La Roche-Bernard, Morbihan.

Hôtel Sud Bretagne

A family-run four-star with an eye-catching blue and white façade. Facilities include indoor pool, billiards and its own ketch. 42 bd de la République, 44380 Pornichet, Loire- Atlantique.

Domaine de Bodeuc

Welcoming touches await guests at this handsome house in large grounds, with recently enlarged restaurant. 56130 La Roche-Bernard, Morbihan.

Le Clos Saint-Vincent

An essential stopover on the Riesling wine route. Excellent cuisine. Route de Bergheim, 68150 Ribeauvillé, Haut-Rhin.

Hotel Brittany

From this well-furnished stone manor the next stop is Newfoundland. Huge bay windows take advantage of the light and views. Bd Sainte-Barbe, 29680 Roscoff, Finistère.

Auberge du Prieuré

Be warned, dinner here is costly in comparison with the good-value rooms. These are split between a new but sympathetic annexe and the house, a 13th-century priory of honey stone, no less lovely inside than out, furnished with solid antiques and mellow fabrics. Beyond the leafy garden with a heated pool, lie orchards and fields. St-André-d’Hébertot, 14130 Pont-l’Évêque, Calvados.

Hôtel de la Plage

With the sea and sandy beach on its doorstep, this hotel is ideal for families if a touch pricey. It combines chic with Breton simplicity; some bedrooms are all white with the odd antique. The dining room offers superb seafood and views from floor-to-ceiling windows. Ste-Anne-la-Palud, 29550 Plonévez-Porzay, Finistère.

La Korrigane

Staying in this fine-looking town house near the harbour is like being a guest in an elegant home. The pale drawing room is furnished with books, photographs and ornaments, and in the bedrooms are easy chairs, antique mirrors and oil paintings. Too refined for children just back from the beach. 39 rue Le Pomellec, 35400 St-Malo, Ille-et- Vilaine.

Le Domaine du Château de Barive

A short drive from Reims, Laon and Liesse, this impressive 17th-century hunting lodge is the perfect place to stay for cathedral touring, as well as sampling first-class cuisine. Public rooms are gracious and formal, though you can dine in a more casual garden room. Vast estate to explore. N02350 Ste-Preuve, Aisne.

Hôtel de la Cathédrale

Off a quiet lane, a warren of rooms in faded yet elegant style. Some overlook a courtyard overflowing with flowers. 12 rue St-Romain, 76000 Rouen, Seine-Maritime.

Hôtel de France et des Fuchsias

The raison d’être of this congenial hotel is its restaurant. 20 rue Maréchal Foch, 50550 St-Vaast-la-Hougue, Manche.

Le Valmarin

Handsome grey-stone B&B in treefilled grounds close to the harbour. Recent change of ownership. 7 rue Jean XXIII, 35400 St-Malo, Ille-et-Vilaine.

Le Cheval Blanc

Without spoiling this old auberge, the owners make more improvements inside and out every year. Outstanding food. 51400 Sept-Saulx, Marne.

Manoir de Lan-Kerellec

A Relais et Château manor yet nonetheless unpretentious and intimate, standing on a grassy hillside above the rocky pink granite coast. Not surprisingly seafood is de rigueur in the nautical dining room. There are several beautiful bays a short walk away. Allée Centrale, 22560 Trébeurden, Côtes d’Armor.

Hostellerie le Clos

A jokey exterior of chequerboard and trellis-patterned brickwork, reminiscent of a Disneyland castle, masks a gorgeous little hotel. In the dining room, trompe l’oeil garden scenes divide windows looking out to the real thing. Half-board only at weekends. 98 rue de la Ferté-Vidame, 27130 Verneuil-sur-Avre, Eure.

Hotel Ti Al-Lannec

Child-friendly and good value, with steps down to the beach from its eyrie position, this is a hotel with a heart, run with loving care. Guests find books and fresh flowers placed in bedrooms, many of which have verandas. The sitting room is stunning, as are the garden and the views over the bay of Lannion. Allée de Mézo-Guen, BP 3, 22560 Trébeurden, Côtes d’Armor.

Moulin de Villeray

Formerly a derelict mill, now an idyllic rural retreat, with quiet bedrooms and a pleasant salon where pre-prandial drinks are served. The hub is the restaurant with its beams and massive fireplace. Half-board in high season. Further accommodation recently added at castle nearby. Villeray, 6110 Condeau, Orne.

Kastell Dinec’h

An old stone farmhouse with a leafy garden shaded by conifers, a heated pool and small but appealing bedrooms. NRoute de Lannion, 22220 Tréguier, Côtes-d’Armor.

Le Champ des Oiseaux

Fresh-looking bedrooms and bathrooms nestle beneath old timbers in this glorious 15th-century B&B in the town centre. 20 rue Linard Gonthier, 10000 Troyes, Aube.

La Verte Campagne

Roses cover a farmhouse where bedrooms take second place to food; chef Pascal Bernou has won a Michelin star. Hameau Chevalier, 50660 Trelly, Manche.

La Tour du Roy

This atmospheric inn bristles with turrets outside and attractive features inside. Highly rated food. Lieu-dit La Tour du Roy, 02140 Vervins, Aisne.

NORTHERN FRANCE offers travellers an almost infinite array of choices in scenery and accommodation. The region stretches southwards from the plains of Picardy, through the apple orchards, lush countryside and converted mills of Normandy to rugged Brittany, with its austere granite chateaux and perfect seaside hotels for family holidays. Paris, at the heart of Northern France, is one of the most romantic cities in the world. It also boasts a large collection of very chic hotels. Pasde- Calais, the rolling countryside behind the Channel ports of Calais and Boulogne, is ideal for weekend breaks from Britain. Wine lovers with more time to spare can go further east to Champagne.

Château d’Agneaux

The rather austere exterior of this 13th-century château hides a comfortable hotel with attractive but not over-decorated rooms. Try for one in the turret. Though only just outside the town of Saint-Lô, this is a peaceful spot in hilly countryside. The restaurant serves fine food. Avenue Ste-Marie, 50180 St-Lô-Agneaux, Manche

La Chaîne d’Or

An unrivalled position in the shadow of the ghostly ruins of 12th-century Château Gaillard gives this homely 18th-century inn a romantic flavour. Excellent Norman cuisine is served in the charming timbered dining room. Books, paintings, a pretty courtyard and airy elegant bedrooms add to its charms. 25-27 rue Grande, 27700 Les Andelys, Eure.

Hostellerie des Trois Mousquetaires

Grandly furnished family-run hotel in a mock Tudor house. NChâteau du Fort de la Redoute, 62120 Aire-sur-la-Lys, Pas-de-Calais.

Château d’Audrieu

 Ancestral pile of the Livry- Level family, transformed into a Relais et Château with huge rooms and an impressive wine list. 14250 Audrieu, Calvados.

Auberge d’Artzenheim

Brimming with rustic charm, an inn with a cosy beamed restaurant. Summer dining on the flower-filled terrace. 30 rue du Sponeck, 68320 Artzenheim, Haut-Rhin.

Manoir du Lys

A geranium-bedecked hunting lodge with pool and Michelin-starred cuisine. La Croix Gauthier, Route de Juvigny, 61140 Bagnolesde- l’Orne, Orne.

Le Saint Pierre

An inviting stop in a picturepostcard village on the bank of the River Seine, an hour’s drive from Paris. Three of the six stylishly modern bedrooms overlook the river. Close by, a small car ferry saves the long drive to the nearest bridge. Recent change of management; the new chef and owner is M. Dejoy. 4 place du Bateau, 76530 La Bouille, Seine-Maritime

Le Dauphin

This lovingly restored former priory in the centre of Caen, a stone’s throw from William the Conqueror’s castle, has many fine features but one in particular that sets it apart: parking. Run by a lively husband-and-wife team, the atmosphere is welcoming, the rooms comfortable, and the (Norman) cuisine excellent. 29 rue Gémare, 14000 Caen, Calvados.

Château de Brélidy

Don’t be put off by the severe granite walls, which are typical of 16thcentury Breton architecture. Those who venture in will find a welcoming, family-run hotel, with relaxing bedrooms named after flowers. Added attractions are a billiard room, a Jacuzzi beneath an arbour in the garden, and an unspoilt setting. Brélidy, 22140 Bégard, Côtes-d’Armor.

Le Petit Coq aux Champs

 The large thatched house – mostly 19th-century with a modern extension – blends the rustic, chic and eccentric. It is tucked away among the rolling meadows and forests of the Risle valley. All the rooms are differently done out; some have balconies over the garden. Impressive cooking. La Pommeraie Sud, 27500 Campigny, Pont-Audemer, Eure.

Le Conquérant

Abundant ivy softens the grey granite façade of this manor house with a walled garden, fresh new bedrooms and a salon de thé. 16-18 rue St-Thomas Becket, 50760 Barfleur, Manche.

Auberge de l’Abbaye

Polished tiled floors and furniture, high-cholesterol cooking and heaps of atmosphere in a quintessential country inn. Le Bec-Hellouin, 27800 Brionne, Eure.

Hôtel d’Argouges

 Friendly, central yet quiet B&B in an 18th-century mansion with flower garden, dignified sitting room and a period feel. 21 rue St-Patrice, 14400 Bayeux, Calvados

Castel Clara

 Modern but tasteful retreat on this quiet island. Pricey but luxurious. Goulphar, Belle-Ile-en-Mer, 56360 Bangor, Morbihan

Hostellerie du Moulin du Vey

 This creeper-clad former water mill is in a stunning part of the Orne Valley at the heart of La Suisse Normande, within a short drive of Caen. In summer, local dishes are served on a riverbank terrace among the willows; in winter, in a barn of a restaurant. The simple bedrooms are all differently done out. Le Vey, 14570 Clécy, Calvados.

Château de Remaisnil

This lovely 18th-century house was once home to designer Laura Ashley, whose style still dominates the plush bedrooms. Now under new ownership, it reopens 1 July. Despite its vast grounds and rococo interior, it retains a homely feel. Nine cheaper rooms in the coach house will be ready in 2004. Remaisnil, 80600 Doullens, Picardie.

Château de Courcelles

 A 17th-century château where Racine and Napoleon laid their heads. The landscaped garden setting is magical, and the hotel strikes all the right chords: huge bedrooms enlivened by colourful fabrics, friendly staff, haute cuisine presented in an airy dining room, and a cellar of phenomenal champagnes. 02220 Courcelles-sur-Vesle, Aisne.

Domaine St Clair-Le Donjon

Perched on a hill above the cliffs of Etretat, is this ancient castle with historical associations. It has been elegantly converted with ten highly original bedrooms, and ten additional rooms in the newly refurbished 19th-century villa. Views from the romantic mirrored dining room are spectacular. Chemin de St Clair, 76790 Etretat, Seine-Maritime.

Le Clos Fleuri

Near the picturesque island port of Le Palais, simple but chic, with lawns, fresh bedrooms and a delicious daily brunch. Bellevue, Route de Sauzon, Belle-Ile-en-Mer, 56360 Le Palais, Morbihan.

Le Normandie

A good position on the Seine marks out this friendly and well maintained hotel. 19 Quai Guilbaud, 76490 Caudebec-en-Caux, Seine-Maritime.

Domaine de Rochevilaine

Cluster of buildings on rocky headland, filled with Breton antiques. Pointe de Pen Lan-Sud, 56190 Billiers, Morbihan.

Le Moulin de Connelles

Mill enjoying perfect Seine-side setting, mature park and plush interior. 40 route d’Amfreville-sur-les-Monts, 27430 Connelles, Eure.

This beautifully converted former abbey has quite a following for its faultless service, stylish rooms and calm ambience. Double rooms can be small; if you can afford it, go for a duplex. On fine days breakfast can be taken in a little paved courtyard bordered by flowering shrubs. 10 rue Cassette, 75006 Paris.

Hôtel d’Aubusson

The entrance to this fine hotel is through immense double doors, used for coaches in the 17th century when the honey-stone building was built. Inside are a lovely beamed salon and a breakfast room hung with tapestries. Restrained luxury defines the pale bedrooms. 33 rue Dauphine, 75006 Paris.

Hôtel d’Angleterre

Some people say the elegance is a bit faded, but this former British embassy near the boulevard Saint-Germain is still a winner for its feeling of spacious calm. Echoes of former glories include fine mantelpieces and trompe l’oeil murals. All the rooms are differently done out and most are very roomy. 44 rue Jacob, 75006 Paris.

Hôtel de Banville

The elegance doesn’t stop at the furnishings in this 1930s town house north of Etoile. The hotel is strong on the personal touch: fresh flowers in the individually decorated bedrooms, beds turned down at night and evercheerful staff. A pianist is a regular feature in the comfortable bar/sitting area in the evenings. 166 bd Berthier, 75017 Paris.

Hôtel Beau Manoir

The clue is in the name: this hotel styles itself on a rural manor, with damask drapes and tapestries on wood-panelled walls. 6 rue de l’Arcade, 75008 Paris.

Hôtel du Jeu de Paume

Avant-garde conversion of a 17th-century tennis court by the architect owner, creating an atrium inside the old timbers. 54 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004 Paris.

Hôtel Elysées-Mermoz

Attractive and freshlooking, it has a conservatory-style foyer and well-designed bedrooms with Pierre Frey fabrics. 30 rue Jean-Mermoz, 75008 Paris.

Hôtel Latour-Maubourg

The warmth of the owner/managers and the private-house feel make this a really special place to stay. 150 rue de Grenelle, 75007 Paris.

Hôtel de la Bretonnerie

The busy streets of the picturesque Marais and Pompidou Centre area surround this 17th-century townhouse, yet inside all is calm and comfort. Beams, tiled floors and hardwood furniture are offset by rich furnishings and wallcolourings. Bedrooms are surprisingly spacious; some have a mezzanine gallery. 22 rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, 75004 Paris.

Lancaster

Swiss hotelier Emile Wolf opened the Lancaster back in 1930, and it quickly attracted the glitterati of the day. The present owner has restored furniture and rooms to their former glory, incorporating into her elegant decorative scheme the hotel’s collection of Boris Pastoukhoff paintings (he used them to pay his bills). 7 rue de Berri, 75008 Paris.

Hôtel Duc de St-Simon

From the elegant courtyard, the first glimpse of this gorgeous, if pricey, little hotel through two sets of French doors is pure magic. The salon is deliciously furnished with upholstered and antique pieces, pictures and ornaments, and has the privatehouse feel that the Swedish proprietor intended. 14 rue de St-Simon, 75007 Paris.

Pavillon de la Reine

Its location on the most harmonious square in the city is ideal and one of this handsome 17th-century mansion’s main draws. Anne of Austria’s home now has the air of a baronial hall, complete with huge hearth and wood panelling. You couldn’t call it cosy, but it’s precisely run and supremely comfortable. 28 place des Vosges, 75003 Paris.

Hôtel Mansart

Beyond the modern lobby are immense, stately bedrooms with large mirrors and panelling picked out in gold. 5 rue des Capucines, 75001 Paris.

Hôtel Parc St-Severin

This hotel is included for its penthouse suite: chic, bright and surrounded by a fabulous roof terrace with spectacular views. 22 rue de la Parcheminerie, 75005 Paris.

Hôtel Montalembert

Choose between antique or high-tech furnishings in this sleek modern hotel. 3 rue Montalembert, 75007 Paris.

Hôtel Verneuil

In a charming street, this recently refurbished hotel aims to provide the atmosphere of an elegant private house. 8 rue de Verneuil, 75007 Paris.

Le Relais St-Germain

Cleverly mirrored and sleekly furnished as it is, the ground floor of this luxurious little hotel is cramped, so the spacious bedrooms come as an especially welcome surprise. These are offset by solid country antiques, deep sofas and rich fabrics. Breakfast is in a café that was a haunt of Hemingway and Picasso. 9 carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006 Paris.

Hôtel Le St-Grégoire

The interior of this tall townhouse has been designed with great flair, reflecting the passion of the owner’s wife, who scoured antique shops and markets for objets d’art. These furnish the pretty sitting room, from where the restful colour scheme leads upstairs to comfortable bedrooms. 43 rue de l’Abbé-Grégoire, 75006 Paris.

Hôtel Ritz Paris

Since César Ritz opened his hotel in 1898, its sumptuous luxury has attracted devotees as diverse as Proust, Hemingway and royalty. The spirit of opulence lives on in each of the five magnificent salons and in the ornate bedrooms. A superb new health club and cookery school ensure that it’s no anachronism. 15 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris.

Hôtel Le Ste-Beuve

This friendly hotel is not luxurious, but likes to cosset its guests and has a policy of upgrading them to a better room if one is free. Another draw is the delicious breakfast; it is served at any time of the day or night in the refined, cream-painted salon where a fire blazes on wintry days. 9 rue Ste-Beuve, 75006 Paris .

Northern France

The plains of Picardy, with their traditional inns and converted châteaux, are bordered to the north by the Ardennes forests and to the east by the mountains and hills of Vosges. Paris and its surroundings dominate the centre of the region, its hotels ranging from chic townhouses to the grand buildings of the large hotels. The Channel coast has its share of heavy industry and oil refineries, concentrated round Le Havre and Rouen, but close by lie the beautiful port of Honfleur, Bayeux with its memories of William the Conqueror’s invasion of England (and the more recent D-Day landings), and the lush farmland of the Pays d’Auge and La Suisse Normande, with châteaux, mills and half-timbered inns. To the west of the Channel port of Cherbourg lies the monastery island of Le Mont-St-Michel; here begins the more rugged landscape of Celtic Brittany, with its manors and seaside hotels.

Central France

We define this region as beginning to the south of the Ile de France, and stretching from Nantes at the mouth of the Loire in the west, to the Jura mountains in the east. The great châteaux of the Loire Valley, many of which were remodelled during the Renaissance, are almost always breathtaking, and not all just for looking at: two exquisite examples of places to stay are the Château de Noirieux at Briollay, (page 239) and the Hostellerie du Château de Bellecroix at Chagny (page 239). Burgundy stands out for the rustic buildings of the fragmented vineyards of the Côte d’Or; the religious showpieces at Vézelay, Fontenay and Cluny, and the splendid palaces of Dijon. Further east is Franche-Comté, with its alpine highlands, crystal rivers, and rolling farmland in the Saône valley.

 Southern France

 Poitou, to the north of the city of Bordeaux, and Aquitaine, stretching down to the western end of the Pyrenees at Biarritz, make up the final section of France’s Atlantic coastline. Mile upon mile of sandy beaches are backed by dunes and pine forests. The Romans left their imperial mark here – the great arch of Germanicus and the amphitheatre at Saintes are both worth a detour. Medieval pilgrims travelling to the shrine of St James at Santiago de Compostela left a legacy of Romanesque churches such as those at Poitiers and Parthenay. The vineyards of Bordeaux have kept the city prosperous for centuries. A number of the château hotels in this region, (such as the one at Pauillac, page 258), run their own wine appreciation courses. To the east lie the green, rolling hills, farms and manors of the Dordogne Valley and the caves and culinary delights of Périgord. The cave paintings at Lascaux are probably the most important in France – but if you prefer foie gras, walnuts and truffles, try Sarlat’s fabulous Saturday market. In the far southwest, the French Pyrenees take you into Basque country, offering spectacular scenery – and mountain activities as tiring or thrilling as anybody could want. Returning to your Basque inn, or perhaps to the Hôtel de la Reine Sancie at Sauveterre-de-Béarn (page 263), with its spectacular position on medieval arches above the Gave d’Oloron river, will make you glad you survived the day intact. Languedoc-Roussillon is squeezed in between the Mediterranean shore and the Massif Central range. Roussillon was Spanish until 1659, and the Fort de Salses still stands at the old border. Carcassonne is an amazingly well-restored medieval town and Nîmes still has much of the Roman about it. The Massif Central is an enigmatic area, wild and hard on the Grands Causses, gentle in the Limousin and spectacular where the Lot, Aveyron and Tarn leave the Aubrac mountains through rugged gorges. To the east lies the Rhône Valley and beyond are the French Alps with some traditional chalet hotels. Provence is nowadays almost too familiar to need much description. The saltmarshes of the Camargue and the resorts of the Côte d’Azur have, as a back-drop, a highly-coloured and scented hinterland, where the Romans who built the theatre (still in use) at Vaison-la-Romaine may well have found Bronze Age remains. Hotels have found their way into mas – the Provençal farmhouses – and into villas originally built for private pleasure.

FOOD AND DRINK

FRENCH COOKING is probably the subtlest, most varied and most imaginative in the world. It is not necessarily elaborate, but the care taken to choose, season and flavour the principal ingredients can lift dishes into the realms of the extraordinary. In the late 1980s and early 1990s, some gastronomes felt that French food had lost its edge, at any rate compared with the new cuisines of Britain, Australia and the US Pacific Rim. Nowadays, our impression is that French food is reinventing itself.

The range of styles is stupendous – in the north the coastal waters yield huge platters of fruits de mer, and travelling eastwards you find the ham, sausages, stout stews and tangy cheeses of Alsace. In the west the pork, cream and calvados of Normandy are neighbours to the Breton crêpes, seafood and lamb raised on the coastal salt marshes.

Moving southwest, the foie gras, truffles, confits and walnut oil of Périgord, the wine-based cookery of Bordeaux, and the shellfish and lobsters of Arcachon and Marennes eventually give way to the robust and often highly-spiced dishes of the Basque southwest. Lyon can claim to be the gastronomic centre of France: in this fortunate city, Bresse chicken, Charolais beef, wild fowl from the Dombes, smoked sausage and freshwater fish from Franche-Comté and the Jura join forces with a host of local cheeses such as Vacherin, Cantal and Fourme d’Ambert.

The south of France has the brightest palette of colours: in the markets, aubergines, courgettes, asparagus, huge tomatoes, peppers, peaches and cherries contrast with black olives, walnuts, braids of garlic and wild mushrooms. The basis of many a dish is lamb from the Camargue, or red mullet and red snapper – combined with conger eel and monkfish to make bouillabaisse, the king of fish soups. Entire books have been devoted to the wine of single French vineyards. All that can be said here is that prices range from the stratospheric to rock-bottom; and that it is a matter of pride for most restaurateurs to offer excellent value house wine (vin du patron) from the lower end of the scale. Do try them, if only to give your purse a rest. France has been listing and classifying wine production areas for nearly 200 years. There are three principal classifications: appellation contrôlée (AC), which guarantees origin and a certain standard, vin délimité de qualité supérieure (VDQS), which distinguish good wines of local interest; and vin de pays, which is the humblest grade of all.

Virtually all the best wineproducing areas are dominated by their rivers. The Marne and the topmost reaches of the Seine flow through Champagne; the Loire through the vineyards producing the dry whites of Muscadet in the west, and of Pouilly and Sancerre in the east, and the sweeter wines of Touraine and Anjou at the centre. The Charente cuts Cognac in half; the Dordogne graces Bergerac and then, like the Garonne, empties into the Gironde estuary near Bordeaux, where the great wines of the Médoc, St Émilion, Pomerol and Graves are produced. From east of the Burgundian capital of Beaune, the Saône flows almost due south through the Mâconnais to join the Rhône, which itself continues south through the rich red wine-producing areas between the cities of Lyon and Avignon.

BEDROOMS AND BATHROOMS

UNLESS OTHERWISE specified, a double room has a double bed (grand lit). If you want twin beds (deux lits) be sure to ask for them – there may be an extra charge. Specify clearly if you want your own bathroom (avec salle de bain en suite).

Bathrooms may not have a bath (une baignoire). If a shower (une douche) will not do, be sure to say so when booking. WEEKEND WEDDING parties can go on very noisily till dawn. It is worth asking if your booking will coincide with un mariage – and well worth revising your plans if it does. The national summer holidays start around 14 July and end on 31 August; if possible, avoid travelling around these dates, for obvious reasons.

Language

Most hotels have an English-speaker, or can find one at a pinch, but no matter how bad your French is, you will collect some goodwill by attempting to use it. If you are visiting Alsace-Lorraine, and you don’t know the word in French, try German.

Currency

Until recently, the French franc. From 1 January 2002, France switches over to the European euro (written ‘EUR’), made up of 100 cents.

Shops

Food shops tend to open at about 7am, close around noon for lunch, and reopen in the late afternoon until 7pm. Food shops often open on Sunday mornings but stay closed on Monday mornings. Other shops usually open 9am–6pm Mon–Sat, and, except for the supermarkets and hypermarkets, take a lunch break.

Tipping

A service charge is usually added in cafés and restaurants, but most French people leave a small tip at bars and 5 per cent at restaurants.

Telephoning

Phoning abroad from hotels can be very expensive. Some public telephones take coins, others take télécartes (50 or 120 unit phonecards from post offices, tabacs and some cafés). Post offices have cabines – booths where you can call first and pay afterwards.

All French telephone numbers have ten digits: a two-figure area prefix, followed by an eight-digit number. If phoning from within France, always include the full area prefix. To phone France from the UK, dial 00 33, then the phone number, omitting the initial zero from the area prefix; from the US, 011 33.

Public holidays

1 January; Easter Sunday and Monday; Ascension Day (sixth Thursday after Easter); Whit Monday (second Monday after Ascension Day); 1 May; 8 May; 14 July; 1 November; 11 November; 25 December.

USEFUL WORDS

Breakfast Petit déjeuner

Lunch Déjeuner

Dinner Dîner

Free room? Chambre libre?

How much? Combien?

A single Une chambre pour une personne

A double Une chambre pour deux personnes